OSP Project for the Future of Slovenian Climbing Crags

Sport climbing is experiencing a real boom, both at competitive and recreational levels, and natural climbing crags are increasingly visited and burdened. Most equipped routes are the product of the work of passionate climbers, but with growing visitation, the needs for maintenance and re-equipping of crags, as well as upgrading the work of route equippers, are also increasing. A new milestone is the OSP project, or Equip Slovenian Climbing Crags, whose purpose is to ensure sustainable development of crags, continue to enable climbers free use, ensure safer climbing, reduce the negative impact of climbers on the natural environment and local residents, and provide route equippers with appropriate payment.



In Slovenia, there are around 120 equipped natural climbing crags and more than 5500 equipped climbing routes. Equipping them began in the 1970s, and most are the result of the work of dedicated equippers who often contributed drills and anchors themselves and spent countless hours so that today we can climb thousands of routes in Slovenia; with increasing visitation, the needs for maintenance and re-equipping of crags and upgrading the work of equippers are growing.



Also due to the successes of Slovenian competitors who have elevated Slovenia to a sport climbing powerhouse with their achievements, the Olympic future of this sport, the desire for exciting recreation in nature, and affordability, more and more people are climbing; climbing has become a sport for everyone and a tourist opportunity, but we must not forget nature, emphasizes climber, coach, and route equiper Jurij Ravnik: "Natural climbing crags are an important playground for many people, from young to old, from recreational to top athletes. They encourage love for recreation and spending time in nature, foster respect for nature, and provide young people with holistic sports development. With proper sustainable management, the tourist potential is also very large, as equipped crags not only attract a large number of climbing tourists who often revive neglected regions, but also offer others the opportunity for active exploration of Slovenia."



Since the Slovenian climbing community is growing year by year, we must be aware of the impact it has on crags and their surroundings; on nature, people, and equipment in routes. Therefore, a group of dedicated climbers who want to keep crags safe, accessible, and maintained launched the OSP project, or Equip Slovenian Climbing Crags, under the auspices of the Alpine Association of Slovenia last September, coordinated by Štefan Wraber: "The OSP project calls on all crag visitors to actively participate in their care and to donate to the Slovenian Crags Fund, which will take over the task of re-equipping and maintaining climbing routes and crags in Slovenia. Monitoring the condition of equipment in routes, planned, quality, and professional route equipping, and resolving issues with local communities will ensure the preservation and development of crags and carefree climbing pleasures in the future." As one of the more prominent and engaged climbers from the younger, sport-climbing oriented generation says, the OSP project was created based on examples from abroad, such as Access Fund in the USA, Greenspits in France, Dorset bolting fund in the UK, and many other smaller, local projects that collect funds for renovating local crags, "but our project is certainly one of the first similar ones where we try to connect all national crags into a unified maintenance system".



"The goals of the OSP project and the crags fund are to ensure sustainable development of crags, continue to enable climbers free and uninterrupted use, ensure safer climbing, reduce the negative impact of climbers on the natural environment and local residents, and also fairly reward the efforts of equippers with appropriate payment and motivate them to re-equip worn routes," explains Wraber. In the winter months, they focused on promoting the project, encouraging safe climbing, and collecting contributions for crag maintenance. To raise the culture of behavior, they created the Crags Pledge, started inventorying routes and equipment condition at crags, prepared a form for reporting crag issues, set up a computer database of routes, equipment, equippers, and interventions, and established a network of regional coordinators and a professional group for crag equipping. (full report >>>) "In 2017, 4,014.49 euros were collected, 1,338.80 euros spent. In 2018, 2020.57 euros were collected and 18 euros spent by the end of April. The Crags Fund will start active work at crags in the coming months; we plan maintenance and re-equipping at Črni Kal, Mišja peč, Osp, Bohinjska Bela, below Reška planina, Čolnišče, Logarska dolina, Završnica, Turnec, and Kotečnik," concludes Wraber.



Individuals can contribute by bank transfer, PayPal donation, SMS message PROJEKTOSP5 to 1919, or purchase of a t-shirt and brush for holds with the project logo. Clubs, companies, organizations can contribute by bank transfer or in-kind contributions needed for route equipping and fund operations.



Jernej Kruder, currently leading the overall World Cup standings in bouldering after an exceptional start to the competition season, also swears by climbing at natural crags. On May 1, he climbed the route Water world rated 9a at Osp, and otherwise is a regular visitor to Slovenian crags and supporter of the OSP project: "The charm of rock climbing for me is being in nature, in fresh air, and deciding for myself when and what to climb. My favorite crag is the local Kotečnik, but I happily change locations all over Slovenia. Climbing is a very safe sport as long as you do everything right, but after climbing technique knowledge, the second most important thing is equipment. As an equiper, I know how much effort it takes to prepare routes, but that also means cost. I think every lover of natural crags can donate a few symbolic euros without a guilty conscience."



"Re-equipping means maintaining a safe condition or updating poorly equipped routes. You have to imagine it as maintaining a home or car, because nothing lasts forever, and we entrust our lives to the equipment in routes! We are entering a period when the initial equipment will be outdated, and more emphasis will need to be placed on preserving the existing rather than adding new routes. This work is very responsible with the minimum assumption that the equiper has completed the appropriate course. But it also involves years of experience, so competent persons must do this work, and the less experienced should gain as much necessary knowledge as possible at their side," emphasizes the technical leader of the OSP project, Ravnik. Rajko Zajc, one of the most active Slovenian route equippers in recent years, has joined the team as the equippers' leader, and as part of the professional group for crag equipping, Tomo Česen, Vili Guček, and Albin Simonič, veterans of equipping in our country, also contribute their invaluable experience and knowledge.