Garnbret serial world champion

Garnbret serial world champion, Krampl runner-up in lead.



Janja Garnbret and Mia Krampl took first and second place at the World Championships in lead climbing in Hachioji, together marking a new milestone for Slovenian climbing. After the Carinthian defended her world boulder champion title on Tuesday as the first competitor to do so, she became the first woman to win both lead and boulder at the same World Championships with today's lead title. Krampl complemented her success with silver, achieving the best result of her career with second place. The third Slovenian finalist, Vita Lukan, finished seventh in her SP debut final.







Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO) is casually stringing together historic milestones. "The boulder win was a very good start to the World Championships, after which I was completely relaxed and climbed the lead that way. I was nervous before the final route, but I managed the pressure, gave everything in the route, it's a shame I slightly missed the last hold. Winning five World Championships, now winning boulder and lead in one, is really incredible, especially after the season I had this year," glowed the 20-year-old Carinthian, who has now won her sixth World Championships medal, five gold and one silver.







Two days after defending her world boulder champion title as the first competitor, Garnbret became world lead champion in grand style and entered history as the first woman to win both lead and boulder at the same championships, which before her in 2014 was achieved only by Czech Adam Ondra, who also won the lead title this time in Hachioji. Garnbret became the second youngest world champion in history with her 2017 lead win, while with this year's victory she settled the score from last year's championships in Innsbruck, where she was second. "This statistic is really crazy! But as I always say, when I enjoy it, I climb as I know how, that's what I did today, gave 120 percent, and my effort and all the training paid off. All seasons so far have been excellent, but none surpasses this one," we can agree with the serial world champion, who had two unreachable tops in qualifications and was the most successful in semifinals and finals, where she fell just below the top of the route.







"I'm really happy for Mia, she really deserved it! Too bad for Vita not being third, so we could repeat the success from the 2016 Youth World Championships in Guangzhou," shared the joy of the world's top sport climber, closely followed by Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), who relaxedly climbed to second place and couldn't believe she won the world runner-up title in lead: "After semifinals I didn't expect a podium, but I knew I was ready for it too, climbed as best I could and it really happened. I still can't comprehend it, it will probably come later. The route didn't seem very difficult to me, but it was quite consistent and I think that brought me to second place because I managed to maintain strength."







The 19-year-old from Gorenjska stepped on the World Cup podium for the first time this year with third in boulder, and in lead achieved the career best at the World Championships: "I've never had problems with the most important competitions, I wasn't any more nervous than on others. Even now I climbed relaxed, enjoyed the route. Since this is the most important competition of the season, I knew the most important thing is to enjoy if you get the chance to climb in the final. I just enjoyed it and the result is the consequence." Third place went to 15-year-old Japanese Ai Mori.







Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica) also recorded her biggest achievement in her first World Championships final. "After really excellent second place after semifinals, I tried to climb the final as relaxed as possible and enjoy it as much as possible, which I succeeded in. I gave everything, climbed to my best abilities and in the end took seventh place, which is a good result for me. Second place from semifinals was confirmation that we trained well, that I'm capable of reaching the podium. In the final it perhaps didn't fully work out, I didn't repeat the semifinal result, but I'm satisfied," summarized the 18-year-old from Gorenjska, who climbed to a silver medal at last year's Youth Olympic Games.







"Even before leaving for the championships I said that finals, podiums and titles interest us, it really worked out. I'm very happy! Janja was incredible again, Mia additionally spiced it up with second place, I really think we slightly exceeded ourselves," was enthusiastic the selector of the Slovenian sport climbing team Gorazd Hren, whose right hands are coaches Luka Fonda and Urh Čehovin, indispensable is also physiotherapist Peter Hribar. And what makes Slovenian sport climbers so exceptional, unreachable? "I think it's this pushing forward, it keeps us in touch with the best every day. Janja is the leader of that, the girls try to follow her - and it works. At home both boys and girls do well, everyone has good coaches and the result is as it should be. That's what we strive for and it's going in the right direction!"







The final narrowly eluded two more members of the Slovenian sport climbing team. Ninth Lučka Rakovec (PK FA) and tenth Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica) reached a height in semifinals that led to the final, but compared to competitors, lower qualification placement unfortunately decided. Škofic has fifth and two fourth places at the last three championships, for Rakovec this is the best World Championships result, as well as for Tjaša Kalan in 12th and Martin Bergant in 20th place. Close to semifinals were Luka Potočar in 27th and Jernej Kruder in 28th place, Anže Peharc achieved 41st and Mina Markovič 46th place.







The sport climbing caravan awaits a rest day on Friday, speed trials on Saturday, and on Sunday the combination qualifications begin, into which the top 20 women and men will qualify based on the product of results at the WC in all three disciplines.