Svoljšak and Zupin from Alaska with...

Svoljšak and Zupin from Alaska with 5 first ascents and 3 first summits.



Gorenjska alpinists Janez Svoljšak and Miha Zupin (both from AO PD Kranj) climbed five complex first ascents totaling 4250 meters in the remote mountains above Revelation Glacier in Alaska, three of which led to virgin peaks. The 1300-meter Slovenian Route on Apocalypse North stands out in terms of route length and descent difficulty, while the expedition was marked by strong winds and abundant wind-blown snow, as well as isolation, unexplored terrain, and primitivity, which characterizes today's top alpinism.



Members of the Mountaineering Section of PD Kranj spent from mid-March to mid-April in the remote mountains above Revelation Glacier in Alaska, where on average one alpinistic expedition explores per year in the last decade, and access to base camp is possible only by plane. "The greatest hallmark of climbing above Revelation Glacier is remoteness from civilization, meaning all communication is limited to messages via satellite phone, and arrival and departure at base camp depend on good weather. The weather there is very changeable, which we felt most in the first days when the wind twisted the tent poles and forced us to move on our knees while climbing the ridge. Due to strong winds, there is much wind-blown snow in the walls, so we turned back twice in the routes, and in numerous pitches we had to remove snow first to reach rock or ice. Removing snow with an ice axe in vertical terrain is not easy and sometimes even harder than climbing itself," describes Janez Svoljšak, leader of the Revelation 2019 expedition, supported also by the Alpine Association of Slovenia.







"We consider the expedition very successful, as we climbed five complex first ascents, three to unconquered peaks. The common thread of all first ascents was unknown terrain pitch by pitch and our desire for not too much wind-blown snow preventing the ascent. The Slovenian Route stands out due to the demanding descent," summed up 25-year-old Škofjeločan Svoljšak upon return to Slovenia, who has previously participated in alpinistic expeditions in Pakistan and Patagonia, mixed routes or icefalls in the Canadian Rockies, Montana, and Colorado in the USA; among his ascents stand out solo in the north face of Matterhorn (Schmidt Route) and solo on Mont Blanc in one day via Innominata Ridge. The 2016 European ice climbing champion and World Cup competition winner also skillfully applies competition experience to big walls: "Competition holds are very demanding, meaning every larger ice axe placement means a fall in direction, so competitive experience contributes to faster and safer mountain climbing. They are most evident in thin ice and rock where it's hard to find a good spot for the ice axe."







After wind-blown snow prevented ascent of Pyramid Peak, the alpinists on March 21 headed to the nearby unconquered Four Horsemen East (2600 m); the seven-hour ascent on the east ridge (600-m East Ridge) was marked by steep postholing, mixed climbing, searching passages, and ridge traverse to the summit in strong wind forcing all-fours movement. After a day at base, they made a good attempt spiced with strong powder avalanches in the east face of Golgotha (2724 m), stopped by snow-filled overhanging cornice; in the same face on March 27 they climbed the 900-m route named Father/Oče, reaching the summit in six hours. Next, the 750-m Secret/Skrivnost in the cirque at glacier start; in excellent snow-ice conditions with steep ice climbing section and overhanging rock exit, after seven and a half hours they reached the 2450 m summit named Wailing Wall.







"Alaska really hits you! It's not merciful. Not forgiving. Tough! Whether prepared or not is your affair! But it can be completely mild and gentle, don't kid yourself it's always so. Alaska favored us despite tough start testing strength, perseverance, and heart," says Miha Zupin, formerly on expeditions to Rolwaling in Nepal, Garhwal Himalaya in India, Gasherbrum in Pakistan, and rock expedition in USA. Chief of AO PD Kranj, with several first ascents and winter repeats in Alps, celebrated 30th birthday on Alaska in Secret route: "Happy birthday Miha! were smiling Janez's words near summit section of first ascent to virgin peak. He claims it's the most beautiful route—not pulled by hairs—climbing it was poetry! It truly surprised us positively; wall looks from afar like a wall without inviting cracks or attractive lines, dark unattractive color, set in corner so eye doesn't stray there. At first glance no special expectations—but it was!"







April 1 was for new first ascent and first summit of Apocalypse North (2750 m), needing eight and a half hours via 1300-m Slovenian Route. "Ice bands end in crumbly steep corner avoided left. Some hoarfrost, one mixed pitch, excellent gully conditions, then route eases. Follow gully end unknown as in clouds on recon. Gully closes, ice bands nice passages. Summit slope to ridge, traverse to highest unconquered summit. Descended other valley hoping passage back. Descent required downclimbing, two rappels in crumbly rock. Fortunately easy col passage to our valley avoiding 40-km ridge detour," describes Svoljšak. Farewell to Alaska, with Zupin on April 5 seven-hour first ascent 700-m The Last Supper for snow strugglers/Zadnja večerja za snežne bojevnike to Seraph (2650 m), again good conditions with abundant wind-blown snow.







Svoljšak-Zupin ascents in Alaska:



Four Horsemen East (2600 m): East ridge, M6/M4, 50°-70°, A1, 600 m, 7 h (ascent to unconquered summit)

Golgotha (2724 m): Father, Ai5, 50°-70°, 900 m, 6 h

Wailing Wall (2450 m): Secret, Ai6/Ai4+, 750 m, 7.5 h (ascent to unconquered summit)

Apocalypse North (2750 m): Slovenian route, Ai4+ R, M6, 50°-80°, 1300 m, 8.5 h (ascent to unconquered summit)

Seraph (2650 m): The Last Supper for snow strugglers, M7/M4-5, 50°-80°, 700 m, 7 h





"This Alaska expedition exemplifies success when relaxation and diligence combine effectively in a rope team where collaboration underpins responsible decisions. Janez and Miha set ambitious goals quickly adapted to real conditions and Alaskan reality. After first two routes, they settled and continued playful relaxed climbing. No general recipe for such adventure. Each finds own character approach, but watering desires with patience and persistence lets us admire flowers inspiring beyond social media visibility. Sincere congrats to alpinists for complete experience! Now they know capabilities, can confidently surpass many times," assesses top Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj, who has climbed inter alia in Alaska.