13.05.2013
At the weekend of May 11 and 12, 2013, the best sport climbers competed for the third time in a row at Log near Brezovica in the municipality of Log - Dragomer at the World Cup boulder competition. Among 116 competitors from 29 countries worldwide, 13 Slovenian representatives also participated, 5 girls and 8 boys. Jernej Kruder, Klemen Bečan, and our best sport climber Mina Markovič advanced to the semifinals. Mina was defending last year's victory from the World Cup boulders here at Log and was the only one to qualify for the evening final. She achieved an excellent 5th place, while the still unbeatable Austrian Anna Stöhr won.
After last year's victory at the World Cup boulder competition here at Log, Mina Markovič climbed excellently again this time and convincingly qualified for the final, where she even more relaxed and confidently demonstrated excellent form, reaching two out of 4 tops and finishing 5th. She was beaten by the unbeatable boulderer this year, Austrian Anna Stöhr, winner of all three previous IFSC 2013 World Cup boulder events.
Among the women, alongside Anna Stöhr, Frenchwoman Melissa Le Neve was also excellent, having climbed three boulders just like Anna but in more attempts. Third was last year's second-place finisher here, British climber Shauna Coxsey with two boulders topped, fourth was the excellent Japanese competitor Akiyo Noguchi, fifth our Mina, also with two tops like Shauna, but attempts in the problems decided the third step of the podium. Sixth was another Frenchwoman, Anne-Laure Chevrier, who surprised many with her qualification to the final.
Among the men, we certainly missed last year's winner Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) in the final, who only achieved 10th place, as well as the 2011 World Cup winner here, Frenchman Guillaume Glairon Mondet (12th this time), excellent Austrian Jakob Schubert (9th), also winner of the penultimate World Cup boulders in Kitzbühel, and Kilian Fischhuber (15th today), World Cup boulder winner in 2008, 2009, and 2011, last year 2nd at the World Championships in boulders and 2nd in the overall World Cup boulders standings. The unbeatable Canadian Sean McColl won this time, second was German Jan Hojer, third Russian Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, 2012 world boulder champion, 4th Swiss Cedric Lachat, 5th Australian James Kassay, and 6th Thomas Tauporn from Germany.
Slovenian colors at this World Cup were also represented by Mateja Hohkraut, Julija Kruder, Jera Lenardič, Katja Kadič, Jernej Kruder, Klemen Bečan, Urban Primožič, Domen Škofic, Gregor Vezonik, Jure Bečan, Sergej Epih, and Jure Raztresen. Unfortunately, Maja Vidmar had to withdraw just before the competition due to injury. In addition to Mina, Jernej Kruder and Klemen Bečan also reached the semifinals, but they lacked some strength for the final. Jernej finished 11th, Klemen 17th.
All competitors showed with extraordinary competitiveness and excellent climbing that sport climbing, this time the bouldering discipline, is a highly interesting sport that can match all other top sports in attractiveness and more than deserves to join the Olympic sports family with the lead discipline (expectations for 2020).
The atmosphere at the final at Log was phenomenal, taken care of by as many as 2000 fans encouraged by musicians, Siddharta's bassist Jani Hacet, his musical friend Sergej Ranđelovič, commentators Mojca Breskvar, and radio and TV announcer, journalist Sašo Hribar. 116 competitors (51 women and 65 men) from 29 countries participated in the competition, also from Mexico, Australia, Korea, India, Hong Kong, Ukraine, Poland, Slovakia, for the first time from Israel..., and of course Germany, Austria, Great Britain, USA, Russia, Italy, Switzerland, Finland, Japan, Netherlands, France, Czech Republic, Serbia, Spain, Belgium, Canada, Hungary, Sweden, and of course Slovenia.
STATEMENTS:
Mina Markovič, our best sport climber and last year's World Cup boulder winner here at Log, achieved an excellent fifth place this time, but perhaps one less attempt in the first boulder would have meant a much better placement, maybe even a podium. About the achievement, she said: "The climbing itself was better than the result reflects. I made two small mistakes that cost me a better placement and probably also the podium. Qualifying for the final and good climbing confirmed that I am well prepared, which the result also reflects. Praise also goes to the boulder setters who set top-notch, difficult, and varied boulders that required competitors to show all their abilities."
Regarding qualifications for World Cup boulder finals, she emphasized: "There are a few competitors in the World Cup who always qualify for the final itself, among the others there is a scramble for the final. Double qualification for the final means consolidating a place among the best. From competition to competition, I get confirmation that I can reach higher. So far, I have gained additional strength in the winter months, which I never lacked anyway, as well as additional experience. World Cup lead competitions are approaching soon, first the European Championships in Chamonix on July 12 and 13."
About the competition itself, Mina said: "The competition at Log is top-notch organized, praised by both domestic and foreign competitors. Competitors like to return here, and if the World Cup will be here next year too, we'll definitely see each other - both me and foreign competitors."
The selector of the Slovenian sport climbing team Simon Margon was also at the competition in the role of route setter, and the setters did their job really excellently. "This time's route setting team was very well-coordinated, and I can say it was one of my easiest jobs as a route setter at World Cups and major competitions. We three setters collaborated very well all week, set attractive and very difficult boulders, which were liked by both competitors and the audience.
Through the eyes of the selector, I assess Mina's final performance as very successful, especially I see a big change in her climbing style. Of course, we can look for small mistakes in individual boulders, but this time she squeezed much more out of herself than in previous competitions. If she builds on this a bit more, a very nice continuation of the season is expected."
Simon also gave an assessment of our other competitors at the World Cup at Log: "Kruder faltered under pressure already in the first boulder, otherwise continued with excellent climbing, but unfortunately it wasn't enough for the final. Klemen had some trouble choosing the right combination of moves, and in two boulders he practically ran out of time just before the top. Most of the others performed as expected, maybe I would highlight Domen and Urban, who are undoubtedly capable of much more, but their approach throughout the qualifications was somewhat off. For both, lead climbing is the priority, so this competition meant mainly gaining experience for them."
The organizer of the 2013 World Cup boulder competition in Slovenia Log is the Sport Climbing Commission of the Alpine Association of Slovenia within the International Federation of Sport Climbing IFSC, and the organizer is Športno plezalno društvo Korenjak, which successfully hosted the World Cup boulder competition for the third time in a row.
FINAL OFFICIAL RESULTS of the 2013 World Cup boulders Log:
WOMEN (Source: IFSC):
1. Anna Stöhr (AUT)
2. Melissa Le Neve (FRA)
3. Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
4. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
5. Mina Markovič (SLO)
6. Anne-Laure Chevrier (FRA)
...
25. Mateja Hohkraut (SLO)
39. Julija Kruder (SLO)
44. Jera Lenardič
45. Katja Kadič
Total participants: 51 women.
MEN (Source: IFSC):
1. Sean McColl (CAN).
2. Jan Hojer (GER)
3. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS)
4. Cedric Lachat (SUI)
5. James Kassay (AUS)
6. Thomas Tauporn (GER)
...
11. Jernej Kruder (SLO)
17. Klemen Bečan (SLO)
27. Urban Primožič (SLO)
27. Domen Škofic (SLO)
33. Gregor Vezonik (SLO)
45. Jure Bečan (SLO)
57. Sergej Epih (SLO)
57. Jure Raztresen (SLO)
Total participants: 65 men.
Among 29 nations, first place went to Austria, second to France, third to Germany, and seventh to Slovenia.
Live viewing of the competition was available to everyone during the event also via the website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing IFSC.
Last year at the World Cup boulders at Log, Mina Markovič won, and among the men, Russian Rustam Gelmanov won, who this year stayed out of the final in 10th place. The 2011 World Cup boulder winners at Log were Austrian Anna Stöhr and Frenchman Guillaume Glairon Mondet.
At the other 2013 World Cup boulder events, our competitors achieved the following results: 1st event in Chongqing (China) Jernej Kruder 10th and Mina Markovič 12th; 2nd event in Millau (France): Mina Markovič 18th, Klemen Bečan 20th, and Jernej Kruder 32nd. At the 3rd event in Kitzbühel, our competitors reached the final for the first time this season, Mina Markovič 5th and Jernej Kruder 6th, plus Klemen Bečan 10th, Jure Bečan 17th, Urban Primožič 18th, and Maja Vidmar 35th.
The next IFSC 2013 World Cup boulder event will be in Austrian Innsbruck this weekend, May 17 and 18, 2013, where our three aces who showed the most at this competition will compete: Mina Markovič, Jernej Kruder, and Klemen Bečan.