Sport climbers ahead of World Cup competitions...

Sport climbers highly motivated ahead of World Cup competitions.



This year's sport climbing season has set dates for World Cup events, so Slovenian sport climbers are already fully engaged in training. The Olympic Games will be the season's highlight this year for Janja Garnbret and Mia Krampl; their thoughts and training are focused on Tokyo, while other sport climbers have their minds on the first competitions.







The new competition season for sport climbers has its first scheduled outlines. The International Federation of Sport Climbing has announced the calendar of events, with the first one scheduled for April 16 in Meiringen, Switzerland. From late July to early August, the Olympic Games will take place in Tokyo, the first week of September will feature a competition in Slovenia, and at the end of the same month, the World Championships in all disciplines in Moscow. The competition year for climbers ends in mid-October in China.







"The competitors are fully in training; currently, we are mostly focused on physical preparation, and on weekends we have training on set competition boulders (the first part of the competition season will be exclusively in the boulder discipline). In March, we will conduct a series of competition simulations, where we will also select the narrower and wider team for the first block of competitions," said the selector of the Slovenian sport climbing national team, Gorazd Hren. "The plan for Janja and Mia is a bit different, as they have to prepare for all three disciplines and are currently focusing on speed in addition to boulders, then they will add lead. Due to the Olympics, we won't be able to count on them for the entire season; they will only participate in selected, meaningful competitions. They will go to the Olympics well-prepared, and we believe in the best."







Current three-time world champion Janja Garnbret, who a few days ago with Domen Škofic presented the successful Red Bull project of climbing the Trbovlje chimney, now has her mind on the climbing wall and preparations for the Olympic Games. She admits that last season was very different from previous ones, but she got the most out of it. "Last season, I lost my goal, which was reflected in my fluctuating motivation. I didn't know myself like that. Fortunately, during the first lockdown, I was able to train regularly. With my coach Roman Krajnik, we made a plan as if the Olympics in August were happening. I dedicated myself to all disciplines, especially spending a lot of time on speed training. Last season, I learned a lot about myself, about training, and for this season, I have a new plan. The Olympic Games are my main goal of the season, and I'm timing my form for August. I will still compete in some other World Cup events, for sure I'll participate in the first one in Switzerland. But all energy and training are directed towards Tokyo." Her training is very intense; she trains even twice a day. "In three days, I have five training sessions. I train up to six hours a day, but that's just fine."







Mia Krampl is also focusing on the Olympic Games this season. As preparation for the big event, she will also participate in some other World Cup competitions. "The trainings don't differ much from last year's. The plan is the same; I've just added shorter routes and slowly started training endurance." Last season, despite numerous restrictions, offered many new experiences; something that had become taken for granted suddenly wasn't anymore. "I started appreciating small things. I started appreciating every opportunity to compete in World Cups that the national team offers me. In addition, I became more grateful for my family. I definitely can't say that 2020 was bad and that I want to forget it as soon as possible; if we look closer, everyone can find something good in it too." Mia can't wait for the first competitions. "I'm sure there's no athlete who wouldn't be happy about competitions, especially after a year without competing. Let's keep our fingers crossed that the 2021 season goes smoothly."







Vita Lukan experienced last year on her own skin how quickly our expectations can be shattered, so her main wish this year is to compete in World Cup events. "I really hope the situation allows for the organization of competitions that all the best world climbers can attend, so I'll hone my form at home to the best of my abilities. This year, my goal is to raise the level of climbing in boulders too, where so far at World Cup events I haven't managed to achieve a notable result. Fortunately, I can currently train normally both at the local wall and with the national team at joint trainings. The difference compared to previous seasons is only that for now, I do all trainings only in Slovenia." Even though she'd prefer to forget last season, she used the time without competitions to address her weaknesses, so she's very much looking forward to all upcoming competitions.







Current European boulder climbing champion Jernej Kruder has returned these days from Spain, where he made good use of his days at the Margalef crag for successful ascents. And what are his challenges this year? "During the corona time, it's hard to expect anything. I'm hoping that this year's World Cup season will go as we all wish. Trainings are very similar to previous seasons. Fortunately, I have access to most climbing centers, but I still miss traveling abroad, where I usually gain a lot of experience and drive. Last completely different season showed me that I'm really 'addicted' to competitions. Competitions fill me with energy, and besides, that's how I can hang out with friends from other countries. I can't wait for the new season, as I've been waiting for action too long."







Like many other competitors, Anže Peharc has learned that we can't take anything for granted. The lack of competitions caused a lack of motivation among top climbers, but it motivated him the opposite way. "I knew there was a lot of time, and I used it to correct my mistakes. Last year, I really improved in physical weaknesses and made a very big psychological step. I hope there will be more competitions this year than last year. First and foremost, I'll devote all attention to bouldering. Here, I hope that with appearances in finals, I can aim for the top spots. After the first part of the season, I'm also looking forward to the lead part, where I'll aim for qualification to the semifinals. This will also be the first year when I'll start paying more attention to lead with the goal of competing at the Olympics in Paris." Anže Peharc also can't wait for new competitions to start traveling the world again and show what he did last year when there were no competitions.







Domen Škofic, who took second place at last year's first international lead competition in Briançon, wants this year only to maximally enjoy the competitions he can attend. "If last year I wanted a break from competitions, corona extended it longer than I wanted. But that's why I'm now even more looking forward to the start. Trainings remain the same. The only bigger change is that in the last year, I've been working harder on improving movement with the help of the center in Divača. Last year, I learned to respect the little things that I previously took for granted. I learned many new things and see the world from a new perspective."







The Alpine Association of Slovenia, together with the general sponsor of the Slovenian sport climbing national team, Prva osebna zavarovalnica, is preparing one of this year's World Cup sport climbing events in Slovenia. The date is set: September 4 and 5, 2021. "Regardless of the epidemiological situation, the competition will be held. We hope that spectators will be able to watch the September competition live, giving it the right atmosphere and additional motivation to the competitors," optimistically announced PZS General Secretary Damjan Omerzu.







As the national team members showed at the last joint training, the atmosphere among them is excellent. "We enjoy trainings, above all we work hard, but that's normal for us anyway. Fortunately, due to the coronavirus, domestic trainings are not restricted, of course, but it limits us in trainings we'd like to do abroad. We hope that will be possible as soon as possible," concluded selector Gorazd Hren.