On the same day two first ascents...

On the same day two first ascents by Primorska and Ljubljana teams in Patagonia.



Slovenian alpinists Dejan Koren (AO PD Vipava), Rok Kurinčič (Soški AO), Boštjan Mikuž (AO PD Ajdovščina), Domen Kastelic and Domen Petrovčič (both Academic Mountaineering Section) on an alpine expedition in Patagonia ensured that the steep and exposed east face of Cerro San Lorenzo, on the same day, November 21, 2015, after several unsuccessful attempts by foreign alpinists, received two first ascents – No fiesta and EXIT –, both in alpine style and with top Slovenian signature. Kastelic and Petrovčič made good use of the short weather window and beforehand climbed a new route in the southwest face of Cerro Hermosa.

The east face of Cerro San Lorenzo was the main and interesting goal of at least seven expeditions, but remained unclimbed until the arrival of the Slovenian alpine expedition Patagonia 2015 – Cerro San Lorenzo, which took place in November 2015 and was supported by the Alpine Association of Slovenia. The typical Patagonian bad and windy weather did not dampen the Slovenian alpinists' enthusiasm for Patagonia, and so on November 20 both teams headed under the east face of Cerro San Lorenzo (3706 m), which they climbed the next day via two first ascents: No fiesta/No party (ED+, 1600 m) and EXIT/Exit (ED, 1000 m).



The Primorska team Dejan Koren - DeKo, Rok Kurinčič and Boštjan Mikuž started climbing in the east face of Cerro San Lorenzo in the gully of the main summit on the evening of November 20 and in continuous climbing reached the edge of the steep and objectively dangerous face at 2 p.m. the next day via a new route and junction with the Sudafricana ridge route. The No fiesta/No party route, 1600 m long, they rated as extremely difficult ED+, the elevated highest grade on the French six-grade scale. Due to very strong wind, they had to forgo the summit via the otherwise already climbed ridge and returned to base, reaching it after a 40-hour continuous effort.



"After the initial approach and trail-breaking to the face, we climbed the first half of the route unroped at an average slope of 70°, locally up to 80°. As the face steepened, we roped up at night and belayed to the end of the route or face. Followed steep pitches up to 90° slope and WI5+, M4/5 rating. The ice was very hard and compressed from spindrift. Climbing was primarily hindered by wind, which increased with altitude and in gusts exceeded 100 km/h in the summit section. We had trouble preparing liquids, impossible due to the steep and exposed face, especially the strong wind. When we reached the face edge and junction with the Sudafricana route, wind forced descent via the ridge and north face. There we did about 40 rappels and then hiked below the east face and on to Puesto San Lorenzo base, reached after 40 hours of continuous approach, climb and descent," described the climbing expedition leader Dejan Koren, highlighting as key to the new Patagonian feat the mix of experience and favorable conditions: "Crucial was a sufficiently long good weather window, nearly perfect conditions on approach, in the face and descent. Plus sufficient physical and mental prep of all three climbers, able to climb steep sections unroped without protection, as speed is key on such ascents, meaning safety too by spending less time in the objectively dangerous zone. Mileage was decisive for all three to handle this high and locally dangerous face in relatively short time."



The Ljubljana team Domen Kastelic and Domen Petrovčič, who on November 11 already climbed a new difficult route (TD-, 1100 m) in the then unclimbed southwest face of Cerro Hermosa, approached the far left end of the seven km wide east face of Cerro San Lorenzo on November 20 in eight hours and after bivouac on the glacier entered the route between Pilar Sur tower and east summit Cumbre Sur the next day. As the alpinists noted in the expedition report, snow-ice conditions were satisfactory, harder sections mostly in lower and upper parts, and due to east orientation also exposed to less falling snow. In the technically easier central part, progress was faster with low exposure. The route finish was puzzling due to crumbly summit part to the last meters. Fortunately ice-covered, and after 13 hours they reached the face edge via new 1000 m EXIT/Exit route, rated ED extremely difficult. Same day rappelled on ice ropes to the other unknown south side and made second bivouac in valley by lake, next day full-day hike to base.



"An important step is the first ascent of the east face of Cerro San Lorenzo. The routes' specialty beyond difficulty is objective danger," rated the Primorska team's ascent top alpinist Silvo Karo, Patagonia climbing expert. "In typical Patagonian weather the guys succeeded in climbing two routes in the demanding east face of Cerro San Lorenzo. Patience paid off to climb this difficult and especially objectively very dangerous face at expedition's end," commented Patagonia alpine feats Miha Habjan, PZS Alpine Commission head.