Lučka Rakovec bronze in Kranj

Lučka Rakovec bronze in Kranj, Mia Krampl seventh in front of home fans.



At the World Cup lead climbing competition in Kranj, Slovenian Lučka Rakovec earned a bronze medal, her first in the World Cup, while Mia Krampl qualified for an excellent seventh place in front of home fans.



The main favorite Janja Garnbret surprisingly ended her performance already in the semifinals. South Korean Chaehyun Seo won, in the men's competition Czech Adam Ondra, the highest among Slovenians was Luka Potočar with 13th place. The Kranj event is currently not in the 2020 calendar, but the mountaineering association is striving to keep Slovenia as the host of a World Cup event.







For 24 years, all paths of the best sport climbers have led to the capital of Gorenjska, where the fourth World Cup 2019 lead climbing event, organized by the Alpine Association of Slovenia under the auspices of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), saw 125 competitors. In addition to excellent performances by our representatives, the event was marked by a supporting program: climbing and animation for children, mini Olympics, the film GreGor about paraplegic climber Gregor Selak, and an acrobatic spectacle at the opening.







Lučka Rakovec (PK FA), who finished the semifinals even second, made it to the podium for the first time in her career in the final and celebrated a bronze medal. "Slowly I'll start believing in superstition, apparently the third time's the charm. This was my third lead final and I'm really happy because these are my first World Cup podium, the icing on the cake is that I achieved them in front of the home crowd, who definitely helped me with their loud cheering," glowed the 18-year-old from Ljubljana, who was ninth at the World Championships in August, otherwise this year already third time a World Cup finalist and currently seventh in the overall WC standings: "The final route was quite demanding, as it seemed during inspection when we needed a lot of time to figure it out. It was really hard, at the place where several fell, I looked at it differently, which confused me a bit, but I'm definitely satisfied with my performance." In Kranj, 15-year-old South Korean Chaehyun Seo, leader in the World Cup lead standings, won, second was last year's world champion, Austrian Jessica Pilz.







The other Slovenian finalist Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), current world runner-up in lead, was seventh in her first final in front of home fans. "I'm very happy that I managed to reach the final in Kranj too and climb in the final in front of the home crowd, although I didn't show my best performance. Whether it's home or away competition doesn't affect me, I just enjoyed the final, even though it didn't go the best," summarized the 19-year-old from Gorenjska, who achieved her career best with second place at the recent World Championships, otherwise fifth in the World Cup overall standings, this time confirming consistent form: "Almost every competition this year I've made the final, so I'm constantly proving to myself what I'm capable of, and that it's not just a one-time luck, but final is a realistic goal, so now I can aim higher." Both Rakovec and Krampl have the European Championships in lead next weekend, then two more World Cup lead events, and qualifying for the Olympics at the end of the season. Ahead of Krampl in Kranj were Belgian Anak Verhoeven fourth, Japanese Ai Mori fifth and Natsumi Hirano sixth, Japanese Mei Kotake also closed the top eight finalists.







Surprisingly, main favorite Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO), current three-time world champion, missed the final after a mistake in the upper part of the semifinal route, finishing 13th, after being second in Kranj last year, first the year before, and third twice before. "I'm a bit shocked myself, but it had to happen sometime, too bad at home event. It happens! I was nervous, honestly, this time I couldn't handle the pressure before the home competition, but I think it was another good lesson, I'll learn something from it, so head up and forward. Even at home event I wanted to show good form, maybe I created too much pressure myself, probably added yearly fatigue," was disappointed the 20-year-old from Carinthia, world's number one sport climber, serial World Cup winner and competitor with six world champion titles. Better than Garnbret were teammates Tjaša Kalan (AO PD Kranj) tenth and Lana Skušek (PK Scena) eleventh. Sixth Slovenian semifinalist Mina Markovič (ŠPK Plus), Kranj record holder with four wins, finished her sixteenth Kranj appearance 15th.







In the men's competition, Czech Adam Ondra, current world lead champion and multiple overall World Cup winner, showed his dominance again, winning in Kranj for the fourth time. Second was Japanese Kai Harada, last year's bouldering world champion, third young Spaniard Alberto Gines Lopez. Fourth was Canadian Sean McColl, fifth Japanese Kokoro Fujii, sixth last year's winner Stefano Ghisolfi, seventh Austrian Jakob Schubert and eighth Czech Martin Stranik.







Without the best ranked Slovenian in lead Domen Škofic, who decided to end the season early, highest in Kranj was Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica), who climbed to 13th in his first Kranj semifinal, his second best career result. Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka) matched his best with 15th, Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj), otherwise bouldering specialist, reached 16th, his best in lead. "Satisfied with the result, not so much with climbing. The route was really hard, but I could have climbed it better, but happy to achieve my second best result. The route didn't allow mistakes, you could fall quickly, no big rests. It was constant, you had to climb very well to get over the roof and continue. Very happy it worked out, finally in Kranj where I made semifinal for the first time," was satisfied 17-year-old Potočar.







"Someone might say we didn't achieve expectations, but both Lučka and Mia were in Kranj final for the first time, which is excellent. Of course we aimed for it, their results point that way, Lučka on podium, third is great, so more than satisfied. Very happy for Lučka, shame for Mia not showing all she's capable of. Shame for Janja missing semifinal, but she has so many good results, it happens, head up forward. For the guys, without Domen maybe less experienced team. Luka and Martin good, important result Anže, closer to Toulouse where he'll chase Olympic spot. Semifinal full of Slovenians, great achievement," assessed head coach of Slovenian team Gorazd Hren, assisted by Luka Fonda and Urh Čehovin, latter for the last time.







Slovenian sport climbing team in qualifications also represented by four more. World Cup debutante Lucija Tarkuš (AK Impol Slovenska Bistrica) 41st, Jernej Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje Matica) 42nd, Žiga Zajc (PK Scena) 45th, Milan Preskar (PK Škofja Loka) 52nd and debutant Andrej Polak (PK Škofja Loka) 56th.







After almost a quarter century, with Tomo Česen overseeing from the start, Kranj event not in 2020 calendar, explains IFSC president Marco Maria Scolaris: "Currently Kranj not among World Cup 2020 venues, not punishment for Slovenia, but sport development, looking at top athletes development, climbing infrastructure and climbing schools. If we find good location within sport development, believe we'll be back soon. Kranj hall becoming too small, for next year questionable also because new countries with good offers, Slovenia must propose bigger better. Don't forget Olympic medal chances, but Slovenia slept in some areas, needs national climbing center. Believe shock for Kranj no event after 24 years, but optimistic, here to discuss, Slovenia host better event in future."







Alpine Association strongly strives for Slovenia to remain World Cup host, emphasizes Matej Planko, PZS general secretary: "In PZS aware of infrastructure issues for long. Informing ministry, want proper tender. Currently several projects for climbing centers in Slovenia. Only quick solution for Kranj World Cup is rent or build mobile wall and outdoor event like abroad. Needs extra funds, budget already near 100k euros. Will study in coming months, if works, offer to IFSC."