Sport Climbers Heading Towards Olympic Dreams

The Slovenian national team in sport climbing, already anticipating the Olympic season, presented its lineup, plans, and goals for this year on March 28 at a press conference at the Alpine Association of Slovenia in Ljubljana. The 2024 World Cup begins on April 8 in China, European Championships await them at the end of August in Switzerland, and the highlight of this year's season will be the Summer Olympic Games Paris 2024. The top name in sport climbing, Janja Garnbret, secured her ticket last year, and eight more will compete for the remaining three Slovenian quotas at the Olympic qualifying tournament in May in Shanghai and June in Budapest.

The past season was marked by achievements mainly from the girls: world champion in bouldering and combined, and vice-champion in lead climbing Janja Garnbret, the first - and so far only - Slovenian sport climber with an Olympic ticket for Paris 2024, Vita Lukan with her maiden victory in the World Cup in lead, Mia Krampl as fourth at the World Championships in lead, and Lucija Tarkuš, third in bouldering at the European Games. Among the boys, Luka Potočar was the most successful, securing a spot at the qualifying tournament for this year's Olympic Games with consistent performances in bouldering and lead. Also qualifying were Lukan, Krampl, Sara Čopar, and Lučka Rakovec in the women's category, and besides Potočar, Anže Peharc, Martin Bergant, and Zan Lovenjak Sudar in the men's category.



In addition to those mentioned, the Slovenian national team in sport climbing in 2024, under the leadership of selector Gorazd Hren and coaches Luka Fonda and Domen Švab, also includes female climbers Katja Debevec, Julija Kruder, and Lana Skušek, and male climbers Lovro Črep, Matic Kotar, Jernej Kruder, Milan Preskar, Timotej Romšak, and Gregor Vezonik. "This year, there are many important competitions on the calendar, and I could almost say that the World Cup is of secondary importance. Still, it's in our plan, and we'll always participate in competitions with high goals, but due to other more important competitions, not always in the strongest lineup. The highest and most important goal is the Olympic Games and the related Olympic qualifications, which will be in May in Shanghai and June in Budapest, where we want to secure an additional spot at the Olympic Games and ensure that Janja doesn't go to Paris alone. In August, there will also be the European Championships in Switzerland, where we also want to show our best," selector Gorazd Hren presented this year's season and goals.

As he said, they will start the season a bit differently: "For the first two competitions in China, we have prioritized all those who qualified for the Olympic qualifications, as this is their only possible 'training' competition before it gets serious. We're not going in full strength, as some have decided to train at home instead and add what they need for a top performance until the qualifications. We also have some concerns due to injuries. But it's great news that Janja will be with us for the first two competitions, who will be very selective this year in choosing which competitions to attend before the Olympic Games." Thus, Garnbret, Krampl, Peharc, Potočar, Sudar, and Bergant are traveling to the opening World Cup competition in China, where they will compete in bouldering from April 8 to 10 in Keqiao, and except for Bergant, also in lead from April 12 to 14 in Wujiang.

"Qualifications for the additional ten spots will be in Shanghai from May 16 to 19 and in Budapest from June 20 to 23. All countries that currently have unfulfilled quotas for Paris can qualify at these two Olympic qualification competitions, and the top 10 women and top 10 men from these two competitions will advance to the Olympic Games in Paris," explained assistant selector and coach Luka Fonda, adding: "Of course, Slovenians want to supplement Janja's already secured quota from the 2023 Bern World Championships, so we expect a full women's quota. In the men's category, the competition is very broad, but I believe the competitors will give their all and that the training has been very high-quality and focused on the upcoming qualifications, but they'll also need to climb well in the competition. I believe anything is possible, but it won't be easy."

That the preparations for this year's season were in line with the primary goal, namely the Olympic qualifications and later the Games, and of course they also prepared for individual disciplines with less emphasis on the bouldering season, was explained by coach Domen Švab: "In addition to classic trainings of individual disciplines both at home and abroad, we had trainings in the combination of bouldering and lead. Together with the German team and some other national teams, we conducted a double simulation of the combination in Augsburg, and extended the preparations with the bouldering master Studio Bloc in Darmstadt." As every year, they tried to have as many trainings as possible on international setters' routes, which they largely succeeded in. For example, lead in Koper was set by both Adam Pustelnik and Jan Zbranek, both setters at the Olympic qualifications and Games. Most bouldering preparations were carried out in the training center in Ljubljana, where they also hosted foreign setters, and they had shorter preparations in Graz and Innsbruck. "I think the preparatory period was well executed, most trainings and preparations went according to the set plan, at a high level, so we are satisfied with the pre-competition period. Of course, training isn't everything for the results at competitions. To fulfill the possible quota for the Olympic Games, we'll need to put together the best performance in Shanghai and Budapest, which of course isn't that simple. The same applies to every individual World Cup competition, not to mention the Olympic Games."

The first Olympic champion in the history of sport climbing, Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO), crowned sportswoman of the year for the fourth time last year, returned to the top even after her first serious injury and in Bern, as world champion in bouldering and combined and vice-champion in lead, also climbed her way to an Olympic ticket for this year's Olympic Games in Paris, where she will defend her Olympic champion title from Tokyo 2021: "The feelings at this year's Olympic Games will certainly be different than in Tokyo, when sport climbing was included in the Games program for the first time. Now I already have Olympic experience and know how the entire protocol at the Games works, so from that perspective, it will definitely be easier this year. But there will be spectators in Paris, which there weren't in Tokyo due to the pandemic, so I'm especially looking forward to that." The 25-year-old from Koroška spent the last part of preparations for this year's season with coach Roman Krajnik again in the land of the rising sun: "I always like to return to Tokyo, as it's a city that really offers a lot to climbers. They have around 400 climbing centers, with that endless routes that are always a new challenge and enable diverse trainings. The conditions for training are really excellent, so we also decided for trainings there."

"We have set up this year's season like every season when we're preparing for a big competition. The focus is of course on the performance in Paris, but before that, some World Cup competitions await me, which are also important and where I'll give my all for the best result," emphasized the world's number one sport climber, who returns to the French capital with special feelings, where in 2016 at a tender 17 years old she became the second youngest world champion in history: "Paris holds beautiful memories for me, so I'm glad to return there this year. I hope and wish to step on the highest podium again." Every year it seems she has achieved everything in previous seasons, but last year she set another milestone - the first victory at the home competition in Koper, namely a record 41st World Cup victory. "The home competition is something special. Climbing is a sport that is rapidly gaining popularity in Slovenia, and the home competition is the best possible promotion that brings together the world's best climbers here as well. I won't say it's the easiest, because due to the responsibility I feel towards all the fans, it's probably one of the harder ones. The plan is to perform in front of home fans this year as well, and I hope there will be a record number of spectators in Koper," concluded Garnbret.

Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica) also successfully returned to major competitions last year after a knee injury and achieved her premier World Cup victory in lead in Briançon, she was also third at the World Cup competition in Koper and in the overall season ranking in lead. "I practically don't think about the injury anymore and try to focus on the things ahead. Last year's results are a nice provision for the upcoming season, but I also feel some pressure, as last year I managed to squeeze nice results out of the season despite difficult circumstances, which I want to upgrade this year. I dedicated a large part of preparations to bouldering trainings, which I pushed a bit to the side last year, and I hope the training will pay off also at the qualifications for the Olympic Games," said the 23-year-old from Radovljica, who placed 12th at last year's European Olympic qualifying competition in Laval, which was far from her expectations: "I went to the competition in really excellent form, but I couldn't withstand the pressure I put on myself. I conclude that mental preparation will also play a big role at the qualifying competitions. Since we'll compete in both disciplines in one day, we'll need to maintain focus for longer than at a competition of just one discipline and not allow a slightly worse performance in one discipline to affect the performance in the other, as happened to me last year. My task is to prepare as best as possible until May, and then transfer it all to the competition."

Last year fourth at the World Championships in lead Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), overall eighth in lead in the World Cup, placed 10th at the European qualifying competition in Laval for the OI. She climbed lead excellently, bouldering wasn't as shiny, so this year during preparations she dedicated even more to bouldering and things that don't suit her. "We had a lot of national team trainings and new settings in the training center, so there were really many opportunities for learning. I have to admit that it was mentally very hard, as at some point I had the feeling that everything I'm working on - my form, knowledge, focus - is just collapsing instead of building up. But in such moments, it's important to know how to stop, calm down, and find the right focus again, trust the coaches, the plan, and - most importantly - yourself," believe the words of the 23-year-old sport climber from Golnik, who already has valuable experience from 2021, when she competed at the Olympic Games, and a year later became European vice-champion in the lead and bouldering combination: "From the Olympic Games in Tokyo, I learned a lot and realized how much room I still have for progress, both in physical and mental preparation. During preparations for Tokyo, speed took quite some time from me, this season I dedicated that additional time in the initial phase of trainings to bouldering, and now mainly to lead. Although both disciplines are important for a good result, I realize that I need to be in top form in lead. So I'll go to competitions with greater confidence and more easily make up for lost points in bouldering."

Sara Čopar (ŠPO PD Celje Matica), last year youth world champion in lead and vice-champion in bouldering, and youth European champion in lead, placed in the top ten for the first time at the home competition in Koper in the World Cup among seniors, and this year another milestone awaits her - matura. "I'm a 4th-year student at I. Gymnasium in Celje and part of the sports department. This allows me to coordinate school obligations with trainings as best as possible. Also, most professors are very kind and understanding. I'm still absent a lot precisely because of preparations and competitions with the senior national team," said the 18-year-old from Laško and added: "The jump from youth to senior competition is very big. I needed quite some time to get used to the system, the competition, the difficulty of routes and boulders. Everything is more serious, results are more and more important, and it increasingly shows how mentally prepared you are."

Lučka Rakovec (PK FA) after previous more successful seasons last year didn't manage to qualify for the World Cup final, and her season ended with thyroid cancer surgery and a viral stomach infection, after which the 22-year-old from Ljubljana hasn't fully recovered yet: "Unfortunately, my trainings are still in line with recovery. I train a bit less, this infection brought me much more trouble than expected, so I also don't have set goals for this year's season yet. I decided not to return to competitions yet, when I'll return, I don't know yet, probably when I feel 100% okay again."

Since Rakovec doesn't know yet when she's returning to competitions, and Čopar injured her knee ligaments at one of the last trainings in the preparatory period, selector Gorazd Hren is forced to think about plan B for the Olympic qualifications, as Slovenia has the possibility of participation of four girls and four boys: "We're counting on Sara to heal and compose herself until the competition, as she's not completely limited in trainings, regarding Lučka we'll do what's best for her or how she feels. But we certainly aren't waiting and are already in the process of activating the reserve, which in this case is Lucija Tarkuš, who was next in the ranking for the Olympic qualifications."

The most successful Slovenian sport climber of recent years, Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica), after a few seasons of steady progress, encountered some obstacles last year. He qualified for the World Cup final twice, and concluded the season in overall 11th place in lead. "It's hard to highlight any major weakness, it simply didn't flow like the previous season. Probably a bit of everything accumulated, form fluctuated quite a bit, and results were consequently as they were," said the 22-year-old from Jesenice, who became European vice-champion in lead in 2022. This year, the European Championships are on the schedule again, but at the start of the season, his attention is directed to the qualifying tournament for this year's Olympic Games: "The European Championships is a big competition, but of course, there's still a long season until then. World Cups, also Olympic Games qualifications, which are of course extremely important, so I'll think about the championships when the time comes and be focused on the competition that follows. I'm mainly focused on the first two World Cup competitions, where I'd like to get good feelings, with which I'd go to the Olympic qualifications. The first period was quite different than usual, as I started lead trainings much earlier."

"I'd describe last season as probably the most challenging so far. For the first time, I had to deal with a more serious injury, and to top it off, the Olympic qualifications," emphasized Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj), who was plagued by an ankle injury last year, yet the 26-year-old from Tržič in Laval with 13th place provided the best Slovenian men's result: "I fought the entire season to fulfill the quota for this year's qualifications and thus keep the Olympic dreams alive. I'm very satisfied that in the end I could show what I'm capable of and gave myself an excellent provision for the start of this year's season. This year, I again put everything I have into preparations. There were quite a few falls and obstacles, but I think at this point I'm better prepared than ever for the combined performance. Of course, I don't plan to stop here, because there's still a good month ahead to perfect the last details."

Lead specialist Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka) can surprise also in bouldering. "For this year's season, my coach Roman Krajnik and I really changed the training plan a bit. We reduced the number of trainings and added time for rest, as the season will be long and especially more mentally exhausting than previous ones. With that, we also reduced the risk of possible major injuries," highlighted the 28-year-old from Škofja Loka: "Trainings are currently going according to plans, and I think I'll be well prepared for the season."

"I still prioritize bouldering, as I know I can make a breakthrough there. I'm on the right path, which is also confirmed by the start of the season at Studio Bloc," emphasized the bouldering specialist, 26-year-old Zan Lovenjak Sudar (PK Scena) from Libeliče, who won second place at this year's traditional bouldering competition Studio Bloc Masters, and in light of the Olympic qualifications, he coordinates both disciplines: "I've also invested a lot in lead, and I know I can climb well there too."

Last year, the Slovenian youth national team under the leadership of selector Ajda Remškar again provided excellent results, who for this year announces: "The main competition of the season will be, as every year, the August World Championships in China, followed by the European Championships in France in September. So a lot of focus will be on the autumn months, and the European Cup competitions line up nicely this year - bouldering in April and May, and lead in July, which allows us quality preparation for each discipline separately. This year, for the first time, we included new potential team members in trainings in the home training center already before the new year, so they had plenty of quality training, and I'm already looking forward to the international start of the season next week."

The bouldering team of the Slovenian youth national team (lead will be known on May 20) in the 2024 season consists of juniors (up to 20 years) Sara Čopar, Rosa Rekar, Zala Mlakar-Starič, Lina Funa, Gorazd Jurekovič, Jaka Jaki, Tim Korošec, Luka Jerman, Tanej Cerar Božič, and Matevž Margon, cadets (up to 18 years) Jennifer Buckley, Neža Zajc, Lana Gorič, Tinka Rakar, Maruša Podobnik, Lan Čreslovnik, Anej Koštomaj, and Nace Sedmak, and older girls and boys (up to 16 years) Laura Čepon, Eva Škrlec, Naja Isak, Tia Brnot Mrak, Tina Bobnar, Gal Pavel Pengov, Matej Rajšek, Lovro Tomažin, Martin Stanovnik, Vid Orlčnik, and Rožle Meke.

The year 2024 also brought changes to the Slovenian para-climbing national team, which now operates under the leadership of selector and coach Matjaž Vrhunc, who emphasizes that "all five members of the para-climbing national team are strongly committed to work and all approach individual trainings seriously also during the week, so I have no doubt that in this year's season we'll give our all and celebrate our own progress". Slovenian colors will be represented this year by para-climbers Tanja Glušič, Matej Arh, Manca Smrekar, Nataša Privošnik, and Gorazd Dolanc.

The Slovenian national team in sport climbing enters the new season with a new sponsor - Toyota, which not only demonstrates its commitment to excellence but also encourages athletes to realize their high goals. "The mixture of Japanese environment and the exceptional performance of Slovenian athletes at the Olympic Games in Tokyo in 2020 is an excellent reflection of what we want to achieve with this partnership. Toyota strives to promote social inclusion and provide mobility for all, and Slovenian climbers are a source of inspiration when the impossible becomes possible," emphasized the president of Toyota Adria group Yosuke Arai upon signing the sponsorship agreement for a three-year period with the president of the Alpine Association of Slovenia Jože Rovan.

Slovenian sport climbers ensure they are always first - just as their general sponsor PRVA has stood by them since 2018. "As the general sponsor of the Slovenian national team in sport climbing, today we start our joint seventh climbing season. In this time, together with our climbers, we have celebrated 103 medals, just 14 in last year's season. The focus in 2024 is of course on the Olympic Games in Paris - the incomparable Janja Garnbret won the first Slovenian ticket, and ahead are qualifications in Shanghai and Budapest, where the team fights for the remaining three tickets, and at PRVA we strongly cross our fingers for each of them. With all the previous successes and the ever-increasing popularity of sport climbing among the Slovenian audience, PRVA is an increasingly recognizable brand. We gladly continue with broader support for this sport; we remain the personal sponsor of the best sport climber Luka Potočar and plan activities with which we build affinity for sport climbing among new generations. Once again, we invite all Slovenian fans to the World Cup competition in Koper, where in the second weekend in September we can cheer together for our FIRST ON TOP," highlighted Nataša Hajdinjak, president of the board of PRVA Personal Insurance.