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Mountain ranges / Karawanks / Vertatscha/Vrtača / Tinčkova koča - Vertatscha/Vrtača (on NE ridge)

Tinčkova koča - Vertatscha/Vrtača (on NE ridge)

Starting point: Tinčkova koča (1070 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.4228°N 14.1991°E 
Path name: on NE ridge
Time of walking: 4 h
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1111 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1111 m
Map: Stol in Begunjščica 1:25000
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 14,577
Trip rating: 4 votes
Number of pictures: 13
Access to starting point:
From the highway Ljubljana - Jesenice take the exit Lesce and follow the road ahead in the direction of Žirovnica and Jesenice. After a few km of driving, we will come to an intersection, where the road to Žirovnica and Moste branches off to the right (from the direction of Jesenice left). Only a few meters ahead at the next intersection we turn left to Moste (right Žirovnica). Further we drive past the monument to fallen fighters, where the road starts to ascend the hill under the railway track. At the top of the hill we turn right (at the sign Vila Karin), we continue towards Završniško jezero and Valvasorjev dom. The road then flattens and brings us to an intersection, where the road towards Valvasorjev dom branches off to the left, we continue straight on the initially still asphalted road. The road soon becomes macadam, and we follow it approximately 5 km to the parking lot near Tinčkova koča. The road in the upper part is often in quite bad condition, so we can park earlier, for example at the end of the mountain pasture Pri Žagi, where the road turns into the forest again, extending the path by 15 minutes.
Path description:
From Tinčkova koča follow the marked path towards Dom pri izviru Završnice, from there continue on the marked path towards Zelenica. When 5 minutes from Dom pri izviru Završnice the valley widens and flattens, turn left and through forest and dwarf pines come to the marked path Zelenica - Stol. Follow it in the direction of Stol to the right branch of the path upwards through dwarf pines into the cirque Suho rušje. Continue on the path past boulders to the head of the cirque. On the saddle Žleb, turn left and below the wall of Zelenjak cross to the notch between Zelenjak and Vrtača. Some initial crumbly edges avoid slightly to the left, then along the ridge reach the foot of the wall. Along the distinct ramp/slope climb right upwards to the barrier. Here awaits the most difficult part, from the ramp straight upwards climb next to the larger rock block on our right side (for the left hand there somehow are no good holds) and above it through some easier crumbly terrain to the left upwards reach the ridge edge.(cairn) Upwards await some unpleasant meters of very steep and crumbly climbing (don't go too much to the right), above the threshold the main difficulties end.
In less steep terrain to the right upwards reach more compact rock and over a short steep jump climb to the edge. Along the edge (harder, below retreat a little to the left side) or right of it (more supported) soon climb to the summit shoulder. To the top of Vrtača awaits an easier, but crumbly ridge finish.
Difficulties are II.(-III.) grade
Route is not equipped.
On the way: Dom pri izviru Završnice (1425m), Pautz/Zelenjak (2024m), Selenitza/Palec (2026m)
Pictures:
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača1
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača2
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača3
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača4
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača5
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača6
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača7
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača8
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača9
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača10
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača11
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača12
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača13
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