Sport climbers with high goals for the new season, Garnbret to China for 50th win

The Slovenian sport climbing team presented its lineup for this year, plans, and goals on April 21 at a press conference in the premises of the Alpine Association of Slovenia in Ljubljana. The 2026 World Cup begins on May 1 in China, where a strong Slovenian team led by Janja Garnbret is heading, who has the opportunity in Asia to claim her 50th World Cup win. This year's World Cup will again have greater weight as it will be the ticket to the qualification process for the Los Angeles 2028 Olympic Games, and sport climbers will also face the European Championships in the summer.

"With the start of the World Cup season, Slovenian climbers are once again stepping into the global spotlight, but the true strength of our team is forged at home. In the Alpine Association of Slovenia, we are extremely proud of our climbers, as with their achievements, dedication, and work ethic, they represent the pinnacle of Slovenian sport and inspiration for younger generations. I invite you to follow the best Slovenian climbers not only at world venues but also at national championship competitions, where the breadth of Slovenian sport climbing is shown and where a new generation of top competitors is already emerging," emphasized Marko Pogačar, head of the Sport Climbing Commission of the Alpine Association of Slovenia, wishing the team a successful season: "All the world successes of our champions clearly show young people that Olympic dreams are achievable, for which we are immensely grateful to them. To our team, we wish that in the new season, with pride, reliability, and perseverance, they continue to write the history of world climbing."



The Slovenian sport climbing team also strung together a series of successes last year. The world's best sport climber Janja Garnbret won all three World Cup events she competed in during the post-Olympic season, including in front of home fans in Koper, and with world titles in both lead and bouldering, she increased her collection of world champion titles to ten. The world public was also stunned by Rosa Rekar, the 2025 world runner-up in lead and regular World Cup finalist. Lučka Rakovec and Jennifer Buckley also shone at the World Championships and World Cup, while Mia Krampl, Lucija Tarkuš, Luka Potočar, and Anže Peharc proudly represented Slovenian colors in the World Cup final.



In addition to those mentioned, the 2026 Slovenian team, led by head coach Gorazd Hren and coaches Luka Fonda, Domen Švab, and Anže Štremfelj, also includes sport climbers Sara Čopar, Lina Funa, Katja Kadić, Julija Kruder, Vita Lukan, and Neža Zajc, as well as male climbers Lovro Črep, Gorazd Jurekovič, Matevž Margon, and Timotej Romšak. Kadić, Lukan, and Črep are injured and currently inactive, and there are quite a few new names in the team. "The rejuvenation of the team does not drastically affect work and training; of course, it can bring some freshness, but above all, it is important that the young ones get the opportunity to train with the best. We need to think about the future of the team, develop potential in time, and above all help the young ones so that their transition to the 'major league' is easier. We always have a strong youth base, but especially with the girls, and now with clearly separated guidelines between disciplines, this gap with the boys might be even more noticeable, which is also one of the reasons we invite more to certain trainings," explained head coach Gorazd Hren.

"The goals are always high, and I think justified. If Janja is at the competition, it's easier, but even when she's not, the goals remain the same. I always say every competition is its own goal, and this year, without a World Championship and Olympic qualifiers, it will be even more pronounced; every competition will mean the same. But if you ask where we would like to achieve the most, the answer is simple - in Koper. Of course, we also want a successful European Championship in Spain and France," emphasized Hren, who before the season start assesses, "that we are well prepared, we have done a lot of international simulations that showed the right direction, but the season is long and I believe we will add a lot more." For the first bouldering event from May 1 to 3 in Keqiao, China, Garnbret, Buckley, Tarkuš, Peharc, and Romšak are traveling, while in Wujiang, China, from May 8 to 10, Garnbret, Rekar, Rakovec, Krampl, Tarkuš, and Potočar will compete.

The World Cup starts in Asia, followed by events in Europe, ending in America, and this year it will again have greater weight as it will be the ticket to the qualification process for the Olympic Games.



"Many competitors have decided to focus on one discipline, either bouldering or lead. The bouldering season is really intense, as the bulk of events take place in about a month and a half. Lead is scheduled classically except for the last event in Chile. The World Cup this year will determine how many quotas countries secure for the 2027 European Games in Turkey, where the winner will get the first Olympic ticket. The highest quota is three, which means we as a team need to be in the top 5 on the rankings in each discipline," explained assistant coach and coach Luka Fonda. Olympic spots will also go to continental champions in 2027, with the rest secured by the best at the 2028 Olympic qualification tournaments. Fonda assessed how last year's introduced innovations in bouldering scoring and changes in semi-final and final qualification work out: "The system is slightly different from before, but the competition is always greater. A few more semi-finalists and two more finalists make the competition more exciting, and for someone on the edge, it's mentally easier regarding breaking into the semi-final."



The team had an intensive preparation period, mostly at home, in the national training center in Ljubljana, and also in Koper on the big wall. Part of the preparations were done abroad - the bouldering part of the team did double preparations with the French team and simulation training in Germany, the lead team did simulation training in Innsbruck, where besides the Austrian team a few other teams joined, and in Koper they hosted the Austrian team. "Such joint trainings are very important for us, mainly because in Slovenia we sometimes want a bit more competition within the team. That's why international trainings allow us real comparison with the best from the World Cup. This way, coaches and competitors get a clearer picture of where we stand. These trainings are also organizationally well executed, meaning good infrastructure and route setters who also set World Cup events, which is very important. I think we can say that we are currently quite satisfied with physical preparation," assesses coach Domen Švab. He also said that in the national training center they have a new addition, the so-called campus board or training-warm-up wall adapted for competitors, and they have expanded part of the wall, thus gaining the possibility of training longer boulders on the bouldering wall.



Given that the lead season in recent years starts simultaneously with bouldering, there are more individual competitors and very few combiners. Specialists don't have to make as many compromises in training, so Anže Štremfelj, who joined the team's coaching staff last season, expects most to be well prepared for competitions in their discipline, of course there are exceptions who have shown they can be competitive in both disciplines at the same time: "Lead specialists mostly include bouldering in their training at the beginning of the preparation period, later in the season they focus on being endurance-ready early enough and capable of optimal climbing on the big wall. They don't have to deal with competition situations in bouldering and can therefore do more lead training on the big wall. On the other hand, bouldering specialists usually don't include climbing long routes on the 'campus' in their training and thus have more time to focus on training on set boulders (competition style). Since they don't have to maintain high endurance levels in parallel, it's significantly easier than for combiners." The European Championship this year will again be only in individual disciplines - as will the 2028 Olympic Games, where competitors will compete for medals in all three individual disciplines for the first time.



The world's best sport climbers start forging in youth ranks, where last season we celebrated the success of Lana Gorič, the 2025 youth world runner-up in lead. "Due to changes in categories, new members have joined us after a long time, especially among girls these are really competitors we have been following for some time and who alternate at the top spots of national competitions with their fighting spirit. As every year, championships will be in the forefront - the world one this time in July in Arco, which after many years is location-wise more accessible for a broader team. I'm also glad that along with the European Championship in bouldering in Budapest in June, the lead championship in Augsburg has appeared on the calendar, from which we have really good experiences from previous years. Cup events are also dedicated to gaining experience so that as many young ones as possible get to feel international competition and start building a competitive career," said the selector of the Slovenian youth sport climbing team Ajda Remškar.

The first name in global sport climbing Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO Velenje), last year for the sixth time Slovenian sportswoman of the year, is not only a two-time Olympic champion but also a ten-time world champion. "It's never completely carefree. For me, it's key to enjoy every day also in training, because competitions are just a small part that everyone sees on TV … The Olympics are still far away, but the fact is that even now I'm preparing in some way for what's ahead. But we'll get there. This year I want to fulfill the main goal in the rock and compete in the scheduled World Cups," announces the 27-year-old Carinthian, who will compete this year in China, Innsbruck, Koper, and Chile. The schedule is composed as a combination of bouldering and lead, as such a plan suits her given the conditions in France, where she wants to complete the Bibliographie project, a 9b+ route. That was the main guideline, as with these competitions she stays in competitive rhythm in both bouldering and lead: "Rock climbing represents something completely different for me than sport climbing in competitions. Plans in nature can change quickly, so the plan is always more of a framework, then we adapt, also to the weather. The reserved block for rock is after China and somewhere until Innsbruck. But last year we already proved that with the right plan it's still possible to climb rock and compete, which adds some motivation and relaxation, because multiple goals break the routine."



Although she has been at the very top for a decade, she still has that primal spark, genuine joy that she likes to train and compete. "I enjoy every day, I always find something that drives me forward. And it's not necessarily competitions, titles, and medals. It can be a move I'm looking forward to, or one I can't climb and that's my goal for the next day. Small things that in the end can make the difference. If you do something you love most, it's not hard to maintain passion, because passion is what drives you even when it's tough," emphasizes the serial winner, who once said that silver and bronze medals don't interest her. So it's clear what she's going to China for, where already at the beginning of May she has the opportunity to claim her 50th World Cup win: "It's no surprise. When I won the 40th and it was a record, I told myself 50 wins sounds better. But it's a special milestone that I hope to reach. Maybe then it will be an opportunity to look back for a moment and remember all 50 wins."



We can hardly wait for her also in Koper, where this year it will be especially festive for the 30th anniversary of the Slovenian World Cup lead event, first 25 years in Kranj, this year the fifth in Koper. She can also set a new record there - so far, besides her, only Liv Sansoz, Mina Markovič, and Adam Ondra have collected four wins. "To be honest, I didn't know about that record. So another reason to see you in Koper. I'm sure there will be great atmosphere again this year, and it's definitely a competition that always awakens special feelings in me and gives some extra motivation. A few years ago I know competing in Koper was quite stressful and added pressure, now I've learned to enjoy it," we can believe Janja Garnbret's words.

Young Rosa Rekar (PK FA), who was kept home by illness on the day of the press conference, stunned herself and the world when she became the 2025 world runner-up in lead, but those following her climbing development knew what she was capable of. "Last season I gained a huge amount of experience. I learned to better manage pressure, I used every competition as a learning opportunity and took a lot even from events where not everything went according to plan. These experiences gave me the most and I believe I've progressed as a competitor because of them," reflects the 20-year-old sport climber from Žirovnica, who was the 2024 youth world champion and a year later already world runner-up among seniors. She confirmed her place in the elite of sport climbing also with four World Cup final appearances. "Expectations are higher than before last season, but my approach remains the same. I focus on my climbing, on the process, and on showing my maximum at every competition and enjoying it," she remains modest and is already looking forward to competing again at the highest level: "In China is the first competition of the year and I'm looking forward to the start of the season, the competition, and the opportunity to compete again."



Lučka Rakovec (ŠPO PD Radovljica) lost two seasons due to thyroid cancer, but last year she returned after illness even stronger and immediately showed she can compete with the best again. "The ordeal was tough, maybe the toughest so far. The last three years haven't been easy and I still feel the consequences both physically and especially mentally. I'd say last season taught me to listen to my body better and prioritize things that are more important for my health," emphasizes the 24-year-old from Ljubljana, last year seventh at the World Championships in lead and twice a World Cup finalist, at her first competitions after illness in Innsbruck and home Koper, so her season was very emotional: "Maybe some won't believe me, but last season there was more doubt, some bad mood and crying than joy and laughter. For the first competition I wasn't sure if I was ready, and honestly before qualifications I thought it would be better not to climb at all. So - it was hard, but worth it. I hope I made a step forward last year and this year it will all be easier." She proved to herself again what she's capable of, so she can set more concrete goals again: "Goals are set higher, with my coach we know what I'm capable of, but still I wouldn't say everything is 100% behind me and that on competitions I can think only about that."



Two-time Olympian Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj) was able last year to focus again only on one, her primary discipline - lead, in which she qualified for the World Cup final only once. "Last season didn't end as I wanted. When one thing fell apart, the rest went like dominoes. What positive can I take from such a season? If I answered quickly, I'd say nothing or very little, but upon reflection I'd say much more than from a perfect season. At the end of such a season you really think about what went wrong, which probably wouldn't happen with a really good season. That's why I'm working more actively and consciously on things that held me back last year," states the 25-year-old sport climber from Golnik, who has set quite high goals for this year but doesn't want to reveal them publicly. In the coming days she's heading to China, where she has harvested a series of successes in the past, as generally on Asian venues: "I don't look at competitions and venues through the eyes of the past and don't rely on old laurels. I see every competition as my challenge and approach each with respect for the route and competitors. Encouragement for me is how and how much I've trained this year, that I'm prepared and can trust the work of the past months."



Lucija Tarkuš (AK Impol Slovenska Bistrica) is, besides Janja, the only one from the team who will compete at both opening events in Asia, in both bouldering and lead. "I decided to compete in both disciplines because I enjoy both and like to train and compete in both. Of course I think I have more chances for a good result in lead and I've dedicated more attention to it, but I think bouldering trainings also help me there. I believe I can achieve a good result in both disciplines if I climb as I know how," is convinced the 22-year-old competitor from Slovenska Bistrica. The versatile climber celebrated a final in front of home fans in Koper last September, and in November in Mišja peč she climbed the Martin Krpan route to become only the third Slovenian after Mina Markovič and Janja Garnbret to climb a 9a route: "That after last season I dedicated more time to rock was planned already before Koper. That I want to climb 9a came more spontaneously after the 8c's were quite quickly successful. But rock climbing is quite different from competitions and both have their own charm. But last year's final in Koper means a lot to me and is great motivation for this season, where I definitely want to reach the final more often."

The most successful Slovenian male sport climber in recent years Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica) qualified for the World Cup lead final twice last year and finished the World Championships in Seoul eleventh in lead. "Of course I'd like more, but still I did what I could, and amid fierce competition I achieved some good results that I definitely want to improve this year," we can believe the 24-year-old from Jesenice, who also gets extra impetus from the successful return of his partner Lučka Rakovec to the World Cup: "I'm proud of Lučka, who as many times before showed she's capable of excellent results, and I hope this year together at competitions we show even more good climbing than last year." Potočar was the 2022 European runner-up in lead, fifth in 2024 in this discipline, and this year the continental championship is again on the schedule: "The European Championship competition is in the part of the season where good form is important also because of the following World Cups. I try to arrive at every competition in the best form and it will be the same this year too."



Bouldering specialist Anže Peharc (PK FA) showed consistent form last season with two finals, otherwise as a regular World Cup semi-finalist. Although he didn't step on the podium, in bouldering lottery it's a big achievement to remain a staple among the best World Cup boulderers after more than a decade. "I always tried new ways to be even better and in recent years I've built a really good team that I work with, which is the main reason why I'm still at the very top after all this time. In the last two years I changed the training method in the preparation period, specifically most strength preparations now I do in the gym with a conditioning coach - and that's one of the things that in the end made a big difference last year and also this year. And of course regular physiotherapy to avoid unnecessary injuries," explains the 28-year-old from Tržič, who is already looking forward to the season's opening event: "Preparations this year were really better than expected, especially my climbing, so I'm traveling to Asia with very good feelings and at the same time I believe I'm in the best form. Still, I won't put too much burden on myself with expectations, because over the years I've learned that in the end details decide."



The Slovenian speed climbing team, led by selector and coach Matic Kozmus, the driving force behind the development of speed climbing in Slovenia, has also set bold plans. Anej Koštomaj with the national record of 5.9 seconds is already approaching internationally comparable times, and Nik Sevnik has also achieved a time under 6 seconds. Besides them, the core of the team includes Mark Šalamon, Stella Novak, and Zoja Leskovar.

The Slovenian para-climbing team led by selector and coach Marko Guna is also optimistic. Last year, para-climbers Manca Smrekar, Tanja Glušič with guide Mitja Proje, and Matej Arh proved their high level of readiness with medals at the World Championships and World Cup events, which they want to show again this year.



Slovenian sport climbers also this season confirm it's a sport with exceptional breadth and strong development potential. For the ninth season, general sponsor PRVA supports them in this. "The PRVA brand since 2018 co-creates the story of Slovenian sport climbing, which is based on long-term support, perseverance, and development. In this time, our representatives have stood on the podium 118 times, so we gladly continue the cooperation also in the season that is not Olympic but remains important for building 'golden' continuity as well as for developing younger sportswomen and sportsmen. Precisely such competitive years give opportunities to new generations, as evidenced by last year's notable achievements of younger climbers, among them Rosa Rekar, who successfully steps alongside experienced representatives. We understand our role holistically - besides supporting the team as general sponsor, we importantly contribute also to organizing the World Cup event in Koper, which allows young ones to compete at the highest level in a home environment. In the upcoming season, we will keep fingers crossed for all Slovenian female and male climbers, especially for Luka Potočar, with whom we have extended cooperation for another three years, which is another important piece in the mosaic of Prva's support for sport climbing," emphasized Nataša Hajdinjak, President of the Management Board of PRVA Personal Insurance Company.