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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Visoka Vrbanova špica / The Kot Valley - Visoka Vrbanova špica (Lojze Rekar route)

The Kot Valley - Visoka Vrbanova špica (Lojze Rekar route)

Starting point: The Kot Valley (950 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.4157°N 13.8977°E 
Path name: Lojze Rekar route
Time of walking: 5 h 10 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Ferrata: B/C
Difficulty of skiing: very demanding
Altitude difference: 1458 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1580 m
Map: Tiglav 1:25.000
Views: 75,526
Trip rating: 3 votes
Number of pictures: 60
Access to starting point:
We exit the Gorenjska motorway at the Hrušica exit and continue along the road in the direction of Kranjska Gora. Just a little before the village of Dovje, a road branches off to the left from the main road leading to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma). We continue along the road in the direction of the village of Radovna and the Krma and Kot valleys. The relatively steep road then takes us past the TNP sign, after which the road soon levels out and brings us to an intersection, where a gravel road branches off to the right into the Kot valley (straight ahead Radovna and Krma). We then follow this occasionally somewhat poorer road to the parking lot, where we also notice the mountain direction signs.
Path description:
From the end of the road we continue along the wider marked path in the direction of Staničev dom and Kredarica, which ascends gently through the forest. After a few minutes we arrive at the Kotarice gravel area, across which we cross transversely to the other side, where the path reappears.
This is followed by some gentle walking through the forest, after about half an hour of walking the path quickly becomes quite steep and, due to often quite slippery ground, also dangerous for slipping, especially on the descent, so extra caution is required on this section. On this part, we are helped on the more difficult places by a few pitons as well. Higher up the steepness eases and the path brings us to the spring Pri studenčku, which however dries up in dry days.
Here an unmarked path branches off to the left towards Macesnovec, we continue straight across the torrent, and after the torrent we cross another short secured but not particularly difficult place. This is followed by an ascent through a belt of dwarf pines, higher up we arrive in an increasingly rocky world, where we can already see a larger boulder nicely in front of us. Here our path is crossed quite inconspicuously by the PP path (Planica - Pokljuka path), while we ascend to the aforementioned boulder called Debeli kamen with increasingly beautiful views.
At Debeli kamen the dwarf pines occasionally end completely and we continue through an increasingly high-mountain world, where we mostly ascend on scree. On this section, looking back, a nice view opens up to Ladja (Ladja is a distinctive precipitous promontory or peak overgrown with dwarf pines that rises above the Kot valley), while we then ascend to a marked junction, where the climbing path to Vrbanove špice, or the Lojze Rekar path, branches off to the right.
We continue in the mentioned direction (left Dom Valentina Staniča and Rjavina) and already after a few meters the path turns right again, where with the help of some steel cables and pitons we cross steep rocky slopes below Vrbanove špice. Then we turn left and in a slight ascent we cross still quite steep slopes. Soon after that we turn left again and with the help of some protections we begin to ascend steeply on a slope partially overgrown with grass and dwarf pines. The path then turns slightly to the right and brings us to the ridge, where a view of Cmir opens up. Here we turn left and with the help of pitons and steel cables we begin to ascend along a steep and narrow ridge, which soon brings us to a junction. From the junction we head left (slightly right the path continues towards Visoka Vrbanova špica) and with the help of some pitons and bolts we reach the summit of Spodnja Vrbanova Špica. The summit also has a stamp and a summit book.
From the summit of Spodnja Vrbanova špica we then return back to the junction where we follow the signs for Staničev dom. The path ahead in a slight descent bypasses the summit of Spodnja Vrbanova špica on the northern side and brings us via a fairly wide ledge back to the ridge. From here we have only a few meters to Plesišče (2244 m) across which a marked path does not lead, but it is well marked with cairns. Plesišče is a large flat slab from which there is a wonderful view of Spodnja and Visoka Vrbanova špica, Rjavina and Cmir. Plesišče is interesting also because in the middle of the narrow and precipitous ridge of Vrbanove špice no one expects such a large flat slab.
The path then runs along the ridge and first ascends slightly, then with the help of steel cables and pitons descends to a smaller natural window through which Cmir can be nicely seen. From here we then climb with the help of pitons over a slightly overhanging chimney, which is followed by a descent that is also slightly overhanging on a short section. Then we ascend through steep rock, which via a well-secured narrow and exposed ledge brings us to another window. Here we again begin to ascend with this time somewhat more numerous pitons. This is followed by an ascent with the help of steel cables through broken rock to a grassy slope below the summit. From here we have only a few minutes of easy walking to the summit of Visoka Vrbanova špica.

Starting point - Pri studencu 1:25, Pri studencu - Debeli kamen 1:20, Debeli kamen - turnoff for Vrbanove špice 0:30, Turnoff for Vrbanove špice - Spodnja Vrbanova špica 0:45, Spodnja Vrbanova špica - Plesišče 0:15, Plesišče - Visoka Vrbanova špica 0:55.
On the way: Pri studencu (1330m), Debeli kamen (1810m), Odcep za Vrbanove špice (2005m), Odcep na Spodnjo Vrbanovo špico (2279m), Spodnja Vrbanova špica (2299m), Plesišče (2248m)
Pictures:
The Kot Valley - Visoka Vrbanova špica1
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