Vent - Wildspitze (normal path past Breslauer Hütte and via Mitterkarjoch)

Access to starting point:
From Ljubljana, we drive on the highway past Salzburg in the direction towards Munich. At the multilevel junction Dreieck Inntal we turn onto the road A93 in the direction of Innsbruck/Kufstein/Brenner. Upon returning to Austria we continue on the highway A12 past Innsbruck, Telfs and Mötz, and then at exit 123 near Ötztal Bahnhof we turn towards B186/B171/Ötztal/Haiming. We follow the road B186, which runs into the Ötztal valley, past the settlements Oetz, Längenfeld and the center of the valley, Sölden. Just a few kilometers ahead from Sölden at the village Zwieselstein we turn onto a steeply ascending, but comfortable asphalt road towards Vent. In the tourist settlement Vent we park on one of the numerous (paid) parking lots; best at the parking lot near the bottom station of the chairlift Wildspitze. Parking fee in Vent in the year 2020 was 5 euros/day.

Route description:
From Vent we go on the path which roughly follows the route of the chairlift Wildspitze in the direction of the mountain pasture Stablein (tip: in summer it is possible to take the chairlift to the Stablein restaurant, which shortens the access by about an hour). Modestly marked, but obvious and wide path in large zigzags leads through mountain meadows, until it ends at the road at the restaurant on the mountain pasture Stablein.
Near the restaurant we turn onto a somewhat narrower, but quite comfortable trail, which with numerous markers ascends very gently towards Breslauer Hütte. Not far below the hut with the help of a small bridge we cross the glacial stream Rofenkar and follow the trail, which ascends somewhat more decisively, on the final slope to Breslauer Hütte. From Vent to the hut it is less than three hours of walking.

At Breslauer Hütte we follow the signposts for Wildspitze, which direct us towards the northeast on the (initially still marked) trail, which relatively steeply ascends towards the scree valley between the massifs Wildspitze and Brochkogls. The trail in a gentle ascent crosses above a smaller pond, then gently continues through the middle of the glacial valley.
During the crossing towards the heart of the valley, which hosts the remains of the once extensive glacier Mitterkarferner, the markers disappear, but individual cairns will periodically still guide us. After approximately half an hour of moderate ascent towards the southern wall of Hinterer Brochkogl, the path, which we now sense more than see, turns towards the northeast and begins to ascend more decisively towards the wall below the pass Mitterkarjoch. Warning: in case of fog in the last part of the ascent through the valley it is often difficult to follow the optimal direction. In this situation it is good to stay further north (higher) below the walls that surround the glacial valley.

Through very crumbly terrain we ascend towards the rocky barrier below Mitterkarjoch. In the last part of the ascent through the valley snow usually remains all year; for safe crossing of the steep snow tongue we need full winter equipment. In the final slope individual fixed protections indicate the right path, which are especially useful when icy.
After approaching the wall below Mitterkarjoch the technically most demanding part of the tour awaits us: we must climb a relatively short ferrata, which steeply ascends over the wall to the pass. The secured path is hardest right at the beginning, when with initial moves we overcome a vertical - on a short section even slightly overhanging - step (difficulty C). After that the path remains moderately demanding and quite exposed for some time (to B/C), higher it becomes progressively easier (to B, mostly A/B). After approximately half an hour of ascending the ferrata the steel cables bring us to a rocky edge, behind which we step onto the pass Mitterkarjoch (3470 m), where a vast view opens up over the extensive glacier Taschachferner. Here we prepare for the glacier crossing.

From Mitterkarjoch we continue on the path over the glacier in the direction towards (north)east. Since the ascent to Wildspitze is popular in all seasons, we will likely benefit from reliable tracks, otherwise we (initially gradually) ascend north of the cliffs that drop towards the approach valley. Soon after the summit ridge of the south head of Wildspitze first reveals itself before us, south of a smaller rocky promontory in the middle of the glacier we turn towards the southeast. We follow the glacier path to the foot of the rocky final ridge that leads to Wildspitze. In usual conditions the ascent on the glacier takes approximately one hour.
Warning: although the tracks of predecessors usually avoid glacier crevasses (or bypass them) as best as possible, caution during the crossing is certainly not superfluous; Taschachferner is after all a quite dangerous, crevassed glacier.

To the summit another approximately fifteen minutes of ascent await us on a fairly crumbly ridge, which however is quite wide and undemanding in the larger part. Just below the summit some more demanding rocks await us, which we must climb in slightly precipitous terrain (I). At the summit a large cross and extensive panorama await us.

Even though technically it is not too demanding, the ascent to Wildspitze is a long, strenuous and complex high-alpine tour that does not spare objective dangers (falling rocks in the area of the valley below the walls of Brochkogls and Wildspitze; steep passages that are icy for most of the year; glacier crevasses during the crossing of Taschachferner). Despite the popularity of the route, orientation - especially in adverse weather conditions - is relatively demanding. For safe passage of the Taschachferner glacier roped walking and use of full glacier gear are required. Although the secured path at Mitterkarjoch is quite short, it is locally quite demanding and exposed, above all often icy - after all it takes place entirely above 3400 meters - therefore I recommend self-belaying as well.
Due to the length and large elevation gain along the route I recommend overnighting at Breslauer Hütte, while being aware that the hut is often fully booked in the high season.

Along the route: Panoramarestaurant Stablein (2365m), Breslauer Hütte (2844m), Mitterkarjoch (3470m)

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