Garnbret also youth world champion in bouldering
13.11.2016
No messing with Slovenian girls! :) Janja Garnbret added the second consecutive top honor in bouldering in the cadet category to her third consecutive youth world champion title in lead on November 13 in China, after also becoming senior world champion and overall World Cup winner in lead this year. Vita Lukan also impressed by becoming youth world silver medalist in bouldering among cadets. The Slovenian youth team in sport climbing is returning home with a total of six medals.
The Youth World Championships in Sport Climbing Guangzhou 2016, held from November 7 to 13, concluded today with the bouldering finals, again exciting for the Slovenian youth team with two medals, after Slovenian cadets dominated the lead climbing world competition on November 9: Garnbret won, Mia Krampl was second, Lukan third. >>> You can watch the footage of Slovenian cadets in the lead final at YWC 2016 in this video: Mia Krampl from 12:15, Vita Lukan from 37:35, Janja Garnbret from 43:17.
Seventeen-year-old Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO) was in a class of her own in bouldering after her midweek lead triumph. In the final, she was by far the best, being the only one to top all four boulders and thus defending her youth world champion title in bouldering in the cadet category up to 18 years. "I'm happy that I managed to climb all boulders in all rounds. Although I became youth world champion already after the first three boulders, I still struggled hard for the top on the last boulder. But I'm especially happy that Vita and I showed there's no messing with Slovenian girls. I'm satisfied with my form and already looking forward to the World Cup in Kranj," laughed the unbeatable Carinthian.
The exceptional Slovenian cadet success was co-created by 16-year-old Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica), who improved her bronze from last year's youth world championships with bouldering silver in China. Third among cadets was American Maya Madere. "After achieving third place in lead, I approached the bouldering competition quite relaxed. The boulders in the semifinals were tough and I was very happy to qualify for the final and win second place in the end. As the icing on the cake, Janja kept me company on the podium, who convincingly won again this time," rejoiced the Gorenjka for her second medal at YWC 2016.
The Slovenian youth team in sport climbing, led by selector Anže Štremfelj and coach Domen Švab, won a total of six medals at this year's youth world championships, all in the cadet girls category up to 18 years. Garnbret claimed two golds - in lead and bouldering - and silver in combined (bouldering, speed and lead climbing), Lukan silver in bouldering and bronze in lead, Krampl silver in lead. "I'm very satisfied with our team's result at this world championships. Five excellent results in individual disciplines and one in combined is a good achievement. We've got confirmation that we're doing well and momentum to go full steam ahead. The youth season is over, but we'll start preparations for 2017 in February," drew the line Štremfelj.
In the bouldering semifinals, Lučka Rakovec (ŠD Proteus) also competed, 8th among older girls up to 16 years, Tjaša Slemenšek (Šaleški AO) and Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), 11th or 15th among cadets, Matic Kotar (ŠD Proteus), 12th among cadets, Julija Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje Matica), 15th among youth women up to 20 years, Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj), 23rd among youth men, and Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica), 39th among older boys.
On November 26 and 27, a real sport climbing spectacle is expected on home soil at the final senior World Cup lead event Kranj 2016. Garnbret has already secured with her overall World Cup 2016 win that we'll hear Zdravljica at least once.