Highest PZS Awards for Top Achievements...
29.01.2016
At the alpine-climbing evening held as part of the Natour Alpe Adria fair on January 28, 2016, at the Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre, the Alpine Association of Slovenia awarded recognitions for top achievements in alpinism, sport and ice climbing, and ski mountaineering for 2015. The highest awards were received by: Peter Podgornik (award for lifetime achievement in alpinism), Anastasija Davidova (most successful female alpinist), Urban Novak and Marko Prezelj (most successful male alpinists), Mina Markovič (most successful female sport climber), Domen Škofic (most successful male sport climber), Janez Svoljšak (most successful ice climber) and Nejc Kuhar (most successful ski mountaineer).
"Mountaineering and alpinism have left a great mark on Slovenians, and for those of us for whom the pinnacle of adventurism is a walk to Triglav, sport climbing brings us closer to this specific movement. I am pleased and congratulate the award recipients who achieve exceptional results and thus bring these sports closer to us," said Iztok Čop, Vice-President of the Olympic Committee of Slovenia - Association of Sports Federations, in his welcome address.
Recognitions for the most successful alpinists, sport and ice climbers, and ski mountaineers are awarded by the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS) and its Commission for Alpinism (KA), Commission for Sport Climbing (KŠP), and Commission for Mountain Sports (KGŠ). The purpose of the selection is to evaluate the highest quality alpinistic ascents, top sport climbing achievements, and successes in ice climbing and ski mountaineering, and to present to the public the most prominent achievements of Slovenian female and male alpinists who last year strung together numerous successful ascents and expeditions, sport female and male climbers who shone again at the biggest competitions, and ice climbers and ski mountaineers who achieved excellent competitive results at the world level.
MOST SUCCESSFUL ALPINISTS OF 2015
The most successful female alpinist of 2015 is Anastasija Davidova (AO PD Ljubljana-Matica).
The most successful male alpinists of 2015 are Urban Novak and Marko Prezelj (both AO PD Kamnik).
The most promising alpinist of 2015 is Matevž Mrak (AO PD Radovljica).
Awards for special achievements in alpinism were received by Luka Lindič, Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje - Matica) and Tadej Krišelj (AO PD Kamnik).
The award for lifetime achievement in alpinism was received by Peter Podgornik (AO PD Nova Gorica), a top alpinist, mountain rescuer, and mountaineering publicist who passes on his extensive knowledge of alpinism to our and future generations of alpinists. More on the PZS website.
MOST SUCCESSFUL SPORT CLIMBERS OF 2015
The most successful female sport climber of 2015 is Mina Markovič (ŠPK Plus).
The most successful male sport climber of 2015 is Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica).
Recognitions for sport climbers for top achievements at competitions were received by: Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO), Katja Kadič (ŠPO PD Rašica), Tjaša Kalan (AO PD Kranj) and Urban Primožič (PK Škofja Loka).
Recognitions for promising sport climbers for results at the world and European youth championships were received by: Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica) and Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj).
Recognitions for coaches were received by Roman Krajnik, coach of Mina Markovič and Domen Škofic and also coach of the national senior team, and Gorazd Hren, coach of Janja Garnbret.
MOST SUCCESSFUL ICE CLIMBER OF 2015 is Janez Svoljšak (AO PD Kranj).
MOST SUCCESSFUL SKI MOUNTAINEER OF 2015 is Nejc Kuhar (TSO PD Jezersko).
PETER PODGORNIK, recipient of the lifetime achievement award in alpinism: "I received the award exactly on the 34th anniversary of the ascent of Aconcagua, and it is also a reminder of the alpinists who are no longer with us, of the friends with whom we enjoyed and worked for alpinism together, as I have been climbing for forty years. I am happy about the award, which means a lot to me, and I am grateful to the climbers who selected me. In life, you can't just receive; you must also give. In alpinism, I have received a lot and lost a lot, but I prefer to give - so that people enjoy reading my notes, guidebooks, at my lectures, that they enjoy my routes. That is the best."
NASTJA DAVIDOVA, most successful female alpinist of 2015, already the fourth recipient of this award: "For now, I still have motivation; when young female alpinists slowly surpass me, I will happily pass this ice axe on. I used all previous experiences from past expeditions in last year's expedition to the Indian Himalayas and combined all knowledge and strength. For me, the Raru expedition was one of the more demanding ones, as it was a mix of primal climbing, exploration, and altitude, and I am satisfied that it aligned with the weather and abilities."
URBAN NOVAK, most successful male alpinist of 2015: "In addition to the ascent of Cerro Kishtwar, the expedition itself and the team were an exceptionally positive experience, which I would prioritize, and the goal was good, a part of the Himalayas that offered us a lot of exploration. I take the award as recognition from the Slovenian expert community, and I like that they liked the ascent."
MARKO PREZELJ, most successful male alpinist of 2015: "Since I am older, the resonance doesn't affect me as much as it would if I were about thirty years younger; I see it as a collateral matter. An ascent experienced as this one doesn't need any resonance, because the more you chew it, the less remains. All awards are very subjective, as has been said, and at the same time, they are also a small sign of self-admiration, arrogance. If you accept the award, you are a bit self-admiring; if you don't, they label you even more so. So you choose the lesser harm, and everything is fine."
MINA MARKOVIČ, most successful female sport climber of 2015, otherwise Slovenia's most successful sport climber for the sixth year in a row: "The last season was really very successful, and such award ceremonies are an opportunity for everyone to gather and see what happened last year. The previous season was really one of the seasons in which I learned a lot, while also showing top form throughout the year, which personally means a lot to me."
DOMEN ŠKOFIC, most successful male sport climber of 2015, with last year's break already the third recipient of this award: "I am happy about this award because there are many sport climbers in Slovenia who climb at a high level, and it's hard to reach the title of most successful. Of course, I am satisfied with the season; I hope it will continue like this in the future so that I achieve a little more each year."
JANEZ SVOLJŠAK, most successful ice climber of 2015: "I hope that with this award and other successes, ice climbing will gain recognition, and that someone else will get enthusiastic about this sport and perhaps keep me company at international competitions."
NEJC KUHAR, most successful ski mountaineer of 2015: "The award primarily means that ski mountaineers are noticed by our umbrella organization, and it is encouragement for the future. We don't have successes like sport climbers, but it's nice that they remember us too."
EXPLANATIONS
MOST SUCCESSFUL in ALPINISM in 2015
The expert commission that selected the most successful alpinists consisted of experienced alpinists from different generations who know the conditions in Slovenian and world alpinism: Andrej Štremfelj, Matej Kladnik, Milan Romih, Tadej Debevec, Tina Di Batista, Tomaž Jakofčič, Tone Škarja, Urban Ažman, Miha Habjan and Peter Bajec.
Most successful male alpinists: MARKO PREZELJ and URBAN NOVAK (AO PD Kamnik)
An international expedition of four men, experienced Marko Prezelj and Manu Pellissier, and young Hayden Kennedy and Urban Novak, under Novak's leadership in the fall of 2015 in the eastern part of the Kashmir mountain range in India, climbed a first ascent route on the imposing 6,173-meter-high Cerro Kishtwar. The four-day ascent in the east face thoroughly tested their strength, so they rated the route named Light before wisdom ED+, the elevated highest grade on the French scale. The ascent very likely ranks among the best alpinistic ascents in the world in 2015, which is why it also resonated strongly in the international alpinistic community.
Most successful female alpinist: ANASTASIJA DAVIDOVA (AO PD Ljubljana - Matica)
Nastja crowned a new successful alpinistic year with excellent ascents on two expeditions, where she mainly climbed roped with Matic Jošt. In Patagonia, her main goal was Aguja Saint Exupery, and she left traces with three first ascents in the Raru range in the Indian Himalayas. The style adds extra weight to the ascents: exploration of almost completely untouched mountains and climbing their steep walls.
Most promising alpinist: MATEVŽ MRAK (AO PD Radovljica)
Matevž had an excellent year in 2015, climbing well both in winter and summer. Winter ascents at the start of the season (second winter repeat of Sveča in Travnik) and the end of the year with an express ascent via Helba and Čopov steber to the summit of Triglav stand out. In summer, Matevž climbed with peers in the Mont Blanc range, where the ascent via Centralni Frenejev steber stands out, and he made the first free repeat of Spominčica in Triglav.
Lifetime achievement award in alpinism: PETER PODGORNIK (AO PD Nova Gorica).
Award for special achievements in alpinism: Luka Lindič, Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje - Matica) and Tadej Krišelj (AO PD Kamnik)
The trio climbed together in Patagonia this year, succeeding in an interesting ridge traverse of the Adela peaks ending via the Ragni route on Cerro Torre. The Krajnc-Krišelj pair had previously succeeded in Patagonia with the first ascent route Blockbuster in the west face of Mojon Rojo; Krajnc and Lindič added a first ascent route in the south pillar of the north summit of Biacherahi in the Pakistani Karakorum in summer; Lindič, in a season of three expeditions to Alaska roped with Aleš Česno, also climbed the French route on Mt. Hunter.
MOST SUCCESSFUL in SPORT CLIMBING in 2015
Most successful female sport climber: MINA MARKOVIČ (ŠPK Plus)
Our most successful climber in competitive climbing has for several years shaped the top of world female climbing. She started the difficulty season with a gold medal and the title of European champion. Then at World Cup events, she won three more times and took second place once. Altogether, it brought her a third win in the overall World Cup difficulty standings at the end of the season. In the national championship, she became national champion for the sixth time in a row, and at the end of the year, as the first Slovenian, she succeeded on a 9a route.
Most successful male sport climber: DOMEN ŠKOFIC (ŠPO PD Radovljica)
He had his best season so far, achieving what had been in the air for some time. At World Cup difficulty events, he stood on the podium three times, and he topped it off with his first win at the event in Puurs, Belgium. He narrowly missed a medal in the overall World Cup difficulty standings but got it in the overall combined standings. In the national championship, he became national champion for the fourth time in a row, and at the end of the season, he strung together a series of excellent ascents at natural crags.
Coach recognition: Roman Krajnik, coach of Mina Markovič and Domen Škofic, the most successful sport climbers of 2015 and also coach of the national senior team.
Recognitions for top achievements at competitions
Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO): At her first senior competition, she was the biggest surprise with a silver medal at the European Championship in difficulty. Later in the season, she stood on World Cup podiums twice more. On top of everything, she won the world and European youth champion titles in both difficulty and bouldering.
Katja Kadič (ŠPO PD Rašica) for the final and eventual sixth place at the World Cup bouldering event in Munich.
Tjaša Kalan (AO PD Kranj): Her best season so far. She qualified for the finals of the World Cup difficulty twice in Stavanger and Imst.
Urban Primožič (PK Škofja Loka) for the final at the World Cup difficulty event in Imst.
Coach recognition: Gorazd Hren, coach of Janja Garnbret, who as a member of the national senior team achieved truly top results this season.
Recognitions for promising climbers for results at the world and European youth championships
Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj) for the youth European champion title in difficulty in the older girls category and silver medal at the world youth championship in difficulty in the older girls category.
Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica) for the bronze medal at the world youth championship in bouldering in the older girls category.
Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj) for the silver medal at the European youth championship in bouldering in the juniors category and bronze medal at the world youth championship in bouldering in the juniors category.
MOST SUCCESSFUL in ICE CLIMBING in 2015
Most successful ice climber: JANEZ SVOLJŠAK (AO PD Kranj)
Janez Svoljšak is a versatile climber and alpinist, and also currently our most successful competitor in ice climbing. Winner of the Slovenian-Croatian Cup (4 events), national champion, winner of the open Austrian championship, 3rd place at the international competition in Bratislava; at World Cup events, standout placings include: 9th in Bozeman, USA, 8th at the event in Korea, and 13th at the world championship in Rabenstein, Italy.
MOST SUCCESSFUL in SKI MOUNTAINEERING in 2015
Most successful ski mountaineer: NEJC KUHAR (TSO PD Jesersko)
Nejc Kuhar is an excellent competitor in both ski mountaineering and mountain running. Multiple winner of the national cup and national championships in various ski mountaineering categories. In the past season, at the world championship in Verbier, Switzerland, he took 11th in the vertical race and 15th in the individual race. He won the open Austrian championship and at home became national champion both individually and in the vertical race.
Sincere congratulations to all award winners with the wish that in 2016 they will continue to inspire themselves and us with new achievements, above all succeeding in maintaining the strong will, dedication, and enthusiasm that guide them in performing at such a top level.