Thoughtfully, gradually and responsibly into the mountains in winter
4.12.2024
For winter activities in the mountains, one must first be confident in summer mountain visits, then thoughtfully, gradually and responsibly tackle winter ascents that one is capable of — this was the warning issued by the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS) at a press conference marking the start of the winter mountaineering season on Krvavec on 4 December 2024. Visiting snow-covered mountains is not simply summer hiking with winter equipment and extra clothing; the key factors are proper training, thorough preparation, correct use of appropriate equipment, extensive experience, knowledge of the mountain environment in winter conditions, and correct and responsible decision-making during the tour. Gradually acquiring experience is also important, and the treasury of such experience lies in the numerous mountaineering clubs throughout Slovenia.
As was already evident in the snowy blizzard on foggy Krvavec, mountains in winter demand a mature visitor who masters technical aids, possesses knowledge of mountain hazards, weather, orientation and movement, and above all a great deal of knowledge, experience and responsibility, along with respect for the mountains and the awareness that the mountain will wait. Damjan Omerzu, General Secretary of the Alpine Association of Slovenia and mountaineering education instructor, urges lovers of snow-covered mountains to approach both high-altitude and mid-mountain areas responsibly: “In winter, approach the mountains thoughtfully, gradually and responsibly! Choose tours you are psychophysically capable of, with fully appropriate equipment that you know how to use. You need sufficient experience and mileage gradually built up over the years on easier tours. Approach tours holistically — from the idea and preparation to the execution — since a tour only ends with the safe return home of all participants. There is nothing wrong with turning back and returning to the valley if a situation is unsafe due to subjective or objective circumstances, or initially choosing a different goal that is more suitable and safer under the given conditions.”
“It is very important to know our equipment well, that it is flawless and that we know how to use it correctly, while selecting it according to the tour, since different levels of difficulty require adapted equipment. Special care is needed when preparing equipment for high mountains. When using crampons, we hold an ice axe rather than trekking poles, with gloves obligatory and a helmet on the head. Visiting high mountains also requires the avalanche trio — avalanche transceiver, probe and shovel — or even quartet, the trio plus an avalanche backpack, which assists in searching for anyone buried in an avalanche,” emphasises Marko Petek, president of the Kamnik Mountaineering Club and alpine instructor.
In addition to technical equipment for winter mountain walking, we need all the equipment required for summer dry conditions, plus good winter mountaineering boots and high-quality clothing that protects against wind, cold and moisture. Protection from strong sun is necessary; we must not forget spare clothing, plenty of warm fluids and food in the backpack, along with a map, headlamp, fully charged phone, first aid kit and aluminium foil or a large bag for protection against hypothermia.
Marko Petek warns of the increasingly common inappropriate use of so-called mini-crampons or chains, which are a good aid for safer steps on gentler terrain, such as forest roads and plateaus where major slips are unlikely and help prevent falling on gentle or icy surfaces. However, using mini-crampons on steeper slopes poses the risk of them coming off the boots, as they are attached only by elastic. Full contact with the ground is also lacking, increasing the risk of slipping and injury or even death due to the incline. For steeper terrain, the only proper choice is suitable crampons that are rigidly attached to appropriate winter boots. It is also important to decide when to put on crampons and replace poles with an ice axe — this must be done in a safe place before they are truly needed.
Snow-covered mountains are attracting ever more visitors — from hikers and walkers to alpinists and ski tourers — who must be aware of the importance of good tour preparation, stresses Miha Habjan, vice-president of the PZS and mountain guide: “Good preparation allows us to approach a tour thoughtfully and comprehensively assess the various factors that contribute to safer execution. These include appropriate psychophysical fitness, sufficient training and experience of participants. Additionally, preparing suitable equipment, studying conditions and weather, reviewing guidebooks and online sources while considering their reliability, planned timetables, tour tactics, execution plan, potential hazards, logistics and everything else that affects safer tour completion.”
Winter mountain visits are characterised by lower temperatures, shorter days, highly variable snow conditions, hidden markings or orientation difficulties, more complex decision-making due to changing snow and ice conditions, avalanche (un)safety, frequent strong winds and fog, closed mountain huts in high areas, longer approaches due to closed roads and more difficult movement in snow.
“The greater complexity of tours requires better psychophysical preparation of participants, appropriate training and more experience, which build on summer mountain visits. Winter mountain activity is by no means summer hiking with crampons, an ice axe and extra clothing. The summer component is a prerequisite; winter requires enormous investment in training, learning and gradual accumulation of mileage, demanding far more time and energy. In winter, mountains are far more unpredictable than in summer, so we must plan winter tours more thoughtfully and execute them more cautiously to ensure sufficient safety for ourselves and all participants. This applies especially to high mountains,” adds Miha Habjan based on his extensive guiding experience.
Gradual acquisition of experience is crucial for winter mountain visits, and a rich source of this is the 300 clubs operating under the Alpine Association of Slovenia, present in practically every Slovenian town with varied programmes. “The most common way to gradually gain experience and knowledge is regular participation in organised tours led by PZS guides. Some clubs offer short introductory winter courses that do not qualify participants for independent mountain travel but provide a basic introduction to equipment and winter hill conditions. For individuals seeking advanced knowledge for more demanding movement and climbing in mountains in both winter and summer, clubs and alpine sections organise alpine schools,” explained Damjan Omerzu, General Secretary of the PZS.
Omerzu also highlighted the benefits of membership in a mountaineering club, which, besides access to training and guided tours, offers tailored accident insurance for members, liability insurance and rescue insurance abroad, discounts in mountain huts in Slovenia and elsewhere, and the company of like-minded people with whom to plan and pursue mountaineering goals.