31.01.2020
Most successful in 2019: Sazonov, Jaklič, Lindič, Garnbret, Kruder, Šuštar and Kovačič.
The Slovenian Mountaineering Association presented awards for top achievements in alpinism, sport and ice climbing, and ski touring for the year 2019 at the alpinism-climbing evening on January 30 at the Economic Exhibition Center in Ljubljana. For lifetime work in alpinism, they honored Anton Sazonov - Tonač, in sport climbing the laurels were again won by Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder, the most successful female alpinist is Sara Jaklič and male alpinist Luka Lindič, the best female ice climber Maja Šuštar and the best ski tourer Luka Kovačič. The PZS also announced on this occasion that the Slovenian World Cup competition in sport climbing is no longer in question and that on September 25 and 26, 2020, in the Stožice hall in Ljubljana, an event is expected like never before.
The gathered were initially greeted by Bogdan Gabrovec, president of the Olympic Committee of Slovenia - Association of Sports Federations, who emphasized that Slovenian athletes are the best ambassadors of our homeland. The vice-president of the Slovenian Mountaineering Association Irena Mrak also proudly congratulated them: "I am proud of everything we/you have achieved in the past year in all four disciplines under the auspices of PZS. Personally, I know the achievements in alpinism better, but based on the achievements in the last year, sport climbing must be put in first place, and you have also achieved really nice results in ice climbing and ski touring." The purpose of the selection by the Slovenian Mountaineering Association (PZS) and its commissions for alpinism, sport climbing, and mountain sports is to evaluate the highest quality alpine ascents, top sport climbing achievements, and successes in ice climbing and ski touring, and to present the most prominent achievements in these sports disciplines to the public.
The most successful alpinists of 2019
The most successful female alpinist of the past year is Sara Jaklič (AO PD Kranj), who forms the top of Slovenian women's alpinism. Her collection of ascents in 2019 is exceptional, in winter she was active mainly in Slovenian and Italian walls, after a painful and tragic experience on the expedition to Pakistan, she dedicated the second part of the season to difficult routes in the Dolomites and Alps. The most successful alpinist 2019 Luka Lindič (AO PD Celje-Matica), currently on an expedition in Patagonia, has in recent years definitively established himself as one of the biggest names in world alpinism. Last year passed for him without major expedition goals, so he focused on difficult routes. The most outstanding were the first ascent The sound of silence in the east wall of Mt. Fay in the Canadian Rocky Mountains and the route End of silence in the wall of the Bavarian Feuerhörndl, which represents part of the so-called Alpine trilogy of difficult tens from the 1990s.
The most promising alpinist Bor Levičnik (AO PD Ljubljana-Matica) shows great talent, enthusiasm, and at the same time maturity in dealing with alpinism; in the 2019 season, he was on his first expedition to the Himalaya and also performed a series of excellent ascents in home mountains. The PZS Alpinism Commission awarded the recognition for special achievements in alpinism to Janez Svoljšak (posthumously) and Miha Zupin (both AO PD Kranj), who excited the Slovenian alpinist public with the success of their expedition to Alaska, but unfortunately Janez's life path unexpectedly and much too early ended during the expedition to the Pakistani Himalaya.
This year's recipient of the lifetime achievement award in alpinism is the mountaineer, alpinist, ski tourer, mountain rescue instructor, and mountain guide Anton Sazonov - Tonač (born in 1937), for more than six decades a constant star of Slovenian alpinism, for older an experienced old fox, for younger generations a legend. The traverse of the Chamonix Aiguilles in 1961 was an important achievement and preparation for the north wall of the Matterhorn via the Schmidt brothers' route, which he completed in 1962 with Brane Pretnar. Successes in the Alps brought him in 1964 the position of leader of the first expedition to Svalbard - Spitsbergen, on which he added a new piece to the treasury of Slovenian expedition experiences. He was a member of the second Yugoslav alpine Himalayan expedition (JAHO) Kangbachen 1965, on which with Pavle Dimitrov he reached the highest point and bivouacked at 7800 meters, only a hundred meters below the summit. In 1968, with Aleš Kunaver and Stane Belak - Šrauf, he made the first winter ascent in the Čop Pillar in the Triglav North Wall and on the expedition to the Hindukush with Šrauf climbed the unconquered six-thousander Lunkho e Hevad. The next year, 1969, he participated in the successful JAHO III expedition to Annapurna 2, in 1976 he led a successful expedition that via a first ascent in the west wall conquered the summit of Trisul 1. Thus, Tonač had an important role in all three goals of the learning period of Slovenian Himalayanism - Kangbachen (7902 m), Annapurna 2 (7937 m), and Trisul 1 (7120 m). Even in mature years, he uses rich knowledge and experiences in organizing rescue services, guide organizations, guiding, dedicates himself to mentorship in establishing new alpinist sections and educating young alpinists.
The most successful sport climbers of 2019
The most successful female sport climber is for the fourth time in a row Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO), also crowned as the athlete of the year 2019. Last year, she was the first in history to win three world champion titles and also a ticket to the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games and became the first sport climber to win all World Cup (WC) competitions in bouldering, in addition, she stood on the WC podium ten times in total and won the overall title in bouldering and combination. The most successful male sport climber is again Jernej Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje-Matica) with one bouldering victory in WC and placement in the top ten both in the overall WC standings and at the world championship.
Recognitions for top achievements in competitions were received by the world vice-champion in difficulty Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), the second Slovenian passenger to the Olympic Games, Lučka Rakovec (PK FA), European champion in difficulty and fourth in the overall WC standings in this discipline, Urška Repušič (ŠPO APD Kozjak Maribor), European champion in bouldering and third at the World Games, Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica), European vice-champion in bouldering and seventh at the world championship in difficulty, Mina Markovič (ŠPK Plus), fourth at EP in difficulty, Katja Kadić (PK Scena) eighth boulderer in the world, Tjaša Kalan (AO PD Kranj), seventh at EP in difficulty, Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj) for bronze medal WC in bouldering and overall eighth place, Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica), finalist of WC competitions in difficulty, and Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka) and Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica), fourth or eighth at EP in difficulty.
The Slovenian Mountaineering Association also announced that the Slovenian World Cup competition in sport climbing is no longer in question. In the Stožice hall in Ljubljana, on September 25 and 26, 2020, together with the general sponsor of the Slovenian national team in sport climbing Prva osebna zavarovalnica and Val 202, following the example of some larger climbing spectacles around the world, they are preparing a fresh and attractive event like never before in Slovenia.
Recognitions for promising sport climbers for results at the world and European youth championship and European youth cup competitions were received by Sara Čopar (ŠPO PD Celje-Matica), world and European youth champion in combination, Liza Novak (PK Laško), Lucija Tarkuš (AK Impol Slovenska Bistrica), Žiga Zajc (PK Scena), Jaka Jaki (DRPK) and Luka Jerman (PK Kamnik). The recognition in para-climbing was received by Gregor Selak (DRPK) for the bronze medal at the para-climbing world championship.
The most successful in ice climbing and ski touring 2019
The most successful female ice climber is again Maja Šuštar (AO PD Domžale), for the third time in a row overall winner of the Slovenian-Croatian-Serbian cup and overall third in the European cup in ice climbing. For the most successful ski tourer was named for the second time Luka Kovačič (Society for the Development of Ski Touring), last year at the world championship in the seniors category 14th in ascent and 21st individual.
The recipients of the awards said ...
ANTON SAZONOV - TONAČ, recipient of the lifetime achievement award in alpinism: "I am pleasantly surprised by the lifetime achievement award, which brings my memory back to alpinist beginnings. Later, when I stopped with larger ascents, I dedicated myself to passing on experiences to the young, so they would be safer in the mountains. Although many things happen in the mountains, one must always consider that the summit is not the goal, the goal is to come home alive. Some American general once said: I don't need dead heroes, I need living fighters - and I somewhat stuck to that, to know when to retreat in time. Several times I was in a position where I was lucky to be here today. Alpinism is my life, I love nature, I love mountains - and alpinism has also given me joy in life. Today, the young surprise me, I am enthusiastic about what they can do. In the past, we were afraid, today we can just stare at their achievements, so sincere congratulations to all the young ladies and gentlemen."
SARA JAKLIČ, most successful female alpinist 2019: "In the climbing season 2019, I focused mainly on the expedition to Pakistan, which was also the main goal of the season. Therefore, at the beginning of the year, I tried to spend as much time as possible in Slovenian mountains, which are an excellent training ground also for high Himalayan walls. For a short time, I went to the Dolomites, then all free time until the expedition dedicated to hill walking with a heavy backpack and acclimatization in neighboring Austria. After the expedition, I tried to make the best use of the rest of the summer in Slovenian mountains and short trips to Italian Dolomites. This year, with Marija Jeglič, we are going to Norway, which offers many opportunities for climbing mixed ice-rock routes. For this summer, I don't have formed plans yet, but certainly in a longer time interval, I expect some expedition to high mountain ranges."
LUKA LINDIČ, most successful alpinist 2019: "Although I am less present on the Slovenian scene than years ago, the feedback from the Slovenian climbing/alpinist community is still the most important to me, so I am always happy about this title. In 2019, I wanted to climb at as high a level as possible in mixed routes in big walls and difficult multi-pitch routes. Both succeeded well with the routes The sound of Silence in Canada and The end of Silence in Bavaria. Hmm. Interesting coincidence of names of two routes that most marked my past year. In the last two, three years, a lot has changed in my head. I am much better at listening to myself and being honest with myself both in training and in decision-making. Too many friends or acquaintances have died in the mountains in this period to train and go climbing in the mountains with the same mindset as years ago. I know that danger can never be completely removed from our activity. Less is more is the principle I increasingly adhere to. When I feel everything is right, I am capable of a very good ascent. On the other hand, as soon as I feel one thing is not right, I often don't go at all. Currently, I am in Patagonia with Luka Krajnc, the continuation of the year is still in planning."
JANJA GARNBRET, most successful female sport climber 2019: "For me, the first highlight of the season was definitely the win in all World Cup competitions in bouldering climbing, later also three gold medals at the world championship, which was the highlight of the season and the ticket to the Olympic Games as the cherry on top. I progressed in all possible aspects - both in physical preparedness, which was at a much higher level than the year before, but I also made a big step forward in mental preparedness to stay focused and concentrated through all competitions. I approach this year's season with even greater focus. With coach Roman Krajnik, we are working hard and preparing for the main competition of the season. Certainly, the titles from the profession and journalists mean a lot to me, but that wouldn't be if I didn't enjoy what I do. So I go into the new season with a lot of motivation and good mood."
JERNEJ KRUDER, most successful male sport climber 2019: "Considering the long competitive season, I remained with few good results, in addition, I had too little time left for climbing on rock. But nevertheless, I am proud of two results of the season. I am happy that I proved to myself that the 2018 season was not just a coincidence, and I managed to win a difficult World Cup in Moscow again. The second result is more natural, as I managed to climb another 8c boulder problem on rock. After the injury at the end of the year, I am now hardly waiting for full trust in my hand and hope that by the first international competition I can gain as much strength and self-confidence as possible. Otherwise, I am happy that despite the regression in the overall standings, I still prove that I can reach the world top, and that the public still notices it."
MAJA ŠUŠTAR, most successful female ice climber 2019: "Realistically speaking, Slovenian ice or dry-tooling climbing is still light years behind the successes of Slovenian sport climbers. With us, this is still a climbing discipline in development, so every step forward is important. What means the most to me is that last year I succeeded in a route with grade D13, with which I moved the boundary of the hardest female climbed route in dry-tooling by a few degrees. With this, we stepped a step closer to better ice climbers in the world, so the recognition from our umbrella organization made me very happy."
LUKA KOVAČIČ, most successful ski tourer 2019: "Ski touring is every year a complement to my summer mountaineering season. Although in Slovenia in recent years it is not the easiest to find terrains for training on skis, every year I try again to try to keep in touch with the competition. So last year, probably the most meaningful to me was the success at the European championship. I hope that in Slovenia soon some young hope is found again, who will help drive this machine forward. The recognition means to me that I am still doing well and in the right direction. This year, I am more dedicated to the summer season, because given that outside crocuses are growing, quality training is not possible and realistically I could not be competitive at the highest level, where I want to reach, so I will not participate in the biggest competitions this year. In the coming years, I hope for some meter of snow, so we can happily and with full steam train on snow and reach for the highest places."