Slovenian eleven in the fight for...

Slovenian eleven in the fight for the European sport climbing title



At the 2017 European Championships in lead climbing in the Italian town of Campitello di Fassa, Slovenia will be represented by eleven female and male climbers this weekend. Heading into the battle for European titles from the Slovenian sport climbing team are also the current European champion and three-time overall World Cup (WC) winner in lead Mina Markovič, the current world champion and 2016 WC overall winner in lead Janja Garnbret, and the 2016 WC overall winner in lead Domen Škofic.



The Val di Fassa 2017 European Championships in sport climbing, the most important sport climbing event of the year in lead and speed disciplines, will take place between June 29 and July 1, 2017, in the Dolomites, attracting more than 200 of the most successful sport climbers from over 20 countries who will compete for the prestigious title of European champion. Among them in lead climbing will be the Slovenian selected eleven: Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO), Mina Markovič (ŠPK Plus), Tjaša Kalan (AO PD Kranj), Urška Repušič (ŠPO APD Kozjak), Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica), and Veronika Meke (PS DPČ Šmartno) in the women's category, and Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica), Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka), Milan Preskar (PK Škofja Loka), and Jernej Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje Matica) in the men's category. The permanent coaching staff of the Slovenian sport climbing team is also heading to the Dolomites: Gorazd Hren, Luka Fonda, and Urh Čehovin.



"This year's preparations were a bit different, as we invested a lot of energy into the World Cup in bouldering, which is still ongoing. Therefore, I wouldn't burden the competitors with special expectations, as we all know well that it's not easy to switch to lead just like that; it's a different discipline that requires different preparations. Nevertheless, we have of course prepared for the lead season in parallel, and right after the bouldering World Cup event in Vail on June 9 and 10, we did two days of preparations right in Campitello, where the European Championships will take place. Now we are focused on the European Championships and the start of the lead season, so most are now training only lead," said the selector of the Slovenian sport climbing team Gorazd Hren about the preparations and added: "We have already achieved excellent results in bouldering this year, and I believe we will in lead as well." This season, the climbing time in lead semi-finals and finals has been shortened from eight to six minutes, so according to the selector, we can expect route setters to adapt to this, while the route style will force competitors into a more dynamic and faster climbing pace.



The European Championships, whose semi-finals and finals on Saturday, July 1, can be watched live on the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) website, is the start of this year's lead climbing season. As assistant selector of the Slovenian sport climbing team Luka Fonda said, lead competitors still have eight World Cup events ahead: in July in Villars (Switzerland), Chamonix and Briançon (France), in August in Arco (Italy), in September in Edinburgh (United Kingdom), in October in Wujiang and Xiamen (China), and to close the season on November 11 and 12, the traditional finale in Kranj. Slovenia will be represented by a slightly smaller team at the World Cup than at the European Championships, from six to seven competitors, while the top three will also participate in the World Games in Wrocław, Poland in July. The European Championships in bouldering will be in August in Munich (Germany).



Achievements of Slovenian sport climbers at European Championships



Chamonix 2002 Martina Čufar - 2nd place, lead

Lecce 2004 Natalija Gros - 2nd place, lead

Ekaterinburg 2006 Maja Vidmar - 3rd place, lead

Paris 2008 Natalija Gros - 1st place, bouldering; Natalija Gros - 1st place, combined; Maja Vidmar - 2nd place, lead; Mina Markovič - 3rd place, lead; Klemen Bečan - 3rd place, combined

Imst 2010 Mina Markovič - 1st place, combined; Natalija Gros - 2nd place, combined; Klemen Bečan - 2nd place, combined

Chamonix 2013 Mina Markovič - 2nd place, lead; Mina Markovič - 2nd place, bouldering; Mina Markovič - 2nd place, combined

Chamonix 2015 Mina Markovič - 1st place, lead; Janja Garnbret - 2nd place, lead



The first official European Championships were organized in 1992 in Frankfurt, and our competitors have been consistently reaching for the highest titles since 2002, as evidenced by 16 medals (eight in lead, six in combined, two in bouldering) won by the Slovenian sport climbing team at European Championships. The proud owner of six is Mina Markovič (ŠPK Plus), also the current European champion in lead climbing. In 2015, she ensured a historic achievement for Slovenian sport climbing, as we had not yet had a European champion in lead. It has been nine years since her first medal, bronze at the EP Paris 2008, but she still maintains top form and stands alongside new generations of competitors. "Following new trends, changing climbing style and method, and being physically competitive year after year against increasingly stronger young competition is a unique challenge and task. However, with the help of joy in climbing and will, and of course all the experience I have gained over the years, I successfully cope with it. Credit also goes to the coach and people who have helped or still help me with training and preparation," emphasized the 29-year-old from Sežana, who has focused on lead in recent years: "It's true that in recent years I have dedicated myself only to lead, but this year, unlike previous years, I have devoted quite a bit of training back to bouldering, even though you haven't seen me at World Cup events there this year. The reason is mainly the rule change to six minutes of time in lead (previously eight minutes), due to which we expect more dynamic, harder, and more bouldery routes also in lead. The European Championships as the first competition of the season is definitely a double-edged sword, but I am very much looking forward to the start of the season, especially if health serves me."



At the 2015 EP in Chamonix, Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO), then a newcomer to major senior competitions, complemented Mina's historic achievement with second place, already showing that she would be a relentless rival to older colleagues, which she proved last year with the world champion title in lead. "I am heading to the European Championships with joy, as I have good memories from two years ago. I also feel more relaxed because this year I have paid more attention to bouldering competitions and am not creating pressure that I have to win, but I still want to climb well and give my all. Last season gives me a lot of motivation, and I hope I can transfer it to the competition, although my form is not yet like it was last year," emphasized the 18-year-old from Carinthia, who has also started this year's bouldering season very victoriously, achieving her first bouldering win, two in total, and one second place. Of course, the quick switch from bouldering to lead is a unique challenge, especially compared to competitors who have dedicated themselves exclusively to lead: "I take the switch from bouldering to lead as a challenge, although sometimes it's hard for me because lead competitions are coming up quickly, and in such a short time I can't get my form to what it was last year. Of course, there will be a difference between competitors who prepared only for lead and those of us who also competed in bouldering, but everything depends on the route type. There are still a few days until the competition, and I can only draw the best from it."



Slovenia's men's iron in the fire of the European Championships will be Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica), the 2016 World Cup overall winner in lead. Slovenians in men's lead have not yet reached a medal at European Championships, nor have we cheered for Domen in the final at European Championships. "At both previous European Championships, I was unlucky; I haven't managed to show good climbing yet. I am extremely looking forward to Campitello. I can't wait for the lead season to start. The first half of the year was not the most successful for me, as healing my finger injury took much more time than expected. In bouldering, nothing came together for me even once, and all the travels were quite tiring. I would like to emphasize that my current form is far from last year's, so I have no special expectations. I hope I can qualify for the final; there anything is possible," said the 23-year-old from Radovljica before the last national team training before departure to Italy, who after June preparations at the European Championships venue in Campitello di Fassa is already looking forward to the upcoming challenge: "It was definitely great that we could gather some feelings before the competition. Campitello, in my opinion, has by far the most beautiful location of all competitions. The wall is top-notch and extremely overhanging. I don't know about the audience, but I believe it will be one of the better competitions. I'm looking forward to it!"



Schedule of EP in lead climbing Val di Fassa 2017



Thursday, June 29

19:30 presentation of competitors and opening ceremony



Friday, June 30

9:30-14:30 women's and men's qualifications



Saturday, July 1

11:15 women's and men's semi-finals (LIVE broadcast on IFSC website)

21:00 women's and men's finals (LIVE broadcast)

followed by medal ceremony