Janja and Domen on top in Kranj...
28.11.2016
Janja and Domen on top of the 2016 World Cup in Kranj.
Janja Garnbret and Domen Škofic, on November 27 in Kranj, with their joint victory in the 2016 World Cup lead climbing (Janja also in combined), set another milestone for Slovenian sport climbing, adding to their collection of the most prestigious awards in front of a loud home crowd: Janja a bronze medal and Domen a silver medal. At the final World Cup event in lead climbing, the Slovenian success was complemented by fourth-placed Mina Markovič, a multiple Kranj winner, and Urban Primožič, who achieved sixth place as a farewell to competitive climbing. Slovenia became the winner of the Nations Cup in lead climbing for the first time in history.
Kranj has been an indispensable stop for the world's best sport climbers for 21 years before the end of the season. At the last event of this year's World Cup, organized by the Alpine Association of Slovenia under the auspices of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), 49 women and 73 men from 23 countries competed, and besides the brilliant performances of our climbers, a special touch was given by the accompanying program - children's workshops and mini Olympics with Foksi, climbing films from the Mountain Film Festival, and strong finger competition; at the official opening, the audience was stunned by Dana Auguštin's floating acrobatics performance, and during the competition, DJ Pier warmed up the atmosphere.
The current world champion Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO) had to admit defeat in the final to the winner, Belgian Anak Verhoeven, who is also second in the overall World Cup lead standings, and second-placed Japanese Akiyo Noguchi, despite good climbing in front of a loud home crowd; Mina Markovič (ŠPK Plus) climbed to fourth place in her eleventh Kranj final, where she has already stood on the top step four times. The barely 17-year-old Garnbret had already become the overall winner in both lead and combined before the season's finale, so Zdravljica, the Slovenian anthem, resounded twice in honor in the capital of Gorenjska.
Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica) climbed his first Kranj medal in the truly demanding final route, reaching the second height and securing the overall World Cup lead climbing title with silver, a historic milestone for Slovenian sport climbing, as it has never had a male representative in the overall standings before. Victory went to German Sebastian Halenke with an excellent final performance, third place to Austrian Jakob Schubert, also second in the overall lead standings. For his farewell to competitive career, Urban Primožič (PK Škofja Loka) performed again in front of the home crowd after five years and celebrated an excellent sixth place and overall tenth in the 2016 World Cup lead.
In the most successful season of the Slovenian national team in sport climbing, Slovenia also became the winner of the Nations Cup in lead climbing for the first time in history, ahead of France and Austria.
The 19-member Slovenian team represented Slovenian colors at the Kranj World Cup final event, with as many as eleven advancing to the semifinals. In addition to the finalists, Katja Kadič (11th), Jure Raztresen (16th), Vita Lukan (19th), Milan Preskar (19th), Rebeka Kamin (20th), Tjaša Kalan (24th), Mia Krampl (26th), Kaja Skvarč Božič (34th), Tjaša Slemenšek (35th), Veronika Meke (38th), Jernej Kruder (42nd), Anže Peharc (46th), Martin Bergant (47th), Gregor Vezonik (51st), and Zan Sudar (54th) also gave their all.
"It's really unbelievable, I still can't comprehend that Domen and I managed to win the overall World Cup together. We've written another historic event - I'm simply happy," sparkled in the eyes of Janja Garnbret, who, besides the double overall World Cup win in Kranj, wanted to show her best performance in front of home fans who came en masse with banners from Koroška and Velenje to support her, but it faltered a bit; nevertheless, thanks to her, we proudly heard the Slovenian anthem twice. "Nerves were key. I felt very good throughout the competition, but in the final, I slipped at a move where I fell. Still, I won the overall World Cup standings, so I don't need to be disappointed. It was unbelievable to hear Zdravljica twice; I couldn't have imagined it even in my dreams, but now it has come true," Janja rejoiced with a hint of bitterness, even more so because she and Domen stepped onto the World Cup throne together. "I think we still can't comprehend what just happened; it's really unbelievable, maybe it won't happen again," she said right after the medal and cup ceremony, which is additional motivation for progress. "Challenges await me both on rock and in competitions; I even want to repeat all results, so I won't run out until the end of my career," the young competitor put the finishing touch, who achieved everything possible in youth competition and much more than many in her first full senior season.
Domen Škofic also glowed with pride when he raised the cup for the overall World Cup lead victory high, which was decided in Kranj. "During climbing, I was very relaxed; Janja's advance double World Cup win was additional motivation for us to succeed together, but I had to control the desire so it wasn't too great and created pressure instead of encouragement," said the Radovljičan, who won the first highest award for Slovenian men's climbing and ennobled it with silver in Kranj, his premiere podium at home: "I didn't think that height in the final route would be enough for the podium, but after climbing I felt great and know I gave everything. I thought surely someone fell before me; from the hall's reaction, I knew I had put together something good, but it was still hard to comprehend. The home crowd is always something special; finally, I made it to the podium - it wasn't a win, but winning the overall and podium in Kranj is like a fairy tale. I'm overjoyed to be part of this, overjoyed that we're at the top together with Janja." With the brilliant successes of our climbers, sport climbing is becoming more and more popular. "We created this together, as such public support for sport climbing certainly helps; I hope interest will continue to grow and that they expand the Kranj hall, as it's a shame more fans can't come to the event," added the 22-year-old.
"The route or setting was phenomenal, although not entirely suited to me, so I'm even happier that I managed to focus, put together all my knowledge and experience, and go as high as possible. At the end, I still had quite a bit of strength left, as the route required tough decisions and hard moves. It was a very good weekend behind me; I showed I'm physically and mentally well-prepared and still competitive for the top," summarized Mina Markovič after the competition, whose passion for competitive climbing kept her in the caravan of the best, where she was a three-time overall World Cup winner in the past: "I'll think about it, but inside I feel I'm still competitive for the very top; it means a lot to me to do what I love most - and I want to continue." In eleven consecutive Kranj finals, she climbed four wins (in 2009, 2012, 2014, and 2015); what will she remember this year's event for most? "I hope not that it's the last. Kranj always has great organization, routes get better year by year, and the crowd does its part. Maybe I'll remember it for not showing everything I'm capable of, but definitely also for good climbing and the personal reward of climbing in Kranj again."
Kranj also holds a special place in Urban Primožič's career, as he competed in his first World Cup event here in 2008, qualified for his first home final in 2011 with fifth place, his best career result, which he equaled this year in Villars; he chose this year's Kranj World Cup as his farewell to competitive career, so he was even happier for the farewell final. "Just qualifying for the final was unbelievable for me; that's what I wanted, and I got it. In the final, I just wanted to perform relaxed, show what I know; the route, unlike quals and semis, was hard from the start. Maybe a moment of distraction at the key hold, because of which I fell, but I wasn't disappointed. I'm satisfied, especially happy that Domen succeeded too," rejoiced the 24-year-old Škofjeločan honestly, who faces new challenges after his competitive path: "The decision came after long consideration. I'm finishing my master's in mechanical engineering and see myself in that field in the coming years, which I really enjoy. Of course, I can't leave climbing behind, so I'll keep climbing, actively participate in the club, and help the national team if needed."
"Qualifying eleven to semis was excellent, four advanced to final. The men's final route was really salty, a bit of a shame for the spectators, for the show. Halenke fairly won, Domen as second is an excellent result, also firmly secured his overall lead advantage, which was the biggest wish. The women had a nice route. Anak showed today what she's shown all season, very well prepared; Janja climbed excellently, in my opinion the best, but hurried too much in the last part, but third place and overall win are top. I really wanted Mina on the podium too, who also climbed well. Urban climbed well too, he got unlucky at the hold that turned out to be the route's crux; I'm very glad his career end (though sadly for me) coincided with a final," assessed the performances of his charges Gorazd Hren, selector of the Slovenian sport climbing national team, whose right hands are assistant Luka Fonda and coach Urh Čehovin.
At the Kranj 2016 World Cup final, Minister of Education, Science and Sport Maja Makovec Brenčič also cheered for our competitors, saying: "Sport climbing is a discipline popular not only with youth, and above all gaining more support worldwide, so it's right that Slovenia supports it too. We have exceptional female and male climbers, proven by excellent results, and above all this sport is gaining more recognition and weight, so full support from our side too. To individuals who were excellent in their achievements this season, the ministry has already given a modest award to make their sports path at least a little easier. Climbing sport doesn't yet have the support it deserves, so it's right to reward exceptional individuals as a state from time to time."
"A great success is the decision to include sport climbing as an Olympic discipline, unfortunately for now only for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. This means Slovenia has one more sport where it can hope for top achievements; we have two World Cup winners, and on the other hand, it's a sport suited to our mentality, there's relatively a lot of interest, and if sport climbing stays among Olympic sports, I think Slovenia will have an even more prestigious place in the international Olympic family," assessed the prospects of sport climbing Janez Kocijančič, acting president of the European Olympic Committees.
RESULTS of the final World Cup event Kranj 2016
women - 49 competitors (source: IFSC) men - 73 competitors (source: IFSC)
1. Anak Verhoeven (BEL)
2. Akiyo Noguchi (JAP)
3. Janja Garnbret (SLO)
4. Mina Markovič (SLO)
5. Hannah Schubert (AVS)
6. Jain Kim (KOR)
7. Yuka Kobayashi (JAP)
8. Mathilde Becerra (FRA)
...
11. Katja Kadič (SLO)
19. Vita Lukan (SLO)
20. Rebeka Kamin (SLO)
24. Tjaša Kalan (SLO)
26. Mia Krampl (SLO)
34. Kaja Skvarč Božič (SLO)
35. Tjaša Slemenšek (SLO)
38. Veronika Meke (SLO)
1. Sebastian Halenke (NEM)
2. Domen Škofic (SLO)
3. Jakob Schubert (AVS)
4. Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA)
5. Dmitrii Fakiryanov (RUS)
6. Urban Primožič (SLO)
7. Romain Desgranges (FRA)
8. Yuki Hada (JAP)
...
16. Jure Raztresen (SLO)
19. Milan Preskar (SLO)
42. Jernej Kruder (SLO)
46. Anže Peharc (SLO)
47. Martin Bergant (SLO)
51. Gregor Vezonik (SLO)
54. Zan Sudar (SLO)
OVERALL STANDINGS World Cup 2016
Lead
women (source: IFSC)
men (source: IFSC)
1. Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 530 points
2. Anak Verhoeven (BEL) - 495 points
3. Jain Kim (KOR) - 395 points
4. Magdalena Röck (AVS) - 345 points
5. Mina Markovič (SLO) - 306 points
...
20. Tjaša Kalan (SLO) - 77 points
1. Domen Škofic (SLO) - 472 points
2. Jakob Schubert (AVS) - 402 points
3. Romain Desgranges (FRA) - 380 points
...
10. Urban Primožič (SLO) - 199 points
Combined
women (source: IFSC) men (source: IFSC)
1. Janja Garnbret (SLO) - 596 points
2. Akiyo Noguchi (JAP) - 447 points
3. Jessica Pilz (AVS) - 286 points
1. Sean McColl (KAN) - 538 points
2. Jakob Schubert (AVS) - 439 points
3. Kokoro Fujii (JAP) - 423 points
Nations Cup (source: IFSC)
1. Slovenia - 1575 points
2. France - 1548 points
3. Austria - 1325 points