The Most Successful Alpinists and Sport Climbers
24.01.2013
Yesterday, January 23, 2013, at the Alpine Climbing Evening in the Franc Bernik Cultural Center in
Domžale, the Slovenian Alpine Association and its Alpine Commission and Sport Climbing Commission of the PZS
awarded recognitions to the most successful female and male alpinists and female and male sport climbers
for the year 2012, these are: Tina Di Batista (alpinist), Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič (alpinists), Mina Markovič
(sport climber) and Domen Škofic (sport climber).
The numerous attendees at the announcement of the most successful were greeted at the beginning by the president of the Slovenian Alpine Association Bojan
Rotovnik. In his address, he congratulated all recipients and all those who stand behind them and encourage them to persist on the path
of alpinism and sport climbing, and also thanked them. He wished them a successful year and that they would further upgrade their path and successes with additional
motivation. President Rotovnik also invited those gathered to numerous events that
will be prepared for this year's 120th anniversary of the Slovenian mountaineering organization, which is being celebrated by the Slovenian Alpine Association.
The purpose of the selection is primarily the evaluation and assessment of the highest quality alpine ascents and top
sport climbing achievements and to present the best achievements of our alpinists and sport
climbers to the wider public.
"In alpinism for the year 2012, it is characteristic that the main role of alpine activity has finally been taken over by a new
generation of young Slovenian alpinists, who are completely in tune with contemporary world alpine trends. In fact,
they co-create and also change it. Logical and encouraging. The year 2012 was marked by two more events. Two
nominations and later the awarding of the prestigious Golden Ice Axe award to a Slovenian team for one of the most prominent world
alpine achievements in 2011 and the establishment of the Slovenian youth alpine team with which the Alpine
Commission (KA) PZS begins a new approach in supporting young promising alpinists," said the head of KA PZS
Miha Habjan.
Sport climbing: "Slovenia with its competitive successes certainly maintains the status of one of the strongest
teams in the senior competition in the world, the same applies to young climbers, who relentlessly knock on the doors of their
older climbers, who were their role models not long ago. Mina Markovič succeeded in what only
a few have done so far. She defended the title of overall winner of the World Cup in difficulty and combination, in bouldering
she won fourth place. Due to injury, she did not compete at the World Championships, but overall in the world
cup she stood on the podium nine times. Besides her, Maja Vidmar also stood on the podium three times.
In the men's competition, younger competitors came to the fore this season, among whom
this year's European youth champion Domen Škofic should be mentioned in particular. In Atlanta, he succeeded for the first time in
his career to break into the World Cup final. Together with Urban Primožič, who stood in the final for the first time at
the end of last season, they form a new hope for Slovenian men's sport climbing," said the head of
the Sport Climbing Commission PZS Borut Kavzar.
MOST SUCCESSFUL in 2012
The most successful female alpinist in 2012 is Tina Di Batista (AO PD Ljubljana–Matica).
The most successful alpinists in 2012 are the team Luka Stražar (Akademski AO) and Nejc Marčič (AO PD
Radovljica).
The most promising alpinist in 2012 is Tadej Krišelj (AO PD Kamnik).
The most successful female sport climber in 2012 is Mina Markovič (PK 6b Ptuj).
The most successful male sport climber in 2012 is Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica).
AWARDS FOR SPECIAL ACHIEVEMENTS IN ALPINISM were received by: Anastasija Davidova (AO Ljubljana–Matica), Andrej
Grmovšek (APD Kozjak Maribor), Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje – Matica), Luka Lindič (AO PD Celje – Matica),
Urban Novak (AO PD Kamnik).
RECOGNITIONS TO PROMISING SPORT CLIMBERS for results at the world and European youth
championships and European youth cup and for ascents in natural climbing areas were received by: Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka), Sergej Epih (PK Škofja Loka), Anže Peharc (ŠPO PD Tržič), Jure Raztresen (PK Škofja Loka),
Tim Unuk (PK Laško) and Gregor Vezonik (AK Ravne).
RECOGNITION FOR TOP ACHIEVEMENTS IN COMPETITIONS in sport climbing was received by Maja Vidmar (PK
Škofja Loka).
The Sport Climbing Commission PZS for the first time awarded recognition to the coaches of the most successful female sport climber
and climber, these are: Roman Krajnik (PK Škofja Loka), coach of Mina Markovič, the most successful female sport climber for
2012 and also coach of the national senior team, and Uroš Grilc (ŠPO PD Radovljica), coach of Domen
Škofic, the most successful male sport climber for 2012.
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STATEMENTS:
About satisfaction with the received recognition and her 2012 season, the most successful female alpinist Tina Di Batista, who
has received this title more than five times, said: "The awarded title of the most successful female alpinist means recognition
for last year's successes, although I had even bigger plans, but I adjusted them in coordinating time, weather, family.
On the expedition to Kyrgyzstan, I, as well as all co-climbers, used all the time for climbing. For this, I would
thank the Alpine Commission and PZS for still supporting me, and my daughter's grandmothers who help with
caring for Ula. Goals for this year: in 14 days I am heading to Patagonia, then throughout the year plans are mostly
tied to the Swiss Alps and mountains near Europe."
Luka Stražar, Nejc Marčič, the most successful alpinists for 2012, who last year received the prestigious and highest award in
the world of alpinism, the Golden Ice Axe, did not rest in 2012 either, but proved that the world award went to
the right hands. On the Slovenian alpine expedition Janak 2012 to the Himalaya, they climbed a new first ascent route
Blue Racer. Both are members of the Slovenian youth alpine team (SMAR). Nejc said on behalf of both:
"The season was good, I hope the other – this year's – will be even better. For myself, I wish to climb a bit more in
rock. The award will not motivate me further, since we don't climb for awards, we follow our own head and desires. It's nice
to be at the top. Luka and I got along well, he's a good co-climber, fast. This year we both return to the Himalaya, namely
with SMAR, currently waiting for permission to access the area."
The most promising alpinist for 2012 Tadej Krišelj is currently on an expedition in Patagonia (together with Luka Krajnc,
with whom last week he climbed a new first ascent route on Fitz Roy, they named it The Real Kekec.
Tadej is also a member of the Slovenian youth alpine team.
Mina Markovič, the most successful female sport climber in 2012, received this title for the third time in a row. "Today is
the conclusion of the 2012 season, which was extremely successful. Just like last year, it's hard to add anything, the results speak for themselves. Still
I have a lot of motivation to further upgrade my climbing. Preparations for the new season are already in full swing. With
the coach, we made a plan for 2013 at the end of the year and I will compete in difficulty and bouldering
climbing just like in 2012. Goals are high. Soon we head to preparations abroad, in mid-March the competitive
World Cup season starts – with the first bouldering competition in China."
Domen Škofic, the most successful male sport climber in 2012, received this award for the first time. In 2012 he competed among
juniors and seniors. He achieved excellent successes. "I did not expect the title of the most successful sport climber in 2012,
since I didn't even expect a nomination. But I am happy and for me this is recognition for successful work,
successful season. I hope this year's will be even better."
The Alpine Climbing Evening, prepared by the Society for Mountain Culture, also included in the cultural program
a selection of very interesting short films from the International Mountain Film Festival Domžale: Call of the Mountain, Temporada,
Honald 3.0 and the Slovenian short film Secret.
JUSTIFICATIONS
MOST SUCCESSFUL in ALPINISM in 2012
The expert commission that made the selection of the best and most promising alpinists consisted of: Andrej
Štremfelj, Boris Lorenčič, Matej Kladnik (KA PZS), Miha Habjan (KA PZS), Peter Mežnar, Tadej Debevec, Tanja
Grmovšek, Tomaž Jakofčič, Tone Škarja (Commission for Expeditions to Foreign Mountains PZS) and Urban Golob. They performed
demanding work, as the ascents and climbed routes were also excellent in 2012.
The head of the Alpine Commission PZS Miha Habjan said among other things: "The main criteria for the selection were
excellence, first ascent, idea and choice of goal, boldness and adventure, and of course the manner of the ascent performed. We wanted
to emphasize cooperation, dedication to the goal even at the expense of uncertainty of success, straightforwardness,
searching for unpopular but still attractive goals and true classic alpine values, not just high grades
or popularity of routes. We strictly gave preference to ascents of a truly alpine character. In collecting and
selecting the highest quality alpine ascents, it was hard to decide since many alpinists last year
climbed many excellent routes, but in the end the selected most successful alpinists received the majority of votes. Also this year
individuals were selected who, in our opinion, marked the past year more significantly with one or more top ascents.
These alpinists were awarded the award for special achievements in alpinism. The ascents
of nominees and awardees are ascents that represent the majority of the best Slovenian ascents performed in
2012. Comparison of alpine ascents and their evaluation is always difficult and thankless task. Especially
this was noticeable in this selection, as the ascents of female and male candidates were equal or very difficult
to compare. Our selection is not absolute truth and I hope we all realize that. The selection is only the best approximation,
for which we tried our best. In the end, I wish all awardees and nominees in 2013
to exceed last year's achievements and always return home safely."
Most successful female alpinist – Tina Di Batista (AO PD Ljubljana–Matica)
Tina Di Batista is one of the most versatile female alpinists not only in Slovenia but in the world. After a short break
due to motherhood, in the last two years she is returning to the alpine arena at the highest level. Difficult rock
free repeats, difficult winter ascents and top expedition ascents are Tina's constant. It was the same in 2012.
Tofana di Roses, Sognano di Aurora, 7b+, 600 m, NP
Pic du Pamir, Crack Suzy, 6b, 250 m, NP
1000 YORC: French Pillar, 6c/6a, 1500 m
Pik Slesova, Perestroika crack, 7a+, A0 (2m in 7b pitch), 900 m
Aig. des Pelerins, Beyond good and evil, V/VI, M6+, 550 m
Most successful alpinists – team Luka Stražar (Akademski AO) and Nejc Marčič (AO PD Radovljica)
Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič are representatives of the young generation of Slovenian alpinists. Enthusiastic, persistent and
dedicated alpinists, who in recent years have directed their climbing activity mainly to expeditions to the highest
mountains of the world. In 2012, with excellent winter repeats in our mountains and a new route in the Himalaya, they proved
that they are top alpinists who straightforwardly follow their goals. They are certainly alpinists to count on also
in the future.
Julian Alps (JA), Triglav, N wall, Čop Pillar, 1000 m, M5 VI+,WP, alternating, 1000 m, 2 days
Himalaya, Janak, W wall, Blue Racer, 80° M4, 1100 m first ascent route (1400 m), 2 days
JA, Debela peč, Sekločeva, V, 500 m, WP, 12 h
JA, Mojstrovka, Pillar of the Poor, V+, WP, 500 m, alternating, 10h
Kamnik and Savinja Alps (KSA), Rzenik, n wall, Hellish Cedevita with Central Pillar, M9, 400
m, WP (Luka Stražar)
JA, Prisojnik, Devil's Pillar, V, M, WP, 5 h (Nejc Marčič)
Mont Blanc, Central Freney Pillar, VI AO, 900 m, 10 h, (Nejc Marčič)
Anastasija Davidova (AO PD Ljubljana–Matica), award for special achievements
Anastasija or Nastja Davidova is a top female alpinist who in recent years has been stringing top ascents at an enviably high
level. Mainly dedicated to rock climbing, she is no stranger to some difficult winter alpine route. In 2012 she
mainly focused on difficult rock free repeats in our walls, where especially the free repeat of
Sphinx Face stands out. She continued high-level ascents in the Dolomites and Western Alps. Certainly Nastja
is an alpinist to count on in the future.
Dolomites, Tofana di Rozes, Sognando aurora, 7b+, 600 m
Dolomites, Lastoni di Formin, Spiderman, VIII+/IX-, 300 m
Triglav, Sphinx Face, IX - IX+/VII, 160 m
Triglav, Metropolis, VIII+/IX-, VII+, 350 m
Gran Capucin, Voyages selon Gulliver, 7a+, 300 m, NP
Pilier Rouge del Clocher du Tacul, Empire State Building, 7c, 2 x AO, 250 m, free up to 7a+ NP
Piz Ciavazes, Schirata, IX-, 300m, NP
Vall del Orco, Segrent, Legoland, 7b+, 150m
Chamonix, Aig. des Pelerins, Beyond Good and Evil, V, 5+, M6, 600m, Tina di Batista, Caroline George
Andrej Grmovšek (APD Kozjak Maribor), award for special achievements
Andrej again and again proves that he is one of the best alpinists of the last two decades. Routes of the highest
rank and annual exceptional ingenuity in choosing expedition goals are his long-standing constant. Also
in 2012 he climbed some top routes at home, in the Dolomites and in Canadian Bugaboos.
KSA, Rzenik, Hellish Cedevita, IX-/IX,IV-V, 400 m
KSA, Križevnik, Hot line, 7b+, 300 m, NP/flash
Canada, North Howser Tower, Bugaboos, All Along the Watchtower, 5.12-, 1000m, NP (probably 1. FP
NP), 2 days
Canada, Snowpatch spire, Bugaboos, Tower arete, 5.12a, 350 m, NP
Canada, Snowpatch spire, Bugaboos, Sunshine crack, 5.11, 350 m, NP
Civetta, Dolomites, Chimera Verticale, IX, 900m, NP/flash
Dolomites, Cima Scotoni, Via Luciano Da Pozzo, 7c+, 450 m, NP
KSA, Križevnik forewall, Rajčeva route, 8a, 250m, FA
Dolomites, West Cima, Squirrels' Edge, VIII+, 500m, WP, FP, 10 h
Pennine Alps, Matterhorn, N, Piolla-Steiner - Zmutt Ridge, 5, M5, 1200m, 3 days, WP
Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje – Matica), award for special achievements
Luka is a representative of the generation of Slovenian new-age top alpinists. His annual list
of the hardest free repeated routes is exceptional, it was the same in 2012. He started the year on an adventurous expedition in
Venezuela, then continued the rock season with excellent difficult free repeats and difficult new routes
at home and abroad. With a fast ascent over Divine Providence and a free ascent in the classic Eiger route he
proved that he can climb at the highest level also in the highest and hardest European walls.
Squirrels' Edge, W Cima, Dolomites, VIII+, 500m, WP, to the top of W Cima
Divine Providence with Peuterey Ridge, GPA, Mt. Blanc, IX-, 900+600m, FP, NP, 32hrs
Classic route, Eiger, VI, M6, 6a, 1800m, FP, 3days
Purgatory, Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, 7b, 700m, NP in two days
Forest Gump, Rocchetta Alta, Dolomites, VIII+, 650m, FA
Touch of a Shy Angel, Ojstrica, Kamnik and Savinja Alps, VIII+, 500m, 1. FP
Takamajaka, Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, 7a, 300m, NP, 1. A
Martini/Leoni/Tranquillini, Rocchetta Alta, Dolomites, IX-, 650m, NP
Luka Lindič (AO PD Celje – Matica), award for special achievements
Luka is also a representative of the generation of Slovenian new-age top alpinists with an annual exceptional
list of the hardest climbed routes. Luka Lindič is probably the most versatile Slovenian alpinist at
the moment, as he can climb at a high level both in Himalayan walls and in the hardest alpine walls. In 2012
Luka strung an exceptional number of the hardest routes, at home and abroad, from difficult free repeats to first ascent
routes. We will follow Luka's further path with interest.
KSA, Rzenik, n wall, Hellish Cedevita with Central Pillar, M9, 400m, WP, FP, 2 days
Kamnik Savinja Alps, Križevnik forewall, Rajčeva route, 8a, 250m, 7h, FA
Ojstrica, North wall, Touch of a Shy Angel, VIII+, 450m, 1. FP, 10h
Martini/Leoni/Tranquillini, Rocchetta Alta, Dolomites, IX-, 650m, NP
Divine Providence with Peuterey Ridge, GPA, Mt. Blanc, IX-, 900+600m, FP, NP, 32h
Forest Gump, Rocchetta Alta, Dolomites, VIII+, 650m, FA
Iran, Bisoton, South wall, Golden Spatula, VII, 1000m, FA., 2 days, Marko Prezelj, Manu Pellissier,
Sam Beaugey
Heckmair, Eiger, VI, M6, 6a, 1800m, FP, 3days
Urban Novak (AO PD Kamnik), award for special achievements
Urban Novak is another representative of the young generation of Slovenian alpinists. Dedicated, straightforward and with developed
goals, in recent years he mainly devotes himself to expedition alpinism. Also in 2012 he went to Pakistani
Karakoram in the Charakusa area. With an ascent to the summit of K7 by a new route, he proved that he can in the hardest walls
of high mountains climb at the highest level.
Pakistan, K7 (6935m), east wall, M6, WI5, 1800 m, 51h, FA
Coire an Lochain, The Vicar, VII/8, 70m, NP
Ben Nevis, Siux wall-original route, VIII/8, 90 m, NP
Lady Finger, lower new part (IV, 400m)+east ridge (6c, 150 m), 6h
Most promising alpinist – Tadej Krišelj (AO PD Kamnik)
Tadej Krišelj is a young alpinist who has already drawn attention to himself many times in the past with his ascents. In recent years
Tadej climbs at the highest level both in winter and summer. In 2012 he focused mainly on difficult rock
repeats, and concluded the season with a free repeat of the classic route in Eiger. It is particularly gratifying that Tadej
did not give in to popular routes, but with an exploratory vein climbed many difficult and rarely
visited routes. We count on Tadej in the future as well.
Golarjeva peč, Little Prince, VIII/VIII+, 240 m
Kogel, Tina Jakofčič Memorial Route, VIII,200 m, NP
Vežica, Black Cat, VIII, 200 m, NP
Triglav, On the Other Side of Time, VIII
Dolomites, Bosconero, Via futura, VIII-, 600 m
Vršac, Pillar, VIII+/VIII, 600+400m, NP
Pic Badile, Another day in paradise, VII, 800 m
Triglav,Prusik-Szalay+ Franz Joseph Pillar, VII+, 300+700 m, NP
Šite, Čubi, VIII-, 500 m, NP
Eiger, Classic route, VI,M,1600 m
SPORT CLIMBING
RECOGNITIONS TO THE MOST SUCCESSFUL IN 2012
The Sport Climbing Commission at the end of this year's season decided, as usual, to announce the most successful
female sport climber and climber, in addition to award one recognition for top achievements and six recognitions
to young promising climbers for achieved results at world and European youth
championships and the overall standings of the European youth cup. At the same time, it decided for the first time to award also
recognition to the coaches of the most successful female sport climber and climber.
Most successful female sport climber: Mina Markovič (PK 6b Ptuj)
She is currently undoubtedly the best climber in competitive climbing in the world. After her overall victory in
the World Cup in difficulty and combination in the 2011 season, the only question was whether she can repeat this in
this year's season. Since they announce the winner of the combination of all disciplines in the World Cup, this has not
succeeded to anyone yet. Markovič proved that she was up to this demanding task, for which besides top
preparedness the athlete also needs a large measure of mental stability. The latter was decisive. Markovič
led all the way to the last competition in Kranj, where it was still possible to lose the cup. But right at
the last competition in front of home spectators she won once more and thus became the first competitor who succeeded
to defend the overall World Cup victory in difficulty and combination. At the end of the year she added to all this
also the title of national champion in both disciplines.
Most successful male sport climber: Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica),
He is a representative of the young generation that slowly and persistently takes the reins into its own hands. Despite the fact that in
youth competition at international competitions he stood on the podium ten times, certainly
his milestone this year is placement in the final of the senior World Cup in difficulty. Many times he was right on the edge of this placement, in the last season he succeeded in Atlanta. Let's add to this result also the title of national
senior champion in difficulty and a climbed route with grade 9a.
Maja Vidmar (PK Škofja Loka), recognition for top achievements in competitions
Despite being plagued by injuries, as so many times before, she proved that she belongs to the world top. At
World Cup competitions she stood on the podium three times, in the overall combination standings she
won 5th place.
Recognitions to promising for results at world and European youth championships and European
youth cup and for ascents in natural climbing areas
Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka)
Bronze medal at the world youth championship in difficulty and fourth place in the overall standings
of the European youth cup in difficulty.
Sergej Epih (PK Škofja Loka) – Bronze medal in the overall standings of the European youth cup in
difficulty.
Anže Peharc (ŠPO PD Tržič) – Gold medal at the world youth championship in difficulty, 2nd place in
the overall standings of the European youth cup in difficulty and 3rd place in the overall standings of the same cup
in bouldering.
Jure Raztresen (PK Škofja Loka) – Bronze medal from the world youth championship in difficulty.
Tim Unuk (PK Laško) – Third place at the European youth cup competition in difficulty.
Gregor Vezonik (AK Ravne) – Silver medal in the overall standings of the European youth cup in bouldering.
Recognitions to coaches:
Roman Krajnik (PK Škofja Loka) – Coach of Mina Markovič, the most successful female sport climber for 2012 and also
coach of the national senior team.
Uroš Grilc (ŠPO PD Radovljica) – Coach of Domen Škofic, the most successful male sport climber for 2012.
EVALUATIONS OF THE 2012 SEASON
Evaluation of the 2012 alpine season by the Alpine Commission PZS:
The start of winter in 2012 did not bring the desired and praised snow conditions from years 2010 and 2011. Serious
Slovenian walls were mostly empty. Only a few rare teams were active at the highest level. They deserve all
praise, as they proved that the popular excuse, "no conditions", simply does not hold. Still, some good winter repeats were performed, some also difficult free winter repeats. Besides the mentioned, winter 2012
will remain in memory also for climbed numerous difficult icefalls.
Some good winter ascents were performed in Italy, Switzerland, France, Scotland and Norway. The Alpine
Commission (KA) PZS traditionally organized a climbing camp for young promising alpinists in
Chamonix.
In the winter and spring period, quite a few Slovenian expeditions were active. A team climbed a nice
number of quality rock routes on an adventurous expedition in Venezuela. In Canada, one of the hardest
"Slovenian" icefalls was climbed. Patagonian weather in 2012 was not most favorable to our alpinists. In
different areas of Alaska there were many Slovenian expeditions with different goals. They climbed quite a few new
routes.
In the summer rock season, many Slovenian alpinists were active. In Slovenian walls, many
route repeats were performed, some also more serious and first free repeats and numerous first ascent routes, from easier to
the hardest. KA organized a climbing camp for young promising alpinists under Ojstrica.
Slovenian alpinists climbed at a high level also in Norway, Dolomites and Western Alps. Quite a few difficult free repeats, first ascent routes and fast ascents over demanding alpine routes were performed.
With the summer women's alpine camp in the Carnic Alps, KA wanted to encourage young Slovenian
female alpinists to greater activity.
In summer, three expeditions were active in Pakistan. Weather prevented a team from ascending Gasherbrum 1, on K7 a
new route was climbed. Another excellent achievement. The Carinthian expedition with a successful ascent to the summit of Broad
Peak showed what true team spirit means. Many Slovenian alpinists were active in Bolivia and Peru. In Kyrgyzstan there were two expeditions, one in the Kooshal-too area and the other in the Pamir Alai (Ak-Su) area.
Members of the latter expedition performed some quality ascents. The team in Bugaboo, Canada was also successful.
The rock climbing season extended into autumn. Slovenian alpinists continued climbing at a high
level both at home and abroad. Ascents were performed in Western Alps, Dolomites, Iran and Norway.
Also under the auspices of KA, the autumn camp in Chamonix for young promising alpinists took place. The latter
proved very successful and will become a constant in KA activities in the future.
The autumn expedition yield was marked by a successful expedition to Janak, where a team climbed a new
route in a still untouched wall and performed the second ascent to the summit. Before the end of the year came good news from
Patagonia, where a team climbed to the summit of Cerro Torre.
Something is characteristic for 2012. The main role of alpine activity has finally been taken over by a new generation
of young Slovenian alpinists, who are completely in tune with contemporary world alpine trends. In fact they
co-create and also change it. Logical and encouraging.
The year 2012 was marked by two more events. Two nominations and later the awarding of the prestigious Golden Ice Axe
award to a Slovenian team for one of the most prominent world alpine achievements in the past year and the establishment
of the Slovenian youth alpine team with which KA begins a new approach in supporting young
promising alpinists.
Results in alpinism do not come by themselves. They are a reflection of years of learning, gaining experience, training and
dedication to alpine activity. Therefore, deserving are both sections or clubs, the umbrella organization (PZS with commissions
KA and KOTG – commission for expeditions to foreign mountains) and clearly dedicated and ambitious alpinists.
In the future, we would like more interest in the highest mountains of the world, even more true adventurous and
exploratory alpinism (at home and abroad), a larger circle of alpinists climbing at the highest level and greater
activity of Slovenian sections or clubs.
Despite what was just written, we can be satisfied with the alpine year 2012.
Miha Habjan,
head of the Alpine Commission of the Slovenian Alpine Association
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Evaluation of the 2012 season by the Sport Climbing Commission PZS:
The view of the past year through the eyes of Slovenian competitive climbing is again extremely pleasant. Slovenia with
its competitive successes certainly maintains the status of one of the strongest teams in senior competition in
the world, the same applies to young climbers, who relentlessly knock on the doors of their older climbers, who were
their role models not long ago.
Mina Markovič succeeded in what only a few have done so far. She defended the title of overall World Cup
winner in difficulty and combination, in bouldering she won fourth place. Right at the last competition probably
injury prevented her from standing on the podium in the overall standings also in this discipline. Unfortunately, this very
injury prevented her from competing at the World Championships. Overall she stood on the podium nine times.
Besides her, Maja Vidmar also stood on the podium three times.
In the men's competition, younger competitors came to the fore this season, among whom especially
this year's European youth champion Domen Škofic should be mentioned. In Atlanta, he succeeded for the first time in his career to break into
the World Cup final. Together with Urban Primožič, who stood in the final for the first time at the end of last season,
they form a new hope for Slovenian men's sport climbing. In bouldering climbing among men at the end in
the overall World Cup standings among the top ten landed Jernej Kruder, while Klemen
Bečan in the World Cup in combination took overall seventh place.
The youth team at the biggest competitions (world and European championship and European cup) finished with
a record 29 placements among medal winners. Anže Peharc among older boys became world champion, silver
medal among juniors he added to the golden European Domen Škofic, bronze were brought home by Jure Raztresen
among juniors and Martin Bergant among cadets.
The World Cup competitions in Log and Kranj are organized at the highest level, where the world
climbing caravan always returns in exceptional numbers. This year to the joy of home fans again with Slovenian
victory at both competitions directed by Mina Markovič, who was joined on the podium in Kranj also by Maja
Vidmar.
It may sound a bit conceited, but we hope we have instilled hope in many for more positivism and
shown that despite crisis times big obstacles can be overcome with immense will, hard work, and
of course self-confidence in achieving the highest goals. Both in sports and life in general these are qualities that
enable ascent to the top of Olympus.
Borut Kavzar,
head of the Sport Climbing Commission PZS