Speed silver at the European Championship and national record

Speed climbing is becoming increasingly popular both here and around the world. Stella Novak improved the Slovenian record of Janja Garnbret from five years ago by one hundredth of a second with a new national record, while Zoja Leskovar took second place among older girls at the European Youth Championships in Zakopane, Poland on 13 June, which is the first Slovenian medal in speed climbing at an international competition of the highest level.

The next day, on 14 June, Lina Funa became the European youth runner-up in bouldering.

Sport climbing was presented at the Tokyo 2021 Olympic Games as an Olympic combination of lead, bouldering and speed climbing, while in Paris 2024 speed climbing was already an independent discipline. In this youngest competitive discipline of sport climbing, hundredths of a second, explosiveness and perfectly coordinated movements decide. Two competitors climb the same standardized route. There is very little actual climbing; it is almost vertical running. The movement is dynamic and motorically demanding, but above all it must be extremely connected. The route is standardized and is not set by route setters, as in bouldering or lead. The wall is 15 meters high, has a five percent incline and two lines (left and right or A and B) with 20 handholds and 11 footholds. Climbers are protected by an auto-belay during climbing, and at the start extreme precision is crucial so that the competitor does not make a start that is too fast or too slow. In the qualifications each competitor has two attempts, and the better time counts. The best 16 advance to the elimination rounds, and the winner is the one who reaches the top the fastest.

Matic Kozmus, selector and coach of the Slovenian national speed climbing team, emphasizes that speed climbing began to develop more intensively here only at the end of 2023. He also highlights good cooperation between coaches, who exchange knowledge and experience with a clear common goal – the development of this sport. Great emphasis was also placed on dry preparation, strength training and exercises for individual muscle groups during winter and spring, which is already reflected in better results.

At the beginning of June, the national championships were held in Slovenska Bistrica, and the competition was marked by as many as five new records. Stella Novak (ŠPO PD Celje Matica) set a new senior record, which had previously been held by Janja Garnbret for five years, and achieved a time of 7.80 seconds. She improved the national record by one hundredth of a second. Among seniors, Anej Koštomaj (ŠPO PD Celje Matica) again took his record with a time of 5.73 seconds. Kozmus also highlighted Marko Šalamon (ŠPO PD Celje Matica), who was the first among cadets to climb the route under six seconds, and Nik Sevnik, who won all national championships among seniors this year. The world record in speed climbing is 4.54 seconds for men and 6.03 seconds for women.

16-year-old Stella Novak from Trbovlje, as the new holder of the national record, is of course very satisfied. “Before the competition I already knew that I was capable of fast times, but I certainly did not think that I would manage to beat Janja Garnbret’s time. The trainings were very planned, and the record seems to me a confirmation of my work and great motivation for the future.”


19-year-old Celje resident Anej Koštomaj was also pleased with the success, having again secured the national record. “I am looking forward to the next competitions, although I am aware that a lot of work and training awaits us. I know that I have not shown everything yet,” he added.

The speed climbers continued with good results at the European Youth Championships in Zakopane, Poland last weekend. Zoja Leskovar (AK Impol Slovenska Bistrica) became the European youth runner-up in speed climbing among older girls (up to 17 years) on 13 June: “I am happy and proud of the second place. The result is a reward for my hard work.” Kozmus added: “Zoja won her first medal, which is also the first Slovenian medal at the championships. I am extremely satisfied with her result and the other placements. Slovenian speed climbing is going in the right direction.”



Zoja won the silver medal with a time of 8.156 seconds. First place went to Lara Haselwanter from Austria with a time of 7.245 seconds, and third place went to Ukrainian Yevheniia Kolesnyk with a time of 8.246 seconds.

In speed climbing, Slovenian climbers have already won medals in the past: Jernej Kruder, bronze in 2008, and Sara Čopar, silver in 2021, both at the European Youth Cup competition.

Seven competitors participated in the competition, and as many as five qualified for the Saturday qualifications. Unfortunately, rain interrupted the competition, so it concluded with the results of the round of 16. The European senior series in speed climbing took place the next day. The best placed was Stella Novak, who finished the competition in 17th place.

The development of speed climbing and the potential of young competitors were also recognized by two companies, Dinit d. o. o. and Mastercard Slovenia.

The director of Dinit, Primož Patruja, said: “Speed climbing combines qualities that we also highly value at Dinit – focus, reliability, speed and flawless execution. We are pleased to be able to support, as the new sponsor of the Slovenian national speed climbing team, a discipline that is developing rapidly and in which Slovenian athletes are achieving exceptional progress. We believe in long-term partnerships and in supporting environments where talent, hard work and ambition create space for excellence, progress and new opportunities.”


“At Mastercard, we believe that the greatest progress occurs where talent, dedication and opportunity meet. Speed climbing is a sport that requires competitors to have exceptional focus, discipline, determination and self-confidence, so we are pleased to be able to support Slovenian athletes on their path to new successes as a partner. Sport plays an important role in shaping self-confident and persistent individuals and inspires young generations to believe in their abilities. That is why at Mastercard we support partnerships that open up space for the development of potential, progress and the achievement of excellence,” said Luka Gabrovšek, Country Manager for Mastercard Slovenia.

Selector Matic Kozmus emphasizes that the support means a great deal, as speed climbing is also developing in the right direction because of it and has great potential as an independent discipline. The development that has taken place between 2023 and today is exceptional, so he looks to the future with enthusiasm and everything that awaits the young climbers. “Speed climbing is understandable, dynamic and exciting,” he added and invited people to follow and support the young talents.