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News / Strong Slovenian lineup in Kranj for new medals

Strong Slovenian lineup in Kranj for new medals

31.08.2021
After a one-year break, the Zlato polje hall in Kranj will once again host a World Cup competition in sport climbing. This weekend, 3 and 4 September, the last competition in the old hall and the last difficulty competition of this year's international series will take place in the Gorenjska capital. Among the 117 competitors from 28 countries there will also be a strong 18-member Slovenian national team led by Olympic gold medallist Janja Garnbret.



The 2021 World Cup competition in sport climbing, organised by the Alpine Association of Slovenia under the auspices of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), will again be held in the Zlato polje hall in Kranj. Kranj has the longest tradition among World Cup organisers in sport climbing and is also one of the most popular venues.



In his opening address, PZS president Jože Rovan spoke to the participants of the press conference held at the House on Jošt. He highlighted the 25-year tradition of the Kranj competition, the importance of such an event for Slovenian climbing and for the visibility of Slovenian sport in general, and expressed hope that a suitable hall for international competitions will soon be built. The climbers were also greeted by the mayor of the Municipality of Kranj, Matjaž Rakovec, who revealed plans for the construction of a climbing centre with a multi-purpose sports hall for elite and recreational athletes and schools. The municipality is preparing amendments to the Zlato Polje land use plan for better utilisation and placement of the space. A conceptual design for the spatial placement has also been prepared. He wished the climbers a good competition and an even better atmosphere in the hall.



“If 152 climbers from 24 countries took part in the first competition in the Kranj hall in 1996, the number this year is still comparable. 117 competitors from 28 countries have registered for the competition, which is a record number of participating countries. This year's schedule has been shifted by one day for a more spectator-friendly time slot. On Friday, 3 September, qualifications will run from morning to evening. On Saturday, 4 September, the semi-final starts at 9:00. The final event, starting at 17:30, will be broadcast by Television Slovenia. We have had an excellent Olympic year behind us, we have a gold medal, we have medals from other competitions, and I know that the girls and boys are capable of reaching for medals, so despite all the restrictions the atmosphere in the hall will be victorious,” said the head of the WC Kranj 2021, Tomo Česen.



PROGRAM World Cup in sport climbing KRANJ 2021 (Zlato polje sports hall)

Friday, 3 September

Saturday, 4 September

08:00 - 20:00 QUALIFICATIONS MEN and WOMEN

________________________________________

Note: men start at 8:00

The start time for women will be announced after registration closes

09:00 - 11:30 SEMI-FINALS MEN and WOMEN

17:00 hall opening

17:30 official start of the event

17:40 presentation of competitors and route viewing: WOMEN and MEN

17:46 presentation of awards to Mina Markovič and Tjaša Kalan Primožič

17:53 opening ceremony

18:00 WOMEN'S FINAL

19:00 MEN'S FINAL

followed by the Closing ceremony



“I would rate this season in difficulty as good so far; we had perfect results brought by Janja, 3rd place by Vita Lukan, many final appearances and encouraging results from the rest of the team. However, that final touch or ‘cherry on the cake’ was often missing. In decisive performances we made some unnecessary mistakes and were thus deprived of another victory that I think we deserved. Those results are behind us; all focus is now on the competition in Kranj and the World Championship in Moscow,” says selector and coach of the Slovenian sport climbing team Gorazd Hren, who selected a 19-member squad for the home competition. Ten women and eight men will compete in Kranj. In addition to Janja Garnbret, Lučka Rakovec (who took third place on this wall in 2019), Olympic competitor Mia Krampl, Vita Lukan (currently third on the IFSC difficulty ranking), Tjaša Slemenšek, Lucija Tarkuš, Lana Skušek, Katja Debevec, Sara Čopar and Liza Novak will also compete.



Among the men, this year's standout Luka Potočar, Domen Škofic, Martin Bergant, Milan Preskar, Anže Peharc, Žiga Zajc, Andrej Polak and Timotej Romšak will compete on the Kranj wall.



Of course, the best youth national team members will also get a chance at the home competition this year, including several who have just returned from the World Youth Championship in Russia. “I would especially like to highlight Sara Čopar, who became world youth champion in difficulty and combined among cadets and won silver in bouldering, and Lucija Tarkuš, who became world vice-champion in difficulty and combined among juniors and took silver in bouldering; Liza Novak and Timotej Romšak were also third in difficulty,” added Hren, inviting Slovenian fans to the Kranj hall. “We always look forward to home competitions; it is an honour to perform in front of our own fans and to try to put on the best possible show for them. Home fans always create an excellent atmosphere in the hall, and I believe they can squeeze another percent of strength out of each individual.”



The leading name in sport climbing, Janja Garnbret, who won the Kranj competition in 2017, is coming to this year's event as Olympic champion. “This year everything was focused on the Olympic Games. To be honest, after Tokyo there was no motivation. I had just competed at the highest level, achieved the goal I had worked towards for two years. For two weeks I didn’t climb at all; I couldn’t even imagine straining on the wall. Now I have done three serious training sessions and I can say that motivation is slowly returning—just right for the Kranj competition,” said the motivated 22-year-old from Koroška. “The special flavour of this competition is definitely the home crowd, which can lift me and give me extra encouragement, but it can also add pressure because I want to show what I can do in front of the home fans too. But regardless of everything, it is a pleasure to climb on home ground.”

If three years ago Janja advised young climbers not to worry too much about the result, not to overthink, and just to enjoy climbing, this year she agrees even more strongly. “What I said three years ago still holds true; that is the basis of everything.”



All the other competitors climbing the Kranj wall also want to enjoy the climbing. Olympic competitor Mia Krampl will also compete in Kranj; her best result this year was 8th place in Villars. Two more important competitions await her, for which she prepared after the Olympic Games: the Kranj event and the World Championship in Russia. “I haven’t competed in difficulty for some time, so it’s hard to say what to expect. But I definitely want to reach the final again in front of the home crowd.”



This year Vita Lukan, the 20-year-old from Radovljica, reached every difficulty final and is third overall on the IFSC difficulty ranking. She took third place at the last competition in Briançon. “I will set aside overly high expectations for the overall standings and focus only on my own climbing, since each competition is its own chapter. Based on the training we have done at home and abroad, I feel my form is at a high level and I can’t wait for the competitions to resume. This is already my most successful season, and I would like to add a good result from the home competition, which is definitely something special. I am really glad that we will have real fans in the hall, as they give the whole event that special energy that we competitors feel too. The popularity of climbing in Slovenia is greater than ever, so I think the atmosphere will be unique. I hope we Slovenians will make the most of it and reward the audience with excellent performances.”



20-year-old Lučka Rakovec won bronze in Kranj two years ago, and this year's results suggest she is in good form. “Since I am very satisfied with my current form, I want to climb to the best of my ability at the Kranj competition and hope for a good result. Performing in front of home spectators is always nice; fortunately it doesn’t add extra pressure for me, so I am really looking forward to this year’s competition too.”



The only male Slovenian representative to reach four finals this year is Luka Potočar, who is the highest-ranked Slovenian man on the IFSC difficulty ranking at 7th place. “My form before the Kranj competition is solid. I feel confident on the wall and am ready for the usually physically very demanding Kranj routes. If I consider the last World Cup in Kranj and the World Championship in Moscow as the season finale, the goal for both is the same. I want to end the season the way I started it—with a final. And in the final, perform as I know how, without the mistakes that have ruined my plans this year, especially in finals.”



Domen Škofic had his first appearance in Kranj in 2010 and has the most experience in difficulty climbing among Slovenian competitors. He has already won a medal in front of the home crowd and is aware that a home competition is so special that he will show his best climbing this year too.



Tickets

Tickets for the Kranj competition are available at Eventim sales points across Slovenia, on their website, and at the headquarters of the Alpine Association of Slovenia.

Viewing Friday’s qualifications is free. Admission for Saturday’s semi-final and final is a flat rate of 20 euros or 15 euros for PZS members. Children up to and including 8 years of age have free entry.


The discount for members of the Alpine Association of Slovenia applies when purchasing at the PZS headquarters or online via Eventim. The member discount requires presentation of a membership card or entry of the membership number (on the Eventim site, enter it in the promotional code box). The member discount cannot be claimed at other Eventim sales points.



Attendance at the event requires fulfilment of the PCT condition (recovered, vaccinated, tested)! Proof of PCT requires a certificate and ID document. Persons under 15 years of age do not need to meet PCT conditions if attending with close family members or guardians who do.



Detailed information is available on the competition website, where all results after qualifications, semi-finals and finals, as well as photos, will be published. Everything will also be promptly posted on the PZS website and PZS Facebook page.



The final will be broadcast live on TV Slovenia channel 2. The general sponsor of WC Kranj 2021 is Prva osebna zavarovalnica, the major sponsor is the Slovenian Tourist Board, and the co-organiser is the Municipality of Kranj. Thanks to them and all competition sponsors.
         
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