Cleverly Tackling a Sour Hiking Season

The sour weather this summer certainly put a sour smile on the faces of many hikers and hut managers, but they,

despite lower attendance at mountain huts during the "pickling season", remained faithful to their mission. Guests – this year there is an even more noticeable increase in foreign hikers – are not attracted only with sauerkraut, but generally rely on a variety of tasty mountain food, and in addition to established promotional approaches, they are taking more innovative ones: from improved hospitality offerings and organized transport from the destination back to the starting point, to classical music concerts in the hut and the development of a new climbing area not far from the mountain hut. The Alpine Association of Slovenia will in the future pay even greater attention to promoting hiking abroad and try to adapt to the changed habits of domestic visitors.

The summer hiking season, which runs from 15 July to 15 September and attracts the most hikers to the mountains, has this year been marred by capricious weather. Nevertheless, more than a million visitors visit the Slovenian mountains annually, with a network of over 1,660 marked trails totalling 9,616 kilometres across Slovenia available to them. The Alpine Association of Slovenia is thus one of the largest and most massive non-governmental voluntary organisations in the Republic of Slovenia, with nearly 60,000 members, representing a good 2.8 percent of the total population. A considerable part of the Slovenian hiking population also headed to the Slovenian mountains this summer, but most, due to frequent precipitation, unfavourable weather forecasts and snow conditions in the high mountains, opted for very short day visits to easier and safer accessible peaks in the mid-mountains. The number of foreign visitors is increasing year by year; with pre-planned holidays they pay less attention to the weather and this year significantly contributed to the activity in mountain huts – according to hut managers, they even saved the summer hiking season in the high mountains. Across Slovenia, there is a noticeable increase in visitors from the Netherlands and Belgium; tradition is maintained by visitors from Austria, Italy, Croatia, Germany and the Czech Republic, while Slovenian mountain huts have also extended hospitality to hikers from Egypt, Israel, Canada, New Zealand, Australia and Japan.

Slovenian mountaineering clubs manage 177 mountain huts, shelters and bivouacs. Some huts – mainly high-mountain ones – close their doors already in mid-September, while lower-lying and more easily accessible ones welcome hikers deep into autumn or all year round. Assessments of this year's hiking season were provided by the managers or tenants of Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih, Gomiščkovo zavetišče na Krnu, Kranjska koča na Ledinah, Koča na Klemenči jami pod Ojstrico, Dom na Uršlji gori, Planinski dom na Kumu, Tumova koča na Slavniku, Dom na Lubniku and Koča na Blegošu, who also spoke about visits by domestic and foreign hikers, their equipment and ways of attracting visitors. The Alpine Association of Slovenia is aware, in light of the poor hiking season, that even greater attention must be paid to promoting hiking and mountain huts abroad and to adapting to the changed habits of domestic visitors.

As emphasised by Jure Brečko, manager of Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih (2071 m, PD Radeče), the popular mountain hut, which has gained international fame for its location in the heart of Triglavski narodni park, just a stone's throw from the Triglav Lakes, was this year visited mainly by foreigners: “Without foreigners we could have closed the hut; they accounted for 80 percent, Slovenians only 20 percent. This summer season was disastrous; we had 40 percent fewer visitors than in previous years. The main culprit was the weather and inaccurate forecasts. When showers and thunderstorms are forecast, there is no one around, even if the weather here is nice.” Prehodavci has traditionally attracted hikers from practically all over the world; this year Germans, Czechs, Belgians and Dutch predominated, but they also hosted hikers from Egypt, New Zealand, Australia and Japan. “Most hikers are properly equipped, but there are also some odd ones with sandals and city shoes,” adds the manager, whose hut will remain open until the end of September and, in the event of an Indian summer, until 12 October.

Similar difficulties were experienced at Gomiščkovo zavetišče na Krnu (2182 m, PD Nova Gorica), which will also presumably remain open until the end of September. Housekeeper Andreja Locatelli rates this year's season as very poor; last year's attendance was incomparably higher, in her words. She cites bad weather and snow conditions as the main reason: “The snow lingered for a long time; winter hikers are used to it, but summer hikers, who are the majority, do not dare take more demanding routes.” According to Locatelli, many are inadequately equipped for the conditions, and even foreigners are often unprepared for a serious ascent. On Krn too, the majority of hikers were of foreign origin, mostly Europeans; among the rarer visitors were Canadians and Israelis. Foreigners are primarily attracted to the peak in the Julijske Alpe by its historical background and the opportunity to discover remnants of the Soča Front, while domestic hikers see it as an obligatory point on the Slovenska planinska pot; both are convinced by the striking 2,000-metre peak with its proud “nose” and luxurious views on clear days.

The long-lasting snow cover also caused problems for huts in the Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe. “Due to the large amount of snow, many clubs cancelled trips and overnight reservations. Since hikers are not skilled in using winter equipment, they simply do not come,” says Franc Beguš, manager of Kranjska koča na Ledinah (1700 m, PD Kranj), which will remain open until 14 September. “The weather itself was not that bad, at least not here, but when people hear that showers are expected, they stay away. If it rains for half an hour a day, it is not critical, but there are no people. This summer season is really poor; compared to last year, it has turned 180 degrees,” assesses Beguš, who is at Ledine for the third year. This year, in addition to the predominant hikers from central Slovenia and Štajerska, he noticed considerably more from the Savinja region, though Slovenians rarely stay overnight at the hut and usually only go on day trips. Among foreigners, there were significantly fewer Croats and Czechs than in recent years, while there were many Dutch and Belgians, as well as individual Austrians and Italians, who are the best guests because “they let loose in the hills and then with the food”. Given that Kranjska koča na Ledinah is harder to reach and only demanding and very demanding trails lead to it, the manager emphasises that people take this undertaking seriously and are mostly well equipped. For individual inadequately equipped hikers, he himself recommends an easier ascent in the vicinity of the hut, which, in Beguš's words, attracts visitors “with large portions of food, beautiful surrounding hills, lovely colleagues and classical music concerts”. The tradition of concerts has taken firm root in its third season; this year the hut hosted ethno music by the Simboličen orkester, which returns to Ledine again in September. The manager, who never runs out of ideas, is most proud that affordable organised transport from the destination back to the starting point in various parts of the Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe has caught on, from where one can ascend to Kranjska koča na Ledinah.

That the sour weather has decimated attendance at Koča na Klemenči jami pod Ojstrico (1208 m, PD Solčava) is confirmed by manager Rado Novak: “It has been poor this year; rainy weather ruined the season. There were quite a few tourists who come from Logarska dolina to the hut for lunch, and families on day trips, but very few hikers with higher goals above the hut. I could count the well-attended weekends at the hut on the fingers of one hand. There were also very few climbers because the surrounding walls are wet, which is extremely noticeable in turnover. In autumn and winter I will have to work in the valley to cover the season, but I hope next year will be better; I remain an optimist.” The hut below Ojstrica, which will remain open until 14 September, was this year visited mainly by foreigners; there were considerably more Dutch than in previous years, as well as some Germans, Croats and Austrians. Only individual foreigners do not know where they are heading and are inadequately equipped; otherwise the manager emphasises that mountaineers are better equipped every year, and for more demanding ascents almost all have a helmet as a rule, and ice axe and crampons are not unfamiliar to them. At the hut, where overnight stays are very rare, the offer is based on good cuisine; Novak wants to attract even more climbers, so as the initiator and driving force he is directing a lot of energy into the climbing area in Krofička: “In the Krofička wall, ten minutes' walk from the hut, there will be 50 to 100 routes of all difficulties; half will be short, sport routes up to 50 m long, and 30 to 40 will be multi-pitch. We expect the climbing area to come alive next season; we are also arranging space for camping just 300 metres from the hut.”

Quite the opposite is the view of Tatjana and Avgust Kordež, managers of Dom na Uršlji gori (1680 m, PD Prevalje), which will be open daily until October and only at weekends in winter; they rate this summer's attendance as satisfactory: “It is a little worse than previous years, but not that bad. Certainly also because Uršlja gora is more easily accessible and is visited by hikers who cannot go to the high mountains.” The easternmost solitary peak of the Karavanke is ascended by hikers from both the Koroška and Šaleška sides, mostly those following the Slovenska planinska pot. Unlike other huts, Slovenian visitors predominate, with fewer foreigners. “Our vision is that the mountain hut remains a hut and does not become an inn. It thus provides shelter when the weather is bad, and it must be pleasant and warm inside. We attract hikers with friendliness, good food and fairness; my husband is also an experienced mountaineer and good trail advisor,” emphasises Tatjana Kordež, who looks forward to the hiking autumn with pleasure. If the weather is clear, she even fears whether they will manage alone, as Dom na Uršlji gori celebrates the 95th anniversary of PD Prevalje on 6 September, and the 400-year-old church of St. Ursula just a stone's throw from the mountain hut has mass every Sunday, ensuring steady attendance.

On clear days the view from Planinski dom na Kumu (1220 m, PD Kum), open daily except Mondays, extends all the way to Uršlja gora and further to Triglav, Snežnik and Zagreb. “If word of the homemade cream slices from Kum reaches the ninth village, I hope to attract even more people in autumn. If they go to Bled, why not to me as well; I only lack a lake. But I have a beautiful view, in my opinion the most beautiful in Slovenia,” boasts tenant Roman Ledinek. Since he has been managing the highest peak of Posavsko hribovje for just over two months, it is hard for him to assess the summer season, but attendance is satisfactory for him, again depending on the weather forecast: “If the forecast is bad, ten people come; if the weather is nice, up to two hundred.” Hikers usually arrive with a sandwich in their backpack, while day-trippers who drive halfway and then head to Kum for lunch treat themselves to more. Ledinek tries to attract visitors with friendliness, good service and good food, as he is widely known for his homemade desserts. The visit to the hut has been made interesting for children by a donkey and two goats.

The first year as tenants are also Gabrijela and Edvin Nagy at Tumova koča na Slavniku (1018 m, OPD Koper), which is open all year on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from this year. “Attendance is satisfactory, as this summer is more suitable for visiting the hills than the sea,” assesses Edvin, adding that visitors do not need special enticing, as they enjoy going to Slavnik, where his wife, the cook, delights them with homemade food, from gnocchi and game to homemade bread and strudels. The last northern thousand-metre peak of Čičarija is visited by hikers from all over Slovenia, as well as visitors from Italy, Austria and France, who will be able to stay overnight at Tumova koča from 1 September.

At Dom na Lubniku (1025 m, PD Škofja Loka), open daily except Mondays, Cvetka Šmid is also the manager for the first year: “In my opinion attendance is not bad, as Lubnik is visited by regular guests who sign the lubnikarji book and do not care about the weather. Hikers come from all over Slovenia; Škofja Loka with its old town centre is very visited, and since Lubnik is very easily accessible, there are also many tourists. Dutch predominate, there are many Czechs, Austrians, Germans, Italians.” Overnight stays are few; according to the manager, visitors are attracted by a high-level offer and tasty food, especially ocvirkova potica and apple strudel. “By the end of July we recorded 15 percent higher turnover at Dom na Lubniku than in the same period last year. The reason is certainly the relatively bad weather and the proximity of Škofja Loka, as people with little time opt for a short trip while taking advantage of shorter periods of clear weather. Unfortunately Blegoš does not have this advantage; it was severely affected by the ice storm. Due to high snow and ice, access to the hut was obstructed for a long time; now timber is being removed, which certainly affects visitors, as we have eight percent lower turnover by the end of July than last year. August looks good for both huts; we can expect Blegoš to recover in autumn, while at Lubnik we want similarly good attendance in the second half of the year as well,” adds Jože Stanonik, president of PD Škofja Loka, which manages Dom na Lubniku as well as Koča na Blegošu (1391 m).

“Although we do not yet have collected official data from the mountaineering clubs that manage mountain huts, we can assess this year's hiking season as poor. The real indicator is of course the difference between revenue and operating costs, which certainly, especially in high-mountain huts, will not be such as to cover all costs, as we must not forget that this year's winter caused damage to many huts,” assesses vice-president of the Alpine Association of Slovenia Miro Eržen, also looking to the future: “The ever-increasing attendance of foreign hikers at our huts shows that we must pay even greater attention to promoting hiking and mountain huts abroad, also in cooperation with tourist organisations, while of course striving not to try to compensate for the changed habits of domestic visitors – shorter trips, much greater adaptation to weather forecasts, reduced purchasing power … – with the organisation of events that do not belong in the mountains.”

As a sunny weekend is forecast after a long time, it is worth using it for a visit to the mountains. The Alpine Association of Slovenia emphasises that everyone should choose a tour for which they are appropriately psycho-physically prepared and for which they have appropriate mountaineering equipment that they know how to use, and that before heading to the mountains they should check the weather forecast and the condition of the trails, as there are still smaller snowfields in some places in the high mountains, while some in the mid-mountains are still closed due to the consequences of the ice storm. It also recommends that hikers check the opening hours of mountain huts before visiting the mountains and, in the case of overnight stays, arrange reservations in advance at the selected mountain hut, and within the planning of a high-mountain tour also enquire in advance with the relevant club about the condition and opening of bivouacs.

Safe hiking steps and see you in the mountains!