Three demanding first ascents...

Three demanding first ascents by Davidova and Jošt in the Indian Himalaya.



Slovenian alpinists Nastja Davidova and Matic Jošt have made the first ascents on three six-thousanders in the almost alpinistically untouched Raru range in the Indian Himalaya: Khumchu Ri (6068 m), Kun Long Ri (6058 m) via the route Happy Journey and Ri Pok Te (6210 m) via the route From East to West, all in alpine style and via demanding virgin routes.

The Slovenian alpinistic expedition Raru 2015, which took place from July 20 to September 9, 2015 and was supported by the Alpine Association of Slovenia, was only the second expedition after the British Imperial College expedition in 2011 to the alpinistically almost still unexplored mountains above the Tetleh valley, located in the northwest of Raru in the Zanskar region in northern India. "In the excellent and successful adventure expedition to the unexplored Indian Raru range by Matic and Nastja, who succeeded in climbing three previously unconquered peaks over six thousand meters high in a short time, the particularly difficult new rock route From East to West on the 6210 m high Ri Pok Te stands out. The entire expedition, both logistically and climbing-wise, was carried out in a style that can serve as an example to many alpinists," commented Miha Habjan, head of the Alpine Commission of the PZS.



"Slovenia has a rich tradition of alpinistic expeditions to less explored mountain areas around the world, not just in the Himalaya. Our expedition successfully continues this tradition. I am convinced that Slovenian alpinists will not be afraid of somewhat greater white spots on the map in the future either. Many around the world appreciate us for this as well," said expedition leader Matija Jošt (AO PD Celje-Matica) about the exploratory spirit upon return from India, who has participated in numerous expeditions in his long-term high-level alpinistic activity, as has his climbing partner Nastja Davidova (AO PD Ljubljana-Matica), the most successful alpinist in 2011, 2013, and 2014 according to the Alpine Association of Slovenia and multiple-time best female alpinist of the City Municipality of Ljubljana, who added: "I am satisfied that we managed to climb three new peaks. For me, it was the second experience at six thousand meters altitude and the first where I was searching for passages in the virgin world of high-altitude granite with the awareness that we were the first humans stepping on pristine nature. I admit, it feels different than repeating a route."



Davidova and Jošt also assisted in mapping the remote valley and identifying surrounding peaks during the ascents. All three first ascents on the Indian six-thousanders were done in alpine style, i.e., without fixed ropes and intermediate camps, only bivouacking in the wall. On August 5, they ascended the 6068 m high summit, which they named Khumcho Ri due to its pointed summit pyramid, meaning bird's beak in the Ladakhi language, and rated the 1000 m long virgin route as demanding with D+. From August 13 to 17 followed the first ascent of the 6058 m high peak, which they named Kun Long Ri, meaning positive motivation in Tibetan. The 1500 m virgin route, rated as very demanding with TD+, they named Happy Journey.



Between August 25 and 27, 2015, they crowned the expedition with the most demanding ascent of the mountain Ri Pok Te (6210 m), as the locals call it. Their third virgin route, 1200 m long, they named From East to West and rated it TD+/ED- on the border between very demanding and extremely difficult climbing, i.e., between 5th and 6th, the highest grade on the French scale. "When we reached the edge of the east wall on the second day of climbing, we initially thought we had chosen the wrong ascent route, as the ridge to the summit looked (too) difficult. With stubborn but thoughtful persistence, we made a bypass via the west wall and were rewarded with the summit. We led the route through the area of the easiest natural passages that the mountain offered, as befits first ascensionists," described Jošt the ascent of Ri Pok Te. "We were well acclimatized and wanted climbing on compact, sunlit rock. The wish was granted and the sky favored us with three days of good weather. In alpine style, we managed to ascend our third peak, which the locals know as Ri Pok Te, meaning the peak from which you can see to the other side," recalls Davidova.



"I can calmly say that their expedition reflects the primal spirit of alpinism, which is both classic exploration and modern top-level climbing. As a border area under military control, connections to the world are only possible classically, i.e., half a century back. A few years ago, the Grmovšek couple did similar things in Sichuan, but unfortunately the expedition of Aleš Holc and Peter Mežnar on the north side of Karakorum in a similarly semi-closed area ended tragically. For Jošt and Davidova, fortune favors the bold prevailed. Sincere congratulations!" rated the achievement Tone Škarja, leader of several Slovenian alpinistic expeditions to the Himalaya.