Makalu, the first Slovenian eight-thousander, 50 years later...

Makalu, the first Slovenian eight-thousander, 50 years later with the book by Viki Grošelj.

The success on Makalu triggered a real avalanche of top Slovenian achievements in the Himalayas, whereby Slovenian alpinism stood alongside the Himalayan superpowers. On the 50th anniversary of the first Slovenian ascent of an eight-thousander, Viki Grošelj, in the company of his alpinist colleagues, presented a new book Makalu, 8481 m with the subtitle: The first Slovenian eight-thousander and the time after it. He accompanied it to readers on July 30, 2025, in the premises of the Alpine Association of Slovenia, under whose auspices this successful Himalayan expedition took place half a century ago.

The first ascent of Makalu (8481 m) via the south wall in October 1975 meant the definitive breakthrough of Slovenian alpinism to the world alpinist top, as this was only the third climbed wall in the Himalayas. The summit of the fifth highest mountain in the world was reached by seven alpinists on the expedition led by Aleš Kunaver with exceptional support from the remaining members. On October 6, 1975, Stane Belak - Šrauf and Marjan Manfreda - Marjon stood on the eight-thousander as the first Slovenians, Manfreda completed the ascent without using additional oxygen, which was the world altitude record at the time. Two days later, Janko Ažman and Nejc Zaplotnik reached the summit, on October 8 the pair Viki Grošelj and Ivan Kotnik, on October 11 as the last, Janez Dovžan. Grošelj was the youngest member of the Makalu 1975 expedition and experienced the most beautiful possible contact with the highest mountain range in the world. As a complete Himalayan novice, he was in the Himalayas for the first time, he was allowed to step on the summit and also safely return to the valley. He experienced and survived everything that a young enthusiastic climber could wish for at that time. Makalu marked him forever.

"The book is a tribute to the generation that brought Slovenian alpinism to the world top. This achievement in 1975, the ascent of Makalu, when even we ourselves were not clear on what we had succeeded in doing, only gains value with the years. The co-climbers are most responsible for its creation," emphasized Viki Grošelj. While writing the book Makalu, 8481 m: The first Slovenian eight-thousander and the time after it, which was published by Založba Buča, he wanted to relive once again everything that happened that exceptional autumn of 1975 on the way under the mountain, in its south wall, and on its windswept summit. As well as to revive memories of the time after Makalu, what happened ten, 20, 30, 40, and 50 years later. At the book's release, he was joined by alpinist colleagues from the expedition Ivan Kotnik, Janez Dovžan, Stane Klemenc, Bojan Pollak, Danilo Cedilnik, Jože Rožič and TV cameraman Radovan Riedl, the remaining members of the expedition were also Zoran Bešlin, Boris Erjavec, Tomaž Jamnik, Janez Lončar, Milan Rebula, Roman Robas, Dušan Srečnik and doctor Damijan Meško. The success resonated strongly at home; President Tito decorated the alpinists with the Order of Merit for the Nation, with a golden star, as a team they received the Bloudek Award and many other recognitions, and world Himalayanism included Yugoslavia in its circle.

The President of the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS) Jože Rovan initially highlighted the fact that the Slovenian first ascent of Makalu was the moment when we stood alongside the great Himalayan nations. According to his words, Viki Grošelj was from the very beginning one of the key actors in Himalayan expeditions and also one of the main chroniclers, who with his gift for writing poured these experiences between the covers of numerous books. The book Makalu, 8481 m is Grošelj's twentieth already, the representative of Založba Buča Nataša Sedminek highlighted five and added that Viki is one of the most heartfelt and most successful Buča authors, whom people respect and appreciate as a top alpinist, as a writer, and as a person with a capital letter. The gathered were also greeted by the honorary general consul of Nepal mag. Aswin Kumar Shrestha and mentioned good cooperation with Aleš Kunaver.


The ascent of Slovenian alpinists on Makalu is still considered one of the greatest achievements of world Himalayan climbing and was an excellent basis and encouragement for further Slovenian successes in the highest mountain range in the world. Reinhold Messner at the turn of the millennium included their ascent among the 32 greatest world achievements in the great walls of the Himalayas in the previous century. About their success, he wrote: "I could not climb the south wall of Makalu. Such an elegant wall! Such a clean line! Fascinating route. Ideal ascent! ... Great success of comradeship and collective work, which the Slovenians not only idealized, but put into practice."

The anniversary year began with a trek under Makalu at the end of April and May this year, among the 16 participants were also four veterans from the Makalu 1975 expedition: Grošelj, Klemenc, Kotnik and Pollak. After returning from the trek, on the initiative of Miro Eržen from PZS, in one of the largest mountaineering museums in the world, in Nepalese Pokari, they opened a Slovenian exhibition on the 50th anniversary of the ascent of Makalu and the 30th anniversary of the ascent of Anapurna, where the Slovenian ambassador for India and Nepal was also present. The exhibition, which stands in English in Nepal, will in the Slovenian version begin its journey through Slovenia: on August 13 they will open it in Jezersko, on September 1 in Murska Sobota, on September 18 in Galerija Gunclje, on October 17 in the Slovenian Alpine Museum in Mojstrana and on November 19 in Cankarjev dom in Ljubljana. At all events, there will also be a presentation of the book Makalu. The Post of Slovenia will issue a commemorative stamp on September 26 in honor of the 50th anniversary of the resounding ascent, on November 24 Grošelj will have a lecture in Cankarjev dom in Ljubljana on the 50th anniversary of the ascent.

Slovenian alpinists climbed the 14 highest peaks in the world in 20 years, mostly via first ascent routes. In 1975, Marjan Manfreda and Stane Belak stood on the eight-thousander Makalu (8481 m) as the first Slovenians, Manfreda completed the ascent without using additional oxygen, which was the world altitude record at the time. Two years later, Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik reached the summit of Gasherbrum I (8068 m). As the first Slovenians, in 1979 on the highest peak in the world Everest (8848 m) stood Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik. Grošelj in 1984 together with the Croat Stipe Božić climbed Manaslu (8163 m). Bogdan Biščak and Viki Grošelj climbed Broad Peak (8047 m) in 1986, the next day the success was complemented by the first Slovenian woman on an eight-thousander, Marija Štremfelj. The same year, Gasherbrum II (8035 m) became the sixth eight-thousander that Slovenian alpinists conquered: Bogdan Biščak, Viki Grošelj, Pavle Kozjek and Andrej Štremfelj. On Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in 1987 stood Marjan Kregar and Iztok Tomazin, who the next year conquered Cho Oyu (8201 m). In 1989, via the route of the first ascenders Viki Grošelj reached the summit of Lhotse (8516 m), the same year Pavle Kozjek and Andrej Štremfelj conquered Shishapangma (8046 m), the tenth Slovenian eight-thousander. The next year, Marija Frantar and Jože Rozman reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8125 m). In 1991, Marko Prezelj and Andrej Štremfelj climbed a first ascent route in the south wall of Kangchenjunga (8598 m), already two days later Grošelj stood on the main summit of Kangchenjunga (8586 m) together with the Croat Božić. In 1993, Zvonko Požgaj and Viki Grošelj reached K2 (8611 m) via the classic route without additional oxygen, which was the thirteenth eight-thousander in total, but also the first in independent Slovenia. In 1995, Davo and Drejc Karničar as the first Slovenians reached the summit and then as the first in the world skied the north wall of Annapurna I (8091 m). This was at the same time the last, fourteenth conquered Slovenian eight-thousander.