20 Years Ago Slovenes Conquered Annapurna

On this day 20 years ago, April 29, 1995, Davo and Drejc Karničar became the first Slovenes to reach the summit of Annapurna (8091 m) and then became the first in the world to ski down its north face via the French Route, which was also the last, fourteenth Slovenian eight-thousander conquered. Slovenian alpinists ascended all fourteen highest peaks of the world in 20 years, as this year also marks the 40th anniversary of the ascent of the first Slovenian eight-thousander, Makalu in 1975.



This long-desired and eagerly awaited success was brought by the sixth Slovenian expedition to Annapurna. The nine-member expedition of the Alpine Association of Slovenia, which aimed to repeat the route of the first ascenders, ski from the summit, and possibly attempt a first ascent in alpine style, was led by Tone Škarja; its members were Viki Grošelj, Tomaž Humar, Andrej (Drejc) Karničar, Davo Karničar, Janko Oprešnik, doctor Damijan Meško, Stipe Božić (Croatia), and Carlos Carsolio (Mexico). The ascent via the French Route was marked by avalanche danger, strong winds, and low temperatures, but this did not diminish the team's extraordinary motivation to conquer the last eight-thousander that Slovenes had not yet ascended.



On April 29, 1995, from Camp IV at 7400 meters, brothers Davo and Drejc Karničar set off for the summit along with the expedition's associate member, Mexican Carlos Carsolio. At 9 a.m., all three reached the summit of Annapurna I (8091 m); an hour later, the Karničar brothers began their risky ski descent and reached base camp the same day. This was the first uninterrupted ski descent from the summit of Annapurna, and thus Slovenes became the ninth country in the world to summit all 14 eight-thousanders. On May 6, Tomaž Humar also reached the summit.



"I remember the events of 20 years ago with great pride and satisfaction that my brother Davo and I caught the last train of Slovenian classic Himalaism. Wonderful company of excellent, actually legendary Slovenian alpinists (Viki Grošelj, Tomaž Humar, Janko Oprešnik), supported by international participation (Carlos Carsolio and Stipe Božić). Excellent leadership by Tone Škarja. Attentive, almost fatherly care by doctor Damijan Meško. Excellent functioning of the brotherly rope team. The summit and then the unforgettable descent. A result that still counts today, as no one else has skied from the summit since then. And there hasn't been any particular crowding on Annapurna in all this time. In just over 60 years, just over 200 ascents to the summit," recalls Drejc Karničar and adds: "Mountaineers often ask me if I regret losing fingers on Annapurna. Never. Not for a moment. I wouldn't trade the invaluable life experience that has marked and filled my life. Thank God for Annapurna!"



Davo Karničar gained momentum on Annapurna for his subsequent skiing feats and thus in October 2000 became the first person on Earth to successfully ski uninterrupted from the summit of Everest to base camp, and in 2006, after skiing Mt. Vinson, the highest peak of Antarctica, became the first person to successfully ski all the highest peaks of the seven continents. He is currently skiing in Norway, as at the end of June he is heading to the Karakoram with the goal of skiing Gasherbrum I eight-thousander, which is preparation for skiing the second highest mountain in the world, 8611-meter-high K2, next year.



"The last eight-thousander we lacked to complete the set of fourteen was Annapurna. None resisted us as much as this one; from 1983 to the final success, there were as many as six expeditions. An interesting paradox is that the French succeeded on the first attempt in 1950, and similarly the British in 1970 with the first ascent of the south face. However, with the first complete ski descent by Davo and Andrej Karničar, we Slovenes also added our share of primacy to the mountain. The success was complemented by Tomaž Humar, which was his greatest high-altitude achievement. With this ascent, we closed the necklace of eight-thousanders from Makalu (1975) to Annapurna 20 years later, mostly via first ascents," illuminates an important chapter in Slovenian and world alpinist history by the leader of this and several other Himalayan expeditions, Tone Škarja.



This year also marks 40 years since the first Slovenian ascent of an eight-thousander. The expedition led by Aleš Kunaver climbed the south face of 8463-meter-high Makalu via a first ascent route in October 1975 and with this achievement placed Slovenia alongside the Himalayan superpowers. The summit was reached by as many as seven climbers with exceptional support from the other expedition members: Stane Belak, Marjan Manfreda (without supplemental oxygen), Janko Ažman, Nejc Zaplotnik, Viki Grošelj, Ivč Kotnik, and Janez Dovžan. The ascent still ranks among the greatest achievements of world Himalayan climbing today and was an excellent foundation and incentive for further Slovenian successes in the world's highest mountaineering.



Slovenian alpinists ascended the 14 highest peaks of the world in 20 years, mostly via first ascent routes. In 1975, Marjan Manfreda and Stane Belak were the first Slovenes to stand on the eight-thousander Makalu (8463 m); Manfreda made the ascent without supplemental oxygen, which was then the world altitude record. Two years later, Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik reached the summit of Gasherbrum I (8068 m). As the first Slovenes, Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik stood on the world's highest peak, Everest (8848 m), in 1979. Grošelj ascended Manaslu (8163 m) in 1984 together with Croat Stipe Božić. Bogdan Biščak and Viki Grošelj ascended Broad Peak (8047 m) in 1986, and the next day the success was complemented by the first Slovenian woman on an eight-thousander, Marija Štremfelj. That same year, Gasherbrum II (8035 m) became the sixth eight-thousander conquered by Slovenian alpinists Bogdan Biščak, Viki Grošelj, Pavle Kozjek, and Andrej Štremfelj. Marjan Kregar and Iztok Tomazin stood on Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in 1987; the latter conquered Cho Oyu (8201 m) a year later. In 1989, Pavle Kozjek and Andrej Štremfelj conquered Shishapangma (8046 m). A year later, Marija Frantar and Jože Rozman reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8125 m), the tenth Slovenian eight-thousander; that same year, Tomo Česen made a first solo ascent to the summit of Lhotse (8516 m). In 1991, Marko Prezelj and Andrej Štremfelj climbed a first ascent route in the south face of Kangchenjunga (8598 m); two days later, Grošelj stood on the main summit of Kangchenjunga (8586 m) together with Croat Božić. In 1993, Zvonko Požgaj and Viki Grošelj reached K2 (8611 m) via the classic route without supplemental oxygen, which was the thirteenth eight-thousander overall, but also the first in independent Slovenia. In 1995, Davo and Drejc Karničar became the first Slovenes to reach the summit and then the first in the world to ski the north face of Annapurna I (8091 m). This was also the last, fourteenth Slovenian eight-thousander conquered.