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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Prisank / Prisojnik / Vršič - Prisank / Prisojnik (Kopiščarjeva pot)

Vršič - Prisank / Prisojnik (Kopiščarjeva pot)

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Starting point: Vršič (1611 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4336°N 13,7435°E
Route name: Kopiščarjeva pot
Walking time: 3 h 50 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Via ferrata: B/C
Elevation gain: 936 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1025 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 270.272
 20 people like this post
Number of photos: 71
Number of comments: 274
Access to starting point:
From Kranjska Gora we drive towards Bovec or vice versa, but only as far as the Vršič pass, where we park.
Route description:
From the parking lot we head to the road in the direction of Trenta and at the end of the parking lot we arrive at a small crossroads, where we continue left on the side road, which after a short ascent brings us to Tičarjev dom na Vršiču.
From Tičarjev dom we continue along the macadam road next to which there are signs for Poštarski dom and along which we begin to ascend moderately through scenic slopes. With a view of the surrounding peaks, we quickly arrive at a marked junction.
At the junction we follow the signs »Prisojnik (through the window)«. The path ahead first begins to descend a little and starts crossing the slope towards the walls of Prisank. From the left the path from Erjavčeva koča then joins us, a little before entering the climbing part of the path the path from Sovna glava also joins from the right.
Already at the beginning of the climbing part of the path it becomes clear that this path is not for everyone. The path first crosses the wall to the left along a steel cable, then turns right steeply upwards. For quite some time we then ascend steeply with the help of steel cables and numerous pitons. The slope then becomes gentler and after a short ascent through dwarf pines a wonderful view towards Ajdovska deklica opens up. The path here turns slightly to the right and begins to ascend somewhat steeper again along a rocky slope. Occasionally we are helped by some bolts and steel cables. This is followed by crossing to the left and soon we are in front of the entry into the most difficult part of the path. In front of us is a 15-meter-high chimney. With the help of numerous pitons we begin to climb the chimney, which is overhanging in some places. This is followed by climbing on pitons through such a narrow passage that we have to take off our backpack and push it in front of us. We continue to ascend steeply along the steel cable and then reach somewhat less steep slopes, which bring us to a junction, where the path from Koča na Gozdu joins us from the left.
We continue slightly to the right upwards and some easier climbing follows along broken rock, mostly without protection. Soon we will see Prednje okno v Prisanku on the right side. When ascending towards the window we must be quite careful as the path is quite crumbly and full of scree. In early summer there is also still snow here.
From the window we then climb steeply upwards with the help of numerous pitons and then join the Ridge path on Prisank. At the junction we continue to the left, however all difficulties are not over yet. The path turns left and ascends along a somewhat exposed slope along a steel cable towards the ridge. Walking along the ridge is then somewhat easier, but at some places still quite exposed. Later the Slovenian and Jubilee paths join us from the right. Then there is only a short ascent and soon we reach the very panoramic summit.

Kopiščarjeva pot to Prisank is suitable only for experienced mountaineers, many mountaineers even rate it as the most demanding secured climbing path on the territory of Slovenia (before the construction of extremely demanding sports via ferratas).

The descent is recommended via the Slovenian path.

Vršič - razpotje pod Bavho 0:15, razpotje pod Bavho - razpotje pod Sovno glavo 0:10, razpotje pod Sovno glavo - vstop v plezalni del poti 0:10, vstop v plezalni del poti - Nad kaminom 1:15, Nad kaminom - Prednje okno 1:00, Prednje okno - Prisojnik 1:00.
route map - Prisank / Prisojnik
Along the route: Tičarjev dom na Vršiču (1618m), Razpotje pod Bavho (1680m), Razpotje pod Sovno glavo (1589m), Kopiščarjev vstop (1626m), Nad kaminom (1978m), Prednje okno (2259m), Razpotje pod vrhom Prisojnika (2504m)
The trip can be extended to the following destinations: Križ
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
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Discussion about the trip Vršič - Prisank / Prisojnik (Kopiščarjeva pot)
Show older messages
ppegan5. 08. 2020
Yes, Kopiščarjeva is more demanding than the mentioned paths, as the climbing section is longer, and in the most difficult part, in the chimney, the path is set almost vertically or even slightly overhanging, which surprised me greatly. You get scared already through that narrow passage, but up to there it's quite tense. When you get through the window, at least 1 hour of walking along the ridge awaits you, which also requires a firm and secure step. If I'm not mistaken, Kopiščarjeva path is currently closed due to damage to the safety equipment (I read it this morning).
julius5. 08. 2020
As for this path, read this.
https://www.pzs.si/novice.php?pid=14466
felix6. 08. 2020
On 26.7. I was on this path, but I didn't notice any deficiencies. Has there been any damage in the meantime?
julius6. 08. 2020
Whoever is not satisfied with PZS should also check PD Jesenice, which maintains these paths.
http://www.hribi.net/novica/kopiscarjeva_in_jubilejna_pot_na_prisojnik_zaprti!/3129
felix6. 08. 2020
Julius, did you read my sentence properly? I am not claiming there is not enough information, just asking if there have been any damages in the meantime!
Marjetica610. 08. 2020
Hello,

This Saturday we went via Kopiščarjeva, as there was no sign at the board below indicating the path is closed eek There were already two ahead of us, about 10 behind us. In between, one peg was pulled out in the middle of the cable, and also at two spots two slightly downward-turned pegs where you step.. But nothing critical, reached the window without issue.
Just as we arrived at the top, someone 'installed' a notice that the path is closed jezik
..back via Slovenska.. which we would have anyway velik nasmeh
primozg8. 09. 2020
On Saturday 5.9. on this path, all protections OK. Path beautiful. Pictures and description at https://gorskimoz.wordpress.com/2020/09/08/prisank-ali-prisojnik/
TilenP12. 09. 2020
Today on this path to Prisojnik. It seems the path is already fixed, the safety gear is OK, some cables look brand new. But it's true there are notices all over Vršič saying the path is closed. Probably because the notice also warns about the closed Jubilee path.
12a3bc16. 07. 2021 10:00:33
Does anyone have info on the current snow conditions on Kopiščarjeva? big grinbig grin
edokrnic12. 08. 2021 08:59:12
Wonderful day on Prisank.

https://www.lukazoja.si/?p=13236
Hribovc8226. 08. 2021 19:19:39
Yesterday traversed the path. It is excellently secured, the weather troubled us a bit with fog.

A short video nasmeh

https://youtu.be/uXEy4MVdvhU
denis29116. 09. 2021 13:08:07
Walked (climbed) Kopiščarjeva pot yesterday (5.9.2021). Top-notch and really demanding, but beautiful path. I could add that quite a bit of arm strength is needed. Safe steps to all!nasmeh
ločanka6. 09. 2021 13:57:31
Sometimes we pushed the backpack in front of us, because on the back it didn't work on one ledgenasmeh. But does that still apply today?
dprapr7. 09. 2021 07:28:39
That about pushing backpacks we've always heard in the past. Also for that passage under Kočna. Why it was so, I don't know.
I assume mainly those with oversized “wardrobes”, uncomfortable backpacks full of food and multi-day gear had issues. Back then hikes weren't one-day trips. No money for “luxury” in huts either. So we carried a lot along. On some tours we could only dream of abundant drinks.
Darxta7. 09. 2021 09:04:26
Ločanka, that section is still so narrow and if you wriggle through, you need to remove the backpack.
You can go that section on the side without removing the backpack, but then it's a bit more acrobatic.
LP
dragon7. 09. 2021 17:26:34
It's just like Darxta says. I crawled through here just yesterday. On my side with a 25 l backpack. Having to push the backpack in front of me would seem even harder to me.
12a3bc9. 06. 2022 12:59:50
Is the path snow-free yet?velik nasmeh
RIRO20. 06. 2022 12:24:37
Hi, is there any snow on the path? What are the conditions?
LISAC3. 08. 2022 16:44:04
Hello. Does anyone know the condition of the trail to Prisank? As far as I could understand, officially only Hanzova, Kopiščarjeva, Jubilejna and the southern descent are closed, the others are normally passable? Thanks in advance and safe stepsnasmeh
pohodnik3333. 08. 2022 19:55:50
https://www.hribi.net/trenutne_razmere/slo/prisojnik/1/691

On Sunday went up Kopiščarjeva route, then along Jubilejna to Razor, Planja,..

Trail normally passable.

Regards,
LISAC3. 08. 2022 20:27:26
pohodnik333 thanks.
G3420. 11. 2022 17:17:43
Does anyone perhaps know if there is a trail to Prisojnik via Ajdovska deklica?
BorStenar4. 12. 2022 15:18:18
And check the book "VRŠIČ CLIMBING GUIDE" where over that carved face there are at least 5 ascents describedeek
Besides, I don't mean "paths," but pathless climbing routes.
I don't know if any of them leads to Prisojnik, but you can lead itnasmeh
BorStenar4. 12. 2022 17:33:24
By the way, which path do you recommend for descent more:
Ridge or Slovenian path?
rokeg4. 12. 2022 17:38:46
The Slovenian one is technically easier. To me it seems very airy. The ridge one is technically more demanding, but a bit less exposed, in my opinion. Opinions differ quite a bit here. If you look at descriptions of harder paths, they recommend descent via the Slovenian one.
G3429. 04. 2023 16:28:28
Is this path suitable for beginners? We've already been to ferrata Mojstrana, probably we'll go to ferrata Hvadnik and Dobršnik after that. Will we be experienced enough then to go on this path to Prisojnik or Prisank?
velik nasmehzmeden
biba29. 04. 2023 16:39:46
No.
Danak16. 07. 2023 09:23:36
Hello,

How much harder is this path, e.g. compared to Hanzova on MM? Hanzova was no problem for me, now Prisojnik tempts me. Or do you recommend something before that? Thanks nasmeh
Enka16. 07. 2023 12:51:51
These are subjective questions of course, but anyway. I can share my view on both. Technically Prisojnik is harder, more vertical, some slightly overhanging sections, both are exposed. But there are enough aids/protections in the climbing part and if MM posed no difficulty for you, this one shouldn't either. To me the key difference is that on MM there's nothing like the continuation on Prisojnik from the window onwards, along the ridge. There it's gravelly in places, protections not everywhere, and exposure is really quite intense in spots. Personally for me this part (especially mentally) was much harder than the climbing section, which was no issue. Kopiščarjeva is also noticeably longer than Hanzova on MM.
Danak17. 07. 2023 07:41:46
Well yes, I know they are subjective, but at least I have some more info nasmeh path under my feet, and it'll be fine. Thanks velik nasmeh
cky2. 10. 2023 19:07:58
Nice greetings! I'm wondering if anyone from experience can give a comparison of Kopiščarjeva pot with the path to Stol via ferrata from the Austrian side... Thanks
funnyboy2. 10. 2023 20:01:04
Kopiščarjeva pot is more difficult, the hardest sections are steeper and more exposed than on the climbing path to Stol.
Ivanhoe10. 07. 2024 14:06:19
On 6. 7. 2024 my cousin and I climbed Kopiščarjeva pot. The path was very nice and full of challenges. Protections super. Just one snow patch right below the window but you can pass under it.
Lp.
tomazsss5. 08. 2024 17:38:43
Hi,
Does anyone know the path that connects Kopiščarjeva and Hanzova? I'm interested in exactly where the junction from Kopiščarjeva is and whether it joins Hanzova below or above the snowfield?
Thanks!
ben5. 08. 2024 18:45:58
The junction from Kopiščarjeva path is a little above the chimney. The connection is above the snowfield.
Hribolazec8130. 08. 2024 16:56:00
What's the condition of the Kopiščarjeva trail, are there any snow patches left on the path?
garmont30. 08. 2024 19:26:06
No.
kalc29. 10. 2024 13:08:19
Has anyone been up there recently? Is there any snow on the path?
Jazbec1330. 10. 2024 17:44:48
I was there today, no snow
kdekleva3. 07. 2025 10:56:41
How much snow?
mirank3. 07. 2025 19:31:07
What if we got used to posting and also checking under current conditions? Everything is written there.zavijanje z očmi
lepmackon117. 08. 2025 18:32:57
Does anyone know if it's possible to cross after that vertical section from Kopiščarjeva to Hanzova (so as not to need an ice axe) and if it's sensible?
Janez Seliškar7. 08. 2025 20:08:23
If you had looked at the hiking map, this question wouldn't have been necessary.
You still have time to do that.
lepmackon118. 08. 2025 10:24:13
No worries, I checked. My question referred to whether it makes sense or is worth it (to me it seems this traverse is meant for the opposite direction, i.e. from Hanzova to Kopiščarjeva). I've never been to Hanzova and that's why I'm interested. I don't know why some answer purely informative questions so arrogantly. Regards
Janez Seliškar8. 08. 2025 11:03:48
Because you decide yourself what is sensible for you.
lepmackon118. 08. 2025 12:20:15
I wrote under current conditions about the snow in that section where you can reach from Kopiščarjeva. Thanks
mnbvc7. 09. 2025 23:41:27
how is the path compared to Velika koroska baba via the climbing path and korosko rinko
asdf8. 09. 2025 00:03:37
The chimney is more exposed than anything on the climbing path to Velika Baba or on the path from Jezersko to Koroška Rinka (I don't know the path from Okrešlj), but it is well protected. In addition, there are some exposed sections without protection, but as far as I remember, that's also on the path to Koroška Rinka. However, Kopiščarjeva pot has less scree than the other two.
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