BWSC Osp 2026 - Memorial to Janez Jeglič - Johan
27.03.2026
In memory of the master of classic, sport, and ice climbing, the Memorial to Janez Jeglič - Johan will come to life again after 13 years: speed climbing the 100-meter route with top-rope belaying in the Magična goba (7c) route in Osp.
Date: May 7–9, 2026
Location: Osp, Velika stena
Organizer: Društvo za gorsko kulturo (in collaboration with AO Domžale)
The competition will be organized as part of the Vikendi na robu events, a series of active, tourist, and social events organized by Zavod za mladino, kulturo in turizem Koper.
Description: The competition is unique, outside the frameworks and standards of artificial wall competitions; the large Osp wall is also unique, enabling this with its length and overhang. It is speed climbing a 100-meter route with top-rope belaying (BWSC = Big Wall Speed Climbing), which ensures complete safety, while the climbing speed gives the event attractiveness. The competition will be in men's and women's categories.
Climbing route: Magična goba (7c)
Competitors: Some climbers who have competed in the past will be directly invited to the event; the remaining places will be filled through a selection process.
Belaying: The organizer provides belaying during training, selection, and the final competition. Climbing without the organizer's belay team will not be permitted for safety reasons.
Schedule:
Thursday, May 7: technical preparation of the route, afternoon training possible.
Friday, May 8: training and selection of competitors' quota.
Saturday, May 9:
> at 10:00, final: 10 men and 6 women,
> at 19:00: announcement, award ceremony, social evening with screening of the film Riders of the Storm.
Prizes: All finalists will receive prizes.
Registrations: Interested parties should send registration by April 20 to: silvo.karo@gmail.com.
In it, they should state their experience with speed climbing and note that they must be able to climb the route in less than 20 minutes.
Who was Janez Jeglič - Johan?
One of the most prominent world alpinists of his generation. His exceptional path ended tragically in 1997 on Nuptse, but his deeds in alpinism remain.
Top achievements and milestones
• Versatility; he was a master of classic, sport, and ice climbing.
• He participated in numerous expeditions to North and South America and the Himalaya, where his ascents pushed the boundaries of the possible.
• Together with Franček Knez and Silvo Karo, he pioneered free climbing and difficult first ascents; with Karo, he was the first to climb a route of IX- difficulty.
• In 1990, he succeeded in climbing a first ascent in the west face of Bagirathi III, reached the summit of Mount Everest, and climbed a sport climbing route of X difficulty.
The competition in memory of Janez Jeglič - Johan took place from 1998 to 2013.
Year, location > winner and winner (female)
1998, artificial wall in Domžale > Tomaž Valjavec and Natalija Gros
1999, Mišja peč > Jure Golob and Martina Čufar
2000, Mišja peč > Uroš Perko and Natalija Gros
2001, Mišja peč > Franci Jenstrle and Natalija Gros
2002, Osp > Luka Zazvonil and Martina Čufar
2003, Črni Kal > Franci Jenstrle and Tina Di Batista
2004, Osp > Franci Jenstrle and Betka Galičič
2005, Mišja peč > Franci Jenstrle and Metka Jug
2006, Mišja peč > Matej Sova and Maja Šuštar
2007, Osp, velika stena - smer Goba > Franci Jenstrle and Lučka Franko
2008, Osp, velika stena - smer Goba > Klemen Bečan and Martina Čufar
2009, Osp, velika stena - smer Goba > Klemen Bečan
2010, Osp, velika stena - smer Goba > Matej Sova and Lučka Franko
2011, Osp, velika stena - smer Goba > Matej Sova and Martina Čufar
2012, Osp, velika stena - smer Goba > Domen Škofic and Martina Čufar
2013, Osp, velika stena - smer Goba > Klemen Bečan and Maja Šuštar
