Highest Awards for Top Achievements 2014
25.02.2015
The highest awards for top achievements in alpinism and sport climbing for 2014 have been received by Anastasija Davidova, Luka Lindič, Mina Markovič, Jernej Kruder, and Peter Mežnar.
At the alpinism-climbing evening, which took place today, February 25, 2015, as part of the 9th Domžale Mountain Film Festival in Cankarjev dom in Ljubljana, the Alpine Association of Slovenia awarded recognitions for top achievements in alpinism and sport climbing for 2014. The highest awards went to: Anastasija Davidova (most successful female alpinist), Luka Lindič (most successful male alpinist), Mina Markovič (most successful female sport climber), Jernej Kruder (most successful male sport climber), and posthumously to Peter Mežnar for lifetime achievement in alpinism. The Olympic Committee of Slovenia awarded recognitions for achievements in sport climbing in the past year to Mina Markovič, Jernej Kruder, and Roman Krajnik.
"We are very proud that the Alpine Association of Slovenia, as the most mass-based and largest sports organization in Slovenia in this field, is our member. We cooperate exemplary with it and wish to successfully continue projects together that will take as many people as possible to the mountains and as many people as possible into nature every day. We want the field of sport for all, which also concerns your activities and has new plans with the newly elected leadership, to actually make it the second important pillar of the Olympic Committee of Slovenia - Association of Sports Federations. I extend sincere congratulations to all today's awardees and wish you many sports successes in 2015, above all a lot of health and no injuries or accidents. May the year be successful and satisfying, so that in a year's time we remember it as one of the most successful in our joint work," said mag. Janez Sodržnik, Vice-President of the Olympic Committee of Slovenia (OKS), in his opening speech, who first awarded the recognitions for achievements in sport climbing in the past year. The small statue for achieving 1st-3rd place at the world championship or achieving a world record in a non-Olympic sports discipline recognized by the IOC in absolute competition was received by Mina Markovič and Jernej Kruder, and the silver plaque for coaches of athletes who receive the small statue went to Roman Krajnik, coach of the Slovenian national sport climbing team.
Recognitions for the most successful alpinists and sport climbers are awarded by the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS) and its Commission for Alpinism (KA) and Commission for Sport Climbing (KŠP); the purpose of the selection is to evaluate the highest quality alpinistic ascents and top sport climbing achievements and to present the most prominent achievements of Slovenian alpinists and sport climbers to the public.
MOST SUCCESSFUL ALPINISTS OF 2014
The most successful female alpinist of 2014 is Anastasija Davidova (AO PD Ljubljana-Matica).
The most successful male alpinist of 2014 is Luka Lindič (AO PD Celje - Matica).
The most promising alpinist of 2014 is Janez Svoljšak (AO PD Kranj).
Awards for special achievements in alpinism were received by Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje - Matica); Marko Prezelj (AO PD Kamnik) and Aleš Česen (Alpine Mountaineering Club) as well as Domen Kastelic (Academic AO).
The award for lifetime achievement in alpinism was posthumously received by Peter Mežnar (AO PD Kamnik), a top alpinist and mountain rescuer who will always remain in the memory of friends and acquaintances as a wise, fearless alpinist and a good, fair man. More on the PZS website.
MOST SUCCESSFUL SPORT CLIMBERS OF 2015
The most successful female sport climber of 2014 is Mina Markovič (ŠPK Plus).
The most successful male sport climber of 2014 is Jernej Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje - Matica).
Recognition was also received by Roman Krajnik, coach of Mina Markovič, the most successful female sport climber for 2014, and also coach of the national senior team.
Recognitions for sport climbers for top achievements in competitions were received by: Julija Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje - Matica), Urban Primožič (PK Škofja Loka), Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica), and Maja Vidmar (PK Škofja Loka).
Recognitions for promising sport climbers for results at the world and European youth championships were received by: Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka), Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO), Katja Kadič (ŠPO PD Rašica), Matic Kotar (ŠPO PD Rašica), Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj), and Tjaša Slemenšek (Šaleški AO).
STATEMENTS
MINA MARKOVIČ, most successful female sport climber of 2014 and recipient of the small statue for sports achievements, otherwise the most successful Slovenian female sport climber for the fifth year in a row: "The difference in the last five years is enormous, if nothing else, it's all the experience and consistency. There's one thing to achieve such results in the first year, another is to continue and maintain that level. We all know that the level rises from year to year and you have to do quite a bit to stay in the same place or achieve such results further."
JERNEJ KRUDER, most successful male sport climber of 2014 and recipient of the small statue for sports achievements, also this year's recipient of the Bloudek plaque for significant international sports achievement: "Somewhere in the back of my mind I knew that the moment would come when things would turn upwards. I've dedicated myself to climbing since childhood, it's the only thing I see ahead, and last year I managed to make that breakthrough. I'm very happy with the recognition for the most successful sport climber, as it was the hardest to achieve among all recognitions, because we really have very good sport climbers. Maybe I didn't expect so much media attention and public attention, but with such results it almost had to come."
Both the most successful female alpinist NASTJA DAVIDOVA and the most successful male alpinist LUKA LINDIČ are on an expedition in Patagonia, so they did not attend the award ceremony. Luka Lindič, with two ascents also on the broader list of nominated ascents for the Piolet d'Or for the most important alpinistic ascent in the world in 2014, wrote in a message from Patagonia: "With a lot of motivation I got this far that I can now at least for a while devote myself only to climbing. The result of that is also the past season. During this time I got in touch with some people and companies that support me in this, for which I am truly grateful. Like everyone, I also like praise for a job well done, otherwise I prefer to think about the future most of the time and don't like to analyze the past for too long. Currently I have so many projects that I sometimes have trouble keeping up with myself. Just now with Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj we crossed the Adela peaks and climbed Cerro Torre."
JANEZ SVOLJŠAK, most promising alpinist of 2014: "This award means confirmation to me that I'm doing well, that my ascents are quality. From the ascents I would highlight the solo ascent on Matterhorn and some ice and mixed ascents in America."
EXPLANATIONS
MOST SUCCESSFUL in ALPINISM in 2014
The expert commission that made the selection of the best and most promising alpinists consisted of experienced alpinists of different generations who know the conditions in Slovenian and world alpinism: Andrej Štremfelj, Matej Kladnik, Milan Romih, Tadej Debevec, Tina Di Batista, Tomaž Jakofčič, Tone Škarja, Urban Ažman, Urban Novak, as well as Miha Habjan and Nejc Pozvek.
Most successful male alpinist: LUKA LINDIČ (AO PD Celje - Matica)
Luka Lindič has undoubtedly been one of the main protagonists of Slovenian alpinism in recent years, showing exceptional alpinistic maturity, prudence, readiness, and focus despite his young age. The list of last year's achievements could be a list of goals for the entire climbing career for many top alpinists, but Luka condensed them into a fantastic season. That he is a versatile alpinist is proven by both top summer and winter ascents, crowned with a successful expedition.
Most successful female alpinist: ANASTASIJA DAVIDOVA (AO PD Ljubljana - Matica)
Nastja has been able to boast a good harvest of mainly rock ascents for years in a row, to which she added some winter and mixed flavor last year. The ascents may not be at the level of previous seasons, but their number and consistency are the highest among all Slovenian female alpinists.
Most promising alpinist: JANEZ SVOLJŠAK (AO PD Kranj)
Janez raises his level and readiness from year to year, which is also shown in the list of his ascents. He is active in the mountains all year round, and he complements his sporty approach with excellent achievements in the World Cup competitions in ice climbing. He rounded off the year with an excellent solo ascent of the Schmidt route on Matterhorn.
Award for lifetime achievement in alpinism: PETER MEŽNAR (AO PD Kamnik). More on the PZS website.
Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje - Matica), award for special achievements
The other Celje Luka has been stringing together exceptional ascents for years. One of the highlights of last season was the first free repeat of the Rolling Stones route in Grandes Jorasses (with Luka Lindič). An epic 6-day story with a modern approach and the highest alpinistic ethics – minimalist gear, both free climbed the entire route on sight. In addition, Luka devoted himself extensively to the first ascent route in Vežica, which he also successfully free climbed: Štafeta, 8a+, 400 m. He also did the 1st repeat of Rajčeva route in the forewall of Križevnik (8a, 250 m).
Marko Prezelj (AO PD Kamnik) and Aleš Česen (Alpine Mountaineering Club), award for special achievements
Marko and Aleš together with Luka Lindič formed the striking team that in the Indian Himalaya, despite numerous bureaucratic complications before and during the expedition, managed to climb excellent new lines. Among them stands out the ascent in the north face of Hagshu (6657 m): Slovenska smer, ED, 70-90°, 1350 m, which they climbed in one push, then needed another day to complete the route with a traverse to the main summit and an additional day for descent. Definitely an expedition that indicates the guidelines of modern alpinism, while also best summarizing the unrelenting and visionary character of the members.
Domen Kastelic (Academic AO), award for special achievements
Domen's ascents have become a staple among our best alpinistic achievements in recent years. He also planned last season very well. Some good mixed routes in alpine walls at the end of the year he upgraded with a new route on the still unconquered six-thousander Chukyima Go (6259 m) in the Rolwaling Himalaya. With climbing partner Sam Hennessey, they completed the 900-meter route in two days and rated it ED, 90°/60-80°, M4.
MOST SUCCESSFUL in SPORT CLIMBING in 2014
Most successful female sport climber: MINA MARKOVIČ (ŠPK Plus)
Our most successful climber in competitive climbing has been shaping the top of world female climbing for several years in a row. The World Championship brought her a silver medal in lead and bronze in combined. It was very similar at the World Cup events. Especially the autumn part was almost perfect. Three wins and a second place secured her two second places in the overall – in lead and combined. Her fifth consecutive national champion title is probably a logical consequence of successes on the international scene.
Most successful male sport climber: JERNEJ KRUDER (ŠPO PD Celje - Matica)
Jernej is a pronounced boulder specialist and in the past season he managed to show the most at the World Championship. He became the first Slovenian to ever win a medal at the World Championship in bouldering. At the most important competition of the season, he was in the running for the title for a while, eventually winning silver. He later confirmed his excellent form with a win at the prestigious master in Arco. The success at the World Championship was also recognized by the Slovenian sports public, awarding Jernej the Bloudek plaque for significant international sports achievement.
Recognition to coach: Roman Krajnik, coach of Mina Markovič, the most successful female sport climber for 2014, and also coach of the national senior team.
Recognitions for top achievements in competitions
Julija Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje - Matica): Bouldering World Cup events are very unpredictable and the finals lineup changes very often. Julija managed this in Toronto, where she took an excellent 6th place.
Urban Primožič (PK Škofja Loka): For the final at the World Cup event in Chamonix.
Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica): Behind him is the best season so far. He was not in the final of the World Cup in lead only once, where he stood on the podium three times. He returned from the World Championship with 4th place, and in the overall combined World Cup he won a bronze medal. At the national championship he became national champion for the third time in a row and at the end of the season as the first Slovenian he completed a 9a+ route.
Maja Vidmar (PK Škofja Loka): In the past season she reached the final of the World Cup four times and took a podium in Japan. From the World Championship in Spain she returned with 5th place.
Recognitions for promising ones for results at the world and European youth championship
Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka): Silver medal at the European youth championship in lead in the juniors category and bronze medal at the world youth championship in lead in the juniors category.
Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO): World youth champion in lead and double European youth champion in lead and bouldering in the older girls category.
Katja Kadič (ŠPO PD Rašica): Bronze medal at the European youth championship in bouldering in the junior girls category.
Matic Kotar (ŠPO PD Rašica): European youth champion in bouldering in the older boys category.
Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj): Bronze medal at the European youth championship in bouldering in the cadets category.
Tjaša Slemenšek (Šaleški AO): Bronze medal at the European youth championship in lead in the older girls category.