Garnbret victorious in Chamonix

Garnbret wins Chamonix, Krampl achieves career milestone.



Janja Garnbret defended her gold from last year in grand style at the second Lead World Cup event on July 13 in Chamonix, securing her second victory of the 2017 World Cup season. Alongside the 18-year-old Carinthian, 16-year-old Upper Carniolan Mia Krampl, a newcomer to major competitions this year, also shone by reaching her first women's final and finishing seventh, marking a career highlight. The other Slovenian favorites Mina Markovič and Domen Škofic were stuck in the semi-finals this time, where Vita Lukan also competed.



In grand style, topping all competition routes, Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO) defended her Chamonix victory and thus stepped onto the top podium spot at the second 2017 Lead World Cup event, just five days after triumphing in Villars. "I started competing in the women's category in Chamonix, and it's been my favorite event ever since, thanks to the crowd, great atmosphere, and awesome music. I always enjoy climbing all the routes here, especially the final one. This time I did excellently, topping all four routes, so I couldn't have asked for a better finish," rejoiced the 18-year-old sport climber, for whom Chamonix is truly a lucky place—she debuted in senior competitions there in 2015, earning second place in the World Cup and European silver; Mina Markovič won then. After fourth place at this year's European Championships, which opened the season, the Carinthian has returned to winning ways with two consecutive World Cup victories, as she spoiled us last year. "Only now, after three events, do I feel like a lead climber again, back in my best form. Physical fitness wasn't as much of an issue as the mental side, and I also had to switch from bouldering to lead, which was challenging," added Garnbret, the only one to top the semi-final route, while three competitors topped in the final, including second-placed South Korean Jain Kim and third-placed Belgian Anak Verhoeven.



Making her first career final appearance was also the two-years-younger Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), who finished an excellent 7th in France. "I'm thrilled with my first final qualification. I relaxed in the semi-final and climbed as I know how, so the result matched, and I climbed relaxed in the final too, with no result expectations. The atmosphere was insane, and climbing in front of such a crowd of fans was unforgettable," glowed the 16-year-old competitor, who had already drawn attention in junior competition, winning lead silver at the World Championships and bronze at the European Championships last year, both in cadets.



"I'm glad it turned out this way, as the final route was too easy. Fortunately, the semi-final was hard enough—only Janja topped it—so time didn't decide the winner, which we don't like; we prefer fair fights and sufficiently hard routes for the final standings. I'm also excited about Mia's post-final climbing, where she did much better than previous routes; it's truly an incredible achievement to reach the final, which she climbed beautifully and fell high. I'm really excited about the girls in the final today," was satisfied Slovenian sport climbing national team selector Gorazd Hren.



The final slipped away from experienced Mina Markovič (ŠPK Plus) due to a mistake, finishing 13th. "The mistake at a fairly key section cost me too much; I'm sure there was enough strength and endurance to continue. Sometimes the line between holding a hold and continuing much higher or falling mid-move is really thin. Last time in the final there were several such moments, unfortunately not today. After double consecutive podiums and good final performances, I missed it this time," was disappointed the woman from Sežana, who this month already won European silver and second place in the 2017 World Cup, both in her specialty of lead. Just one place behind Markovič, with the same semi-final height, ranked the fourth Slovenian finalist Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica), also a newcomer to major senior events alongside Krampl.



Last year, Garnbret stood on the Chamonix top with her partner Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica), when they recorded the historic first Slovenian double win; this time, the Radovljica native was stuck in the semi-final. "I was disappointed to make a mistake and fail to qualify for the final. After the men's final, though, I'm completely calm, as I don't want to climb a final easier than quals. Half the finalists topping it is not good for the sport at all. I keep explaining to non-experts that I compete in a discipline where the one who goes highest wins. As it seems, I'm wrong," Škofic commented on the men's final, where four competitors topped the route. Italy's Marcello Bombardi celebrated his first win, with Japan's Keiichiro Korenaga and Yuki Hada second and third. Also competing in France were Martin Bergant and Milan Preskar (both PK Škofja Loka), finishing 27th and 48th.



The next Lead World Cup stop is August 28-29 in Briançon; between June 21-23, Slovenia's most successful trio—Garnbret, Markovič, and Škofic—will compete at the World Games in Wrocław, Poland.