The Spark of Tonet's Word

The selected works of Tone Škarja titled "Iskri se beseda," published by Planinska založba, represent the literary legacy of his rich life experiences in alpinism and himalajism. They were edited by the publicist Žarko Rovšček, who emphasizes that they offer an opportunity to delve into the depths of his life wisdom, reflections, and spirited responses to events around him: "Let his perceptive spirit continue to ignite even after Tonet's departure, let his word spark!" Rovšček will present the book to readers on November 27 at the Slovenian Book Fair in Ljubljana, and on December 11 under the auspices of the Brati gore festival in Tonet's hometown of Kamnik.<br> <br> Alpinist, mountain rescuer, mountain guide, writer, and photographer Tone Škarja (1937-2020) was, along with Aleš Kunaver (1935-1984), the main architect of the Slovenian Himalayan story. He participated in 18 alpinistic expeditions, five times as a member and 13 times as their leader: Caucasus (1964), Kangbačen (1965, 1974, 2007), Everest (1978, 1979, 1996), Jalung Kang (1985), Tibet (1986), Čo Oju (1988, 2001), Šiša Pangma (1989), Kangčendzenga (1991), Anapurna (1992, 1995), Sikkim (1994), Daulagiri (1998), and Ama Dablam (2005). The expedition to Everest in 1979 is still considered the greatest organizational and logistical challenge in the history of Slovenian himalajism.<br> <br> With his versatile, dedicated, and exceptional work, he left an indelible mark on Slovenian and world alpinism. As leader of the 1979 Everest expedition, he received the Bloudkovo nagrado that same year, and in 2011 the Bloudkovo plaketo for lifetime achievement in sports. Among other honors, in 2002 he was awarded the Honorary Sign of Freedom of the Republic of Slovenia for his work in the mountaineering organization, in 2014 he received the first-ever PZS award for lifetime achievement in alpinism, and in 2019 he became an honorary member of the Planinska zveza Slovenije.<br><br><br><br>He was also a very prolific writer, author of several books, mainly about expeditions and his mountaineering path. His signature bears autobiographical works The Walls of My Life (1975), Jalung Kang (1987), Kangchendzonga, Mountain of Destiny (2008) and On My Trail (2011), which is a unique document of the mountaineering of Škarja's era. He was co-author of numerous literary works, in addition, a feature-length documentary film Tone, come in! (2015) was made about the era of Slovenian mountaineering. Although his writing reveals a precise and critical observer, sometimes also a cold analyst, his works exude a sense of adventure, they are also distinguished by deep, almost philosophical thought about mountaineering, above all humanity, notes Žarko Rovšček. <br> <br> If his book On My Trail is an autobiographical depiction of his life and at the same time a documented overview of the history of mountaineering of his time, the selected works Sparks of the Word are his literary reflection, emphasizes Žarko Rovšček: "Just like for any other author, writing was for Tone Škarja an opportunity in which he confessed his personal view of the world around him and expressed his value judgments. These are at least worthy of consideration, often also admiration, in the field of mountaineering and himalaism, and generally due to rich life experiences. His literary heritage gives us the opportunity again to delve into the depth of his life wisdom, reflections and his sparkling responses to events around him. It also teaches us that mountaineering is not pervaded solely by romance. Often behind the shining achievements in home and foreign mountains there is a hard struggle of personalities, confrontation of different opinions and views on its development, which is evident especially in the striving for an adequate share of - at least in the opinion of mountaineers - always rather modest state and sponsor funds."<br><br>The basis for the work was a list of Škarja's publications, compiled years ago by the tireless France Malešič (who also provided professional review of the book), and further supplemented by Rovšček. He was greatly helped by copies of articles gathered by Uršula Debevec, which considerably eased the arduous search. He also added known publications in foreign press. The first half of the book consists of an editorial commentary with indication of title, source, and mostly a short discussion on the content of each article. The second half comprises a selection of 42 articles published in the Slovenian press. About a third of them are from Planinski vestnik, in which Škarja as an author began and also concluded his literary career just before his farewell. The remaining two thirds belong to articles from the newspaper Delo, Alpinističnih razgledov, Grifa, Obvestil PZS, and his articles can also be found in the archive of the former Tedenska tribuna (TT), Slovenca and Razgledov, Primorskih novic, Večera, Gorenjskega glasa, Idrijskih razgledov etc. The selection is concluded with thought fragments from Škarja's interviews. "Among the articles, we encounter polemical writings on issues of mountain organization, nature conservation, alpinism, and organization of Himalayan expeditions, that is, areas in which he was most involved. In between are also travelogue contributions, essays, columns, editorials, speeches, etc. Thus, his own penetrating writing, with sparkling thoughts, also contributed to the title of the book: Iskrì se beseda," explains Rovšček.<br><br>Some literary biographies of Tone Škarja are also given a special touch by photographs. A wider selection, which is only part of the rich and extensive father's archive, was first carried out by Metod Škarja. He was followed by an editorial excerpt, which had to adapt to the outlined scope of the book and the quality of the photographs, and it is also supplemented with numerous glimpses of Škarja's companions. In addition to the usual data, placement in place and time of creation, Rovšček equipped the photographs with characteristic Škarja's quotes, which in their own way illuminate his thought, revive memory and illustrate individual milestones of his life - if we take only one for illustration: "With mountains, rivers, movement of air masses, ice, forests and most of all with people, the Himalaya is a mighty image of creation. It touches you when you least expect it. It brings the unprepared to their knees, tears your soul and lifts it to unforeseen heights, in the same moment it shows you your own power and nothingness, greatness and insignificance, your transience in the hour of eternity."<br><br>Editor and co-author of the book Iskri se beseda Žarko Rovšček is a retired veterinary medicine doctor, otherwise a mountain enthusiast since his youth, who completes half a century of fruitful work in the Tolmin Mountaineering Association, where he has also been the editor-in-chief of the association's newsletter Krpelj for 24 years. As a publicist, he is an avid researcher of the recent past of the Primorska region and mountain history, who among other things edited the collection Century of Mountaineering in Tolmin (1996) with a rich chronicle of PD Tolmin. He was the editor-in-chief of the collection Zorko Jelinčič - beyond neglect and myth (2000), with the books Under the red pencil - letters from Zorko Jelinčič's prison (2005) and I live in words - Collected works of Zorko Jelinčič (2011) he completed knowledge about one of the most prominent Primorska patriots, the Tigrovca, publicist and mountaineer Zorko Jelinčič. He also edited the book parts of the popular Tolmin doctor, later surgeon, doctor on several Himalayan expeditions and mountain rescuer dr. Jože Andlovic Through the gorge of the Second World War (2008) and When you go to the mountain pasture - Diary of a Himalayan doctor (2018) and wrote an extensive foreword for them.<br><br><br><br>Zorko Jelinčič, dr. Jože Andlovic and Tone Škarja are Rovšček's common point, but what is common to these three personalities to whom he has paid literary tribute? "Among them there are certainly certain, greater or smaller character differences. The only and main common denominator for all three is the mountains; unyielding loyalty, admiration of the useless world (here I found common points also with my own, much more modest efforts). Everything else that happened to each of the trio in life are merely variations on the basic theme. Incredibly, how the majestic, perhaps also idealized image of the mountains accompanies us at every step. In all possible life trials, it calls upon us, gives us strength and motivation also for life's steps in other areas that are inextricably linked with everything we live."<br><br>Škarja and Rovšček were both exceptionally well-read and knowledgeable observers and researchers of the world, who had been collaborating closely for a long time, and very intensively during Tonet's final period. "The main, one might say working motivation, which also led to the proposal for publishing selected writings, was first and foremost the imperative that alerted me and others that such an extensive literary legacy as Škarja's had to be gathered and processed in one place. This tribute to his life's efforts we owe him out of respectful remembrance, in gratitude for everything he did, and also because he was a passionate lover of the written word. It's a pity that Tone cannot share the joy of this book's publication with us," we can affirm Žarko Rovšček's words, who adds: "The closest wisdom to me are his words, also used in the book: Everyone tries to leave at least a trace or a scratch on Earth that will outlive them. This is the most natural driving force of all human history. What appears to be an eternal cycle is in reality an ascent in a spiral. In alpinism, it's no different. Tone has already erected his own literary gravestone. I hope I contributed at least a tiny bit to ensuring that the memory of his literary scratches endures as a permanent imprint of his penetrating thoughts."<br><br>Iskrì se beseda sparkles in Ljubljana and Kamnik<br><br>On Wednesday, November 27, 2024, at 11 a.m., Žarko Rovšček will introduce the book Iskrì se beseda to readers at the Slovenian Book Fair in Ljubljana. At the Writers' Stage at the Gospodarsko Razstavišče, he will be in conversation with Manca Ogrin.<br><br>Škarja's word will sparkle in his hometown Kamnik as well, at the Brati gore 2024 festival. On International Mountain Day, December 11, 2024, at 6 p.m., in the premises of the Kamnik Mountain Rescue Service Association, Žarko Rovšček, Franc Malešič, and Bojan Pollak will be in conversation with Mojca Volkar Trobevšek.