Mia Krampl and Luka Potočar qualify for Paris 2024 Olympics
22.06.2024
A triumphant day for the Slovenian sport climbing team in Budapest! Mia Krampl and Luka Potočar secured their tickets to the Paris Olympics in August on June 22 in the semifinals of the final stage of the Olympic qualifiers in Budapest, so they will represent Slovenia at the most important sporting event of the year alongside Olympic title defender Janja Garnbret. Mia Krampl will travel to the Olympics for the second time, while Potočar has earned the historic first Slovenian men's qualification for the Olympics in sport climbing.
After three competition days and today's semifinals, the Olympic qualifiers in Budapest have moved towards decisive qualifications. After tomorrow's final, ten women and ten men will officially be known for the Paris 2024 Olympics, where Janja Garnbret will defend her Olympic title in August. But today it's already clear that nothing will change for the Slovenians tomorrow, so we can already celebrate the qualification of Mia Krampl and Luka Potočar for the Olympics.
"It took some time to calculate the points, but the International Federation of Sport Climbing brought the names and I'm happy to confirm that both Mia Krampl and Luka Potočar have qualified for the Olympics, which is beyond what we aimed for. We always said we didn't want Janja to go to the Olympics alone, now she really won't be going alone. I'm very pleased that it worked out for the guys, as everyone was skeptical about it, but I insisted that it was possible. And Peharc and Potočar were close, unfortunately it didn't work out for Peharc, but Luka put on a show and deserves to go to the Olympics. For the women, it was essential that one candidate go, we even had three in the semifinals, Mia was the best in all rounds and deservedly advanced. I can't believe it! Until the federation confirmed it, I held back," was excited Gorazd Hren, the selector of the Slovenian sport climbing team, whose right-hand men are coaches Luka Fonda and Domen Švab.
Thursday's boulder qualifiers and Friday's lead qualifiers were followed on Saturday, June 22, at the final stage of the Olympic qualifiers in Budapest by semifinals in both disciplines with four Slovenian representatives, among whom - just like in May in Shanghai - Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj) was the most successful, earning tomorrow's final with 7th place in the semifinals (4th in lead and 12th in boulders): "Today was a long day, first waiting in the warm-up area due to rain, as the competition was delayed by two hours, so we had to warm up again and wait even longer. Solid result in boulders, but I knew I had to climb lead really well if I wanted to make the final. Despite the difficult route, I managed it, so I still can't comprehend what's happening, but I'm already happy that we'll fight again tomorrow."
"The biggest challenge of today was the stress. The last three days were really stressful and I can't say how happy I am that it's over, although I usually enjoy competitions and stress, this was something completely different. Already after boulders, a big stone fell off my shoulders, lead was easier to climb. For tomorrow, I now know I can just enjoy and climb relaxed, so I'm finally looking forward to tomorrow," laughed the 23-year-old climber from Golnik, who will now compete at the Olympics for the second time after Tokyo in 2021, but is still waiting for tomorrow's official results: "Until the competition is over, until it's confirmed that I have the Olympic ticket, I don't want to celebrate. Of course I'm looking forward to the final and know the result is promising, but until the last moment I don't want to celebrate too early. I haven't comprehended it yet and I think tomorrow will be a very emotional day."
Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica) also qualified for the Olympics, but he too doesn't dare to celebrate fully yet: "According to unofficial results, it should be enough for the Olympics, but I feel I shouldn't celebrate too much until it's for sure." At the Olympics, each country can have only two representatives per gender, and the host French have an additional guaranteed spot. By the current tally, there are three French ahead of Potočar, so thanks to them too - tomorrow one will secure the host spot, one the best final result - the Jesenice native will officially receive his ticket to Paris tomorrow, the historic first Slovenian men's for the Olympics.
"Above all, I'm satisfied with boulders, where I showed I can get a good haul. With lead, though - I went well to the key point and was angry later, as I knew I could have done more, but that's lead climbing," said the 22-year-old from Jesenice, 12th in today's semifinals (11th in lead and 13th in boulders), so he can cheer relaxed tomorrow, then face new challenges: "Until now it was very tough, as everything revolved around these two competitions, which is really incredible. I think only now will I look back and see what we all did with the coaches and I'm really happy it paid off, but there are definitely many tough challenges ahead."
Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica), who finished the semifinals in 18th place (13th in lead and 19th in boulders), and Lucija Tarkuš (AK Impol Slovenska Bistrica), 19th in Budapest (18th in lead and 16th in boulders), also competed in the semifinals. In Budapest, Slovenian colors were also represented by Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka), who finished 23rd, Sara Čopar (ŠPO PD Celje Matica) 25th, Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj) 28th, and Zan Lovenjak Sudar (PK Scena) 41st.
The final of the top eight will be tomorrow, Sunday, June 23, with the women, including Mia Krampl, competing in boulders at 10:00 and lead at 12:05. The men's final follows with boulders at 15:30 and lead at 17:35. You can follow the competitions for free on the Olympic Channel website.