Mia and Lučka youth Eur. champions in bouldering, Vita...

Mia and Lučka youth Eur. champions in bouldering, Vita in combined, 7 medals for Slovenia.



The Slovenian youth team in sport climbing is returning from the youth continental championships with seven medals. Youth climber Mia Krampl and cadet Lučka Rakovec won the youth European championship title in bouldering in Brussels, Rakovec also became runner-up in combined, youth climber Vita Lukan took third place in Belgium and became continental champion in combined. Older girl Betka Debevec climbed to a bronze medal in bouldering, her first at major competitions, cadet Luka Potočar won bronze in combined. The best will also compete at the upcoming senior world championships in Innsbruck, Lučka and Vita also at the youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires.



Brussels hosted the youth European bouldering championships from August 31 to September 2, 2018, where the Slovenian youth team under the leadership of selector Anže Štremflj and coach Domen Švab claimed four medals. Cadet Lučka Rakovec and youth climber Mia Krampl became continental champions, youth climber Vita Lukan and older girl Betka Debevec climbed to bronze medals. This event, together with the youth European championships in lead and speed held in May in Imst, also counted towards the combined. Therefore, medals for the youth European combined championships were also awarded in Brussels, where youth climber Lukan won gold, and in the cadet category Rakovec was second and Luka Potočar third.



"I went into the competition without high expectations and didn't put extra pressure on myself. This allowed me a clear head and relaxed, focused climbing both in qualifiers and finals. I'm extremely satisfied with topping all four boulders on the first try. The youth European bouldering championship title means a lot to me, as it's reward for my effort throughout the season, and especially confirmation of my readiness for the upcoming world championships, which is the season's highlight for me," rejoiced the new youth European champion Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), an 18-year-old youth climber who has previously achieved better results in lead but shone in bouldering this time.



In the youth category up to 20 years, Krampl's success was complemented by Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica), who after third place in bouldering at the recent youth world championships also won bronze at the European. "The competition started quite promisingly, as I finished qualifiers an hour before time limit topping all eight boulders. My finals performance wasn't the most convincing though. Although I made it to the podium, I didn't find my way on the boulders well and mistakes followed. But I'm happy with the new medal from the championships and truly glad to hear the Slovenian anthem at the ceremony, which Mia earned with exceptional climbing," summarized the 17-year-old from Radovljica, who with bronze from the May lead part of YEC also climbed to youth European combined champion: "Third place in both bouldering and lead plus participation in speed were enough for combined victory, which is a good preparation for the youth Olympic Games. This result doesn't mean as much to me as a medal in a single discipline, but given that combined is gaining importance, it's not insignificant."



Alongside Lukan, Slovenia will be represented at the youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires in October by cadet Lučka Rakovec (ŠD Proteus) as well, who in her most successful season to date became youth European bouldering champion and combined runner-up in Brussels. "My finals climbing wasn't the best, as I made some mistakes and unnecessary attempts, but I'm glad it was still enough for victory," was modest the 17-year-old from Ljubljana, who in August also became youth world bouldering runner-up, excellent prospects for continuing the season: "The youth European champion title means a lot to me, especially since I focused more on lead this season, but I also achieved good results in bouldering and I think this is very good preparation for the youth Olympic Games."



Her first medals at major competitions were celebrated in the Belgian capital by 15-year-old Betka Debevec (PK Kamnik), bronze among older girls: "I was very satisfied with my climbing, as I really enjoyed it and was relaxed. This is my first medal, so I'm especially happy to have won it at the European championships. The boulders suited me well, in my style, and the atmosphere was of course very pleasant too." The other Slovenian finalist among older girls Lucija Tarkuš (AK Impol Slovenska Bistrica) was sixth. With the fairytale seven medals for Slovenia in Brussels, the girls were joined by cadet Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica), who with May silver in lead and this time sixth in bouldering secured bronze at the youth European combined championships.



The Slovenian youth team also achieved a series of excellent placements: Dominika Kodra (PK Kamnik) and Letija Fajfar (AO PD Kranj) were 7th and 9th among older girls respectively, Matic Kotar (ŠD Proteus) 8th among youths, Žiga Zajc (PS Ascendo) 11th among cadets, Tjaša Slemenšek (Šaleški AO) 11th and Urška Repušič (ŠPO APD Kozjak) 12th among youth girls, and Bine Meke (PS DPČ Šmartno) 13th among older boys.