Well-prepared sport climbers in the fight for new medals

August will be marked by the European sport climbing championship, where more than 200 of the world's top sport climbers from 26 countries will compete from August 11 to 18 in Munich, Germany. The Slovenian sport climbing national team is also heading into the battle for new medals and testing the new Olympic discipline of bouldering - lead.

The Slovenian sport climbing team is heading to this year's European Championship (EC) in a very strong contingent, for which the boys and girls fought throughout the season and secured the maximum number of quotas. Thus, 13 members of the Slovenian national team are traveling to Munich. In individual disciplines and the bouldering-lead combination, Janja Garnbret, Mia Krampl, Vita Lukan, Lučka Rakovec, Luka Potočar, Zan Lovenjak Sudar, and Gregor Vezonik will compete. Boulder specialists Katja Debevec, Anže Peharc, and Jernej Kruder are going, while only in lead Domen Škofic, Milan Preskar, and young Sara Čopar will participate.


According to the Slovenian sport climbing national team selector Gorazd Hren, medals at this year's championship are achievable, and the motivated team is heading to Germany with high goals. "Medals are definitely achievable, but not a given, since all the best Europeans who reach for the top spots in the World Cup itself will be competing."


In the final days of the championship, the new Olympic combination (bouldering and lead) will also be on the schedule. "Due to the demanding schedule, some of our athletes decided to compete only in their discipline. Candidates for the combination are Janja, Vita, Mia, Luka, Gregor, and Zan, all aiming for final qualification, which will require strong performances in both disciplines or perhaps a top result in one. How the final turns out will be seen at the venue itself, as it's a new discipline with a new scoring system. We don't hide our high expectations."

The boys tested the new wall at Koper Climbing Center - Plus climbing for the first time today, the girls will tomorrow. The center combines bouldering, speed, and lead climbing disciplines, providing Slovenian national team members with the best training conditions. As emphasized by national team coach in sport climbing and head of the Koper Plus Climbing center Luka Fonda, the center is unique in Slovenia and offers excellent training tools for the national team. "Here is an excellent facility for Olympic combination training in bouldering and lead, and it enables standalone speed discipline training, which is a big step forward."


Olympic champion Janja Garnbret, who does not yet have the European champion title in an individual discipline in her collection, has four lead wins and one bouldering win this year. "Judging by results, my form is exactly where it should be, and of course I'm going for gold. I'll do my best to succeed. I approach every competition with the same focus. I nearly eliminated nerves after the Olympics, but that doesn't mean I'm any less focused. I'm also going to test the new Olympic combination format and actual scoring. True, some girls I shared World Cup podiums with will be missing, but competition remains very strong. I hope the routes are demanding, tough enough, and that I enjoy each one."


Vita Lukan, whose participation in the last European Championship in Moscow was prevented by a COVID-19 infection, was second in bouldering at the 2019 EC. This year's competition will be tighter due to the new Olympic format test than three years ago in Zakopane. "Still, I think it'll be easier to achieve a standout result than at the World Cup, where Americans and Asians are showing excellent, consistent form in both lead and bouldering this year. Of course, European competition can't be underestimated, as top athletes remain on the start list. Certainly, someone from the background can surprise."


In 2019, she missed the lead European Championship due to injury, so this year she really wants to show well in both disciplines. "Though I've focused more on lead in recent months, I believe I can do well in bouldering too, leading to a combined final. But I don't want extra pressure; I still see it as two separate disciplines, and qualifying for the new Olympic final would be the cherry on top."

At the last EC in Edinburgh, Mia Krampl finished 11th in lead. She competed at the Olympics in between, improved her form, and is confident she can do better. She'll compete in bouldering and lead. "My last EC wasn't the most successful. This year I feel good and know I can improve. I hope to show it. I didn't prepare specifically for the combination. As usual, I trained bouldering early season, switching to endurance two months before World Cup leads. My focus before EC is also lead."

Luka Potočar competed at the 2019 EC as an 18-year-old and placed 8th. After excellent results last and this year, he aims for a medal now. "Goals are high for sure. Time has passed since the last EC, and results have improved a lot. I hope to talk about a medal afterward, maybe even gold."

Luka Potočar will compete in his lead discipline at EC, where he achieved best 4th places at World Cups in Innsbruck and Chamonix this year. But he'll also do bouldering at EC, skipping World Cups there. "I made big progress in bouldering early season. European Cups gave me needed experience, and lately I've included bouldering in training."

His goals target 2024 Olympics, requiring hard work, and this combined event is an early test for him and others.

Anže Peharc achieved career-best silver in Salt Lake City this year, and after that performance, expectations for EC are high. "I know I'm well-prepared and proved it. My goal is definitely finals, which slipped away last time, then just climb and enjoy. Result will come. Of course I want a medal, especially since I know I can. But I won't stress, as it caused unnecessary nerves before. Goal is to climb confidently, mistake-free."


Last two weeks he trained in French climbing gyms, then a master comp where he placed 3rd. "Great competition simulation. This week another with team, then taper to arrive rested and fresh."

This sport climbing EC, part of eight other sports, will be live on Slovenian TV 2.

After 14 rest days, athletes head to the Coast for World Cup #26 in Koper on Sept 2-3. Tickets available: free from PRVA (general sponsor), or Eventim outlets.