Most Successful in 2021

Most Successful in 2021: Garnbret, Potočar, Kukovec, Petek, Stražar, Klančnik Pobežin and Kovačič.

The Slovenian Mountaineering Association presented awards for top achievements in alpinism, sport climbing and ski mountaineering for the year 2021 at the alpinism-climbing evening on March 24 at the Exhibition and Convention Centre in Ljubljana. In sport climbing, the laurels went to Janja Garnbret and Luka Potočar, for lifetime achievement in alpinism they honored Dušan Kukovec, the most successful female alpinist is Anja Petek and male alpinist Luka Stražar, the top ski mountaineers are Karmen Klančnik Pobežin and Luka Kovačič. Because due to the coronavirus epidemic there was no award ceremony last year, the PZS Alpinism Commission also announced the most successful in alpinism in 2020: Sara Jaklič and Marija Jeglič, and Luka Lindič.

The gathered were initially greeted by Tomaž Barada, Vice President of the Olympic Committee of Slovenia - Association of Sports Federations, who emphasized that "having such an organization with such athletes and results is an honor and desire of every country". The Vice President of the Slovenian Mountaineering Association Martin Šolar also proudly congratulated them: "Alpinism, the parade horse of Slovenian mountaineering, is the stem from which mountaineering sports branches have developed, which particularly excite us in recent years and show us a bright sporting future. History does not speak about sport climbing and competitive ski mountaineering, it is happening today and here together with alpinism. And we in the Slovenian Mountaineering Association are extremely proud of that." The purpose of the selection by the Slovenian Mountaineering Association (PZS) and its commissions for alpinism, sport climbing, and mountain sports is to evaluate the highest quality alpinistic ascents, top sport climbing achievements, and successes in ski mountaineering, and to present the most prominent achievements in these sports branches to the public.

Most successful sport climbers of 2021
The most successful female sport climber is Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO) for the fifth time in a row, the first Olympic champion in the history of sport climbing, also crowned as the female athlete of the year 2021. Although she subordinated the entire season to the performance in Tokyo, she took four more victories in the World Cup, won the overall lead in difficulty and was second overall in bouldering. She confirmed her excellence in natural climbing areas and as the first woman in the world on sight managed ascents with grade 8c. The most successful male sport climber is Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica) for the first time, who at the World Championships in Moscow with second place in difficulty won the first male medal for Slovenia at world championships. In the World Cup in difficulty, he stepped on the podium for the first time and finished the season in fourth place in the overall standings.

Awards for top achievements in competitions were received by the world vice-champion in combination Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), who in natural walls made an ascent with grade 8c, Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica), who stepped on the World Cup podium in difficulty for the first time and won fourth place overall, in natural climbing areas she made an on-sight ascent with grade 8b+, with red point the direction of difficulty 8c/c+, Lučka Rakovec (PK FA), fifth in the overall SP in difficulty, Katja Debevec and Lana Skušek (both PK Scena), finalists in SP in bouldering or difficulty, Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj), sixth at the world championships in bouldering, Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica), finalist in SP in difficulty, who in natural walls made an ascent with grade 9b, and Gregor Vezonik and Milan Preskar (both PK Kamnik), finalists in SP in bouldering or difficulty.

Awards to promising sport climbers for results at the world and European youth championships were received by Sara Čopar (ŠPO PD Celje-Matica), Lucija Tarkuš (AK Impol Slovenska Bistrica), Liza Novak (PK Laško), Lina Funa (ŠPK Plus), Zala Mlakar Starič (PK FA), Gorazd Jurekovič (ŠPO PD Radovljica), Timotej Romšak (PK Kamnik) and Lovro Črep (Šaleški AO).

Most successful alpinists of 2021
The most successful female alpinist of the past year is Anja Petek (AK Rinka), who drew attention to herself in previous seasons, and from her list of ascents in 2021, diversity and demonstration of mastery in both winter and summer conditions emanate. Although her free climbing level (yet) does not reach that of her predecessors among the best female alpinists, she convinced the expert commission with a thoughtfully bold approach and serious alpinistic character. The most successful alpinist of 2021 is Luka Stražar (Academic Alpinist Section), who crowned the season with a successful expedition to Rolwaling, where with Nejc Marčič they climbed the first ascent Slovenian Direct in the northwest wall of Mount Tsoboje (6683 m), which is considered one of the most beautiful routes in the world alpinistic scene in 2021. He also made successful ascents in the legendary route Divine Providence (Grand Pilier d'Angle, Mont Blanc; in partnership with Nejc Marčič) and Ula's route in the Triglav Wall (in partnership with Jernej Kruder).

The most promising alpinist 2021 Krištof Frelih (AO PD Radovljica) dedicated the year with fellow climbers from the Slovenian Youth Alpinist Team (SMAR) to an expedition to Peru in the Cordillera Blanca range, where he made a series of excellent ascents. The PZS Alpinism Commission awarded recognitions for special achievements in alpinism to Nejc Marčič (AO PD Radovljica) for the first ascent in the NW wall of the Nepalese six-thousander Tsoboje, in partnership with Luka Stražar, Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje-Matica) for the free repeat of the demanding mixed route No Siesta in the north wall of Grandes Jorasses and his new routes Butterfly in the pre-wall of Križevnik and other ascents, and Luka Lindič (AO PD Celje-Matica) for the 1000-meter demanding mixed first ascent Heart of Stone in the west wall of Alaskan Mount Huntington and other ascents, and highlighted the expedition of the Slovenian Youth Alpinist Team (SMAR) to Peru, on which Matija Volontar and Bor Levičnik climbed the 1500-meter first ascent Virtual Insanity, Blaž Karner, Matevž Štular and Peruvian alpinist Aritza Monasterio the 1000-meter first ascent Knights and Days.

This year's recipient of the award for lifetime achievement in alpinism is the alpinist, mountain rescuer, sailor, and world traveler Dušan Kukovec (born in 1928), who with Janez Resnik already in 1969 as the first Slovenian climbed the classic route in Eiger. The elder of the Šaleški Alpinist Section (ŠAO) and GRS - Celje Station is also one of the oldest alpinists and mountain rescuers among us. He was one of the founders and long-time chief of ŠAO, already in 1970 he organized an alpinist expedition to Norway, and his alpinist path led him besides home mountains also to Paklenica, Dolomites, Central Alps, Caucasus, Pamir, and New Zealand Alps. With a kayak, he tested himself in the waters of Euphrates and Tigris and along the South American Orinoco.

Most successful alpinists of 2020
Because due to the coronavirus epidemic there was no award ceremony last year, the PZS Alpinism Commission also revealed the outstanding achievements for 2020. The pair Sara Jaklič (AO PD Kranj) and Marija Jeglič (AO PD Ljubljana-Matica) are the most successful female alpinists 2020, who crowned the year with an expedition to the Norwegian island Senja and two first ascents, and left an excellent impression in home mountains too. The most successful alpinist 2020 is Luka Lindič (AO PD Celje-Matica) with three first ascents - Mir in Patagonia, Wolke 7 in the wall of Bavarian Feuerhörndl, and Limited in Freedom in the Gailtal Alps. The most promising alpinist 2020 Blaž Karner (AO PD Ljubljana-Matica) strung good ascents all year. Awards for special achievements in alpinism in 2020 were received by Gašper Pintar (AO PD Ljubljana-Matica) for an excellent collection of ascents on his first visit to Patagonia, Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje-Matica) for the first ascent Mir in Patagonia, David Debeljak (AO PD Rašica) for the ascent in the east wall of Torre Egger, and Jernej Kruder (AO PD Celje-Matica) for the free repeat of his first ascent Ellipsis in Bela peč. The KA PZS also highlighted the very good season 2020 of Luka Stražar and Matija Volontar and Bor Levičnik.

Most successful in ski mountaineering 2021
The most successful female ski mountaineer 2021 is Karmen Klančnik Pobežin (TSK LiMa), for many years the best Slovenian competitor in ski mountaineering. For the most successful male ski mountaineer, Luka Kovačič (Society for the Development of Ski Mountaineering) was named for the third time, last year 12th in ascent and 16th individual among seniors at the world championships. The award to promising received Klemen Španring (TSK LiMa), eighth in ascent at the world championships among juniors.

The recipients of the awards said ...

JANJA GARNBRET, most successful female sport climber 2021: "The Olympic year gave me new experiences besides the gold medal, a different perspective, I got to know myself and training even better, and learned a lot about competition. Such pressure as I was under at the Olympic Games, I haven't experienced yet, and from that I learned a lot and it will help me further. It's true that this is some peak, the desire of every athlete to get an Olympic medal, but three months after the OI I was emotionally exhausted, but I found new motivation. In competitive terms, I still have goals, challenges, also the OI in Paris are approaching. When I achieved what I so strongly desired, new possibilities opened up for me in natural climbing areas, I found routes that I want to climb, so I have challenges there too."
LUKA POTOČAR, most successful male sport climber 2021: "In 2021, I certainly proved to myself and others what results I am capable of achieving. Second place in difficulty at the world championships at nineteen years shows my potential also for the upcoming seasons and of course the Olympic Games. The competition is already very demanding among Slovenians and I'm glad it's so. The award for the most successful sport climber is good motivation and confirmation that it's worth striving and training hard."

DUŠAN KUKOVEC, recipient of the award for lifetime achievement in alpinism: "In some magazine, I saw that Hitler received the German alpinists who climbed the Eiger wall, and said that only the German nation can do that - so we went there then! When I first stepped among mountain guides, where you can also insure yourself, they asked me where I was from - they didn't know Slovenia, I had to mention Yugoslavia. They said, why should we come here, since we were never such good climbers, and that they can't insure us. Although we experienced insults, this is really a wall that you can only dream of - and with Janez Resnik we climbed it! In those times, we had completely simple equipment, with Vanč Potrč we slept on all peaks of Kamnik-Savinja Alps, also in winter, without any equipment, we only had some sheet smeared with wax. The award means a lot to me, but it's hard to say what alpinism gave me - alpinism is something where defeats make you stronger. When you climb a wall, you forget all who insulted you or didn't take you seriously, so you empty all the bitter and can start anew."

ANJA PETEK, most successful female alpinist 2021: "My last year's alpinistic activity was most marked by the fact that I really relaxed in winter conditions and had good winter ascents. Also professionally, I started climbing - trees, because I do high-altitude work, and consequently this helps me, also to raise the level of climbing on rock. I realized that exploration in the hills suits me very well, I also tried myself in first ascents and saw that my head allows it, that I can explore without information about the routes. I am grateful and surprised for the title of best alpinist, it means recognition to me that I am investing effort correctly and that it is noticed."

LUKA STRAŽAR, most successful alpinist 2021: "The award is the cherry on top of a wonderful year and I'm sorry that I can't meet the climbing crowd on this occasion. The year 2021 was eventful in all areas of my life, that many alpinistic ideas also succeeded, I have to thank my family and my climbing partners."

KARMEN KLANČNIK POBEŽIN, most successful female ski mountaineer 2021: "The last ski mountaineering season was simple for me, less burdened with competitions abroad, but spiced with competitions on home soil. Winter served us excellent conditions for training, which I used mainly for basic training and preparation for upcoming seasons, but also for relaxed fun on snow with children, which served as good regeneration after harder trainings. The title of best ski mountaineer means a lot to me, as it is a nice confirmation that I am on the right path for bigger competitions in the next seasons, and I quietly hope also for an entry ticket to the upcoming Olympic Games."