Piolet d'Or 2012

Two Slovenian first ascents nominated!

The 20th Piolet d'Or award ceremony for the best and most important mountaineering ascent in the world in 2011 will take place from March 21 to 24, 2012, in Chamonix, France, and Courmayeur, Italy. Among the six nominated mountaineering ascents for the 2012 mountaineering Oscar, the jury has placed TWO SLOVENIAN ASCENTS alongside the other four from around the world: the ascent of the Charakusa 2011 expedition on K7 West (route Sanjači zlatih jam) and the route of the Kitajska 2011 expedition on Xuelian Nort East, named Raz zaupanja.



For the 20th selection of nominees for the world's highest mountaineering award, Piolet d'Or, the expert jury chaired by American mountaineer Michael Kennedy spent a full month discussing and studying mountaineering ascents from around the world to select the best six. They chose ascents that best represent exploratory mountaineering at a high technical level in minimal style, taking into account environmental protection.



The six selected from a list of 88 ascents made in 2011 on mountains around the world are a testament to the ability and determination of 15 mountaineers who persevered in often difficult conditions in little-known mountain ranges. Indian Karakoram, Xuelian Feng, Kyrgyzstan, Patagonia, Gangotra-Gharwal, Charakusa... Independence and strong team spirit were key in these rarely visited high-altitude areas.

The nominated mountaineers will present their ascents at the award ceremony in Courmayeur and Chamonix from March 21-24, and one of them will be awarded the Piolet d'Or: honor will be bestowed for the most notable ascent in alpine style in 2011.

All Slovenian mountaineers are nominated for this year's Piolet d'Or for the first time with their ascents.



As our top mountaineer Marko Prezelj, who has already received the Piolet d'Or twice (1992, 2007), said, "the selection has given weight to the idea. A realized idea is like a top-quality sports achievement. Having two Slovenian ascents among the six nominations is an excellent sign that Slovenian mountaineering is on the right path."



On this occasion, the Alpine Association of Slovenia and its Alpine Commission and Expedition Commission to Foreign Mountains are establishing for the first time the Slovenian youth mountaineering national team, whose purpose is to achieve quality (top) ascents, encourage and express individual climbing and organizational abilities, and select and realize their own quality mountaineering goals (at home, in the Alps, and in other mountains). The idea is also for team members to be in contact as much as possible with various mountaineers who have significant mountaineering experience, learn from them, receive climbing and other experiences related to climbing indirectly. Thus, this recognition - two nominations for the Piolet d'Or - is great recognition for Slovenian mountaineering, the entire mountaineering education system of the Alpine Association of Slovenia, and Slovenia. The young mountaineers Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič, nominated for the Piolet d'Or 2012, have also been selected for the candidate group for the team, which will be led by mountaineer Marko Prezelj.



In the expert jury for the highest mountaineering award Piolet d'Or 2012, chaired by American mountaineer Michael Kennedy, the other members are: mountaineer Valeri Babanov (Russia/Canada), mountaineer Alberto Inurrategi (Spain), mountaineer Ines Papert (Germany), mountaineer Liu Yong (China), and journalist Alessandro Filippini (Italy).



The expert commission for the Piolet d'Or 2012 has nominated the following six mountaineering ascents for the Piolet d'Or 2012 among numerous mountaineering ascents:



Peak Pobeda (7439 m): new route in the north face, named Dollar Road (2500 m: Russian 6B: 5.9/5.10 M5, 6 days, alpine style), climbed by: Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov (Kazakhstan).



Saser Kangri II (7518 m): first ascent of the east summit; the second highest virgin mountain in the world and the second highest peak with a first ascent in true alpine style. Southwest face - The Old Breed (1700 m: WI4 and M3), climbed by: Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson (USA).



K7 West (6615 m): first ascent, northeast face, route named Sanjači zlatih jam (1600 m, VI/5, M5, A2, in four days from camp to summit and back), climbed by: Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič (Slovenia).



Xuelian Nort East (6249 m): first ascent via NW couloir, route named Raz zaupanja (2400 m + 400 m summit ridge, ED2, AI5, M5+, +400 m summit ridge, D; 36, 5 h effective climbing), climbed by: Aleš Holc, Peter Juvan, and Igor Kremser (Slovenia), descent: SE face, route Seračina (2000 m, AI3, 60-80°). The route Raz zaupanja is dedicated to mountaineer Andrej Magajna, who died in an accident on March 8, 2011.



Meru Central (6310 m): new route, east pillar - The Sharks Fin (1400 m, A4 (Difficult mixed free and aid climbing), 12 days ascent, 2 days descent), climbed by: Conrad Anker, Renan Ozturk, and Jimmy Chin (USA).



Torre Egger (2850 m): south face, new route Venas azules above the Col of Conquest saddle (reached via El Arco de los Vientos, 950 m (of which 350 m first ascent), 6a, A1, AI6 (95°), M5, alpine style in two days with bivouac at the saddle), climbed by: Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied (Norway).



Bjorn-Eivind Aartun tragically died on February 10, 2012, while climbing in Norway.



Mountaineers Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič (K7 West, route Sanjači zlatih jam) were extremely happy about the nomination, and after receiving the first notification from the organizers, they said: "What does the nomination mean to us? We certainly didn't think we would be nominated for such an award, but we climbed a great route on a wonderful peak and hope someone will repeat it. :)

When we climbed the route, we were happy that the efforts were over, of course we didn't think about such an award at all. So far, the nominated teams and individuals have been of top caliber, whom we respect, but we know most of them only through the media. To be nominated alongside all these legends is unbelievable, we are really happy! Of course, we congratulate the other Slovenian team too! Bravo ours! If we received the Piolet d'Or... If we received it, the ice axe would be more of an incentive for the future than an award! With just the nomination, we know we are on the right path and doing well."

Luka Stražar was also proclaimed the most promising Slovenian mountaineer for 2011 at the Alpine Climbing Evening in Domžale on January 24, 2012.



Mountaineers Aleš Holc, Peter Juvan, Igor Kremser (Xuelian Nort East (6249 m), route Raz zaupanja) said about what the nomination means to them:

Peter Juvan: "I am very surprised by the nomination, I didn't expect it, especially since we didn't expose ourselves too much in the media, especially not outside Slovenia. With Marko Prezelj's words, who was the first to congratulate us on the nomination, I started thinking about media attention, which is highly valued today; it arouses feelings of satisfaction and happiness in us, but unfortunately also a certain emptiness when the spotlights go out. Personally, the feelings of satisfaction and happiness that you share with your climbing partners on the summit of the mountain are dearer to me than those under the spotlights, because the mountain remains as a present proof of the greatness of an act, while journalists scatter and the letters fade."

Aleš Holc says that the nomination is praise for their ascent last year; Igor Kremser says that "above all, he is glad that someone noticed your ascent, into which you put a lot of effort."

The Piolet d'Or as the world's highest mountaineering award "is great recognition from the mountaineering community for ascents that required a high level of commitment from the protagonists, but they are different in character and therefore incomparable. I don't envy the jury that has to choose one, the best, just because there can only be one winner. Besides the recognition, the Piolet d'Or event represents to me above all the guidelines for the development of today's mountaineering, which is fast, light, and free, i.e., guidelines that the Slovenian Alpine Commission has been promoting for some time, and given the fact that two of this year's nominations went to small Slovenia, successfully. Personally, I like this style also because our (mountaineers' side) impact on the environment is minimal, which means that our descendants will also be able to experience similar feelings as we did, who were the first to step on some virgin piece of Earth," explained Peter Juvan. His climbing partner Igor Kremser added that "the nomination itself seems more important to me, the Piolet d'Or is just a prop that the team whose ascent, in the commission's opinion, stands out receives."

Did you think, when you climbed the route, that it could be recognized as one of the six most important mountaineering ascents of 2011?

Peter Juvan: "The thought of the Piolet d'Or actually accompanied us throughout the expedition, as we got all the information about the expedition from Bruce Norman, who two years ago here with Kyle Dempster and Jed Brown climbed their Piolet d'Or for the ascent on Xuelian West. This mountain fascinated me with its appearance right upon arrival at base camp, as from there it looks by far the most powerful among all Xuelian satellites. Next to it, Xuelian NE looks like a pushover. It showed its true face only two weeks later when we moved to its base. I have to admit that I involuntarily started comparing both ascents, but only in terms of planning our ascent, I never thought that our ascent would be so recognized in the mountaineering community as the West ascent was."

Aleš Holc: "For almost a year, I was focused on this mountain. With great difficulties, I organized the expedition and gathered the team. I prepared well for the ascent and was rewarded by climbing this couloir with Peter and Igor and reaching the summit. The motivation was enormous. Because of it, I went to China for a month and a half. My thoughts were directed at how we would do it well and return home safely to our loved ones. I climb for these experiences and feelings, that is my reward, which I receive every time I go to the mountains; and therefore I will go many more times..."

Igor Kremser: "I always thought that the ascent itself was not bad, I never worried about what else we could get for this ascent. But this gives such an ascent a lot of motivation."



More about our two nominated mountaineering ascents:



Zlati_cepin2011_nominacija_PRV_na_K7_West_foto_odprave_Chrakusa2011K7 West (6615 m): first ascent, northeast face, route named Sanjači zlatih jam, 1600 m, VI/5, M5, A2, in four days from camp to summit and back), climbed by: Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič (Slovenia)



When they arrived in the Charakusa valley, at base camp, the mighty pillar of K7 West caught the eye of Nejc Marčič and Luka Stražar and completely captivated them. They pulled a new, first ascent route on it in pure alpine style, fast, light, directly to the summit. They named it Sanjači zlatih jam. This route is only the second route directly to the summit of K7 West, the first route was climbed by our top mountaineer Marko Prezelj, Steve House, and Vince Anderson in 2007. Sanjači zlatih jam is thus the second route to the summit and it is exceptional that both routes to the summit are SLOVENIAN.

Zlati_cepin2011_nominacija_PRV_na_K7_West_Marcic_Strazar_foto_odprave_Chrakusa2011Luka described the ascent and difficult sections as follows: "We spent 4 days on the route, mostly ice in the lower part, then rock jumps/combined climbing above. We tried to stick to the ridge as much as possible because that part is quite hanging with seracs. We started from base at 3 am, followed by 2 hours approach on scree, then we started climbing steep snow and ice to the bivouac on the ridge (until 19:30). The next day was technically the most demanding, combined climbing. It was harder than expected. That day we climbed 250 m and set up bivouac on the ridge. The next day we realized that continuing the planned route with the gear we had and in the current conditions was not possible, so we bypassed the upper rock part on the right side of the ridge and continued under the seracs. We reached the summit at 9 am, then descended to the first bivouac. The next day we descended to base in bad weather. The weather was excellent except for the last day."



Zlati_cepin2011_nominacija_PRV_Xuelian_North_East_foto_Peter_JuvanXuelian Nort East (6249 m): first ascent via NW couloir, route named Raz zaupanja (2400 m + 400 m summit ridge, ED2, AI5, M5, D; 36, 5 h effective climbing), climbed by: Aleš Holc, Peter Juvan, and Igor Kremser (Slovenia), descent: SE face, route Seračina (2000 m, AI3, 60-80°).

The route Raz zaupanja is dedicated to mountaineer Andrej Magajna, who died in an accident on March 8, 2011.



Zlati_cepin2011_nominacija_PRV_Xuelian_North_East_Juvan_Kremser_Holc_foto_Ales_Holc

On Xuelian NorthEast, 6249 m, Aleš Holc, Peter Juvan, and Igor Kremser made the first approach, the first traverse of the mountain, and climbed the first ascent route via the northwest couloir. The 2400 meters high and four kilometers long combined route on the thus unconquered Xuelian NorthEast they named Raz zaupanja and dedicated it to their friend, mountaineer Andrej Magajna, who died in an accident on March 8, 2011. Their descent route from Xuelian NorthEast via the southeast face was also first ascent. "We climbed the entire route, of course in alpine style, roped and mostly simultaneously - that's why a lot of trust was needed - hence the name of the route," said expedition leader Aleš Holc.



Previous Piolet d'Or recipients



Slovenian Piolet d'Or recipients:

- the very first Piolet d'Or (in 1992) went to Slovenians Marko Prezelj and Andrej Štremfelj for the first ascent via the south pillar of the eight-thousander Kangchenjunga (8476 m) in 1991.

- in 1997, Tomaž Humar and Vanja Furlan received it for a new route in the NW face of Ama Dablam (6812 m) in Nepal.

- in 2007, Marko Prezelj received the Piolet d'Or for the second time, together with Boris Lorenčič for the new route climbed in the pillar of Chomolhari (7326 m) in 2006.

- in the same year (2007), Pavle Kozjek also received the audience's Piolet d'Or.



There have been even more proposed and nominated mountaineering ascents by our mountaineers (Prezelj and Štremfelj were nominated in 1996 for the ascent in Patagonia in 1995, Prezelj was also nominated in 2002 (for ascent in 2001), Humar for 1999 and 2004).