26.06.2014. I've been tempted by the Friulian Dolomites for a while now. Few people visit them, although they are the closest Italian Dolomites to us. I first visited these parts this winter, when I went on skis to Monte Ferraro (2,258 m). Then I decided to return.
From Ljubljana to the starting point at Pordenone hut (1,269 m) in Cimoliana valley is less than three hours drive (Lj.-Fernetiči-Videm-Spilimbergo-Maniago-Cimolais). From the parking lot below the hut I head onto path no. 353, which leads through Val Montanaia valley. The path goes through forest for a short time, then soon I find myself on a vast scree field where markings occasionally disappear. Nevertheless, it's clear to just go up the valley. In the middle part of the scree the "bell tower", Campanile di val Montanaia, appears for the first time, a very interesting tower considered the landmark of the whole area (the easiest climbing route to it is rated IV+/IV). The marked path becomes traceable again in the upper part, right below the "bell tower", bypassing it on the right. After an hour and a half of walking I reach bivouac Perugini (2,060 m), standing on a grassy plateau. I could hardly describe the uniqueness and beauty of this spot, so let me just say this path "pays off" even if you take ascent to the bivouac as the goal. From there I head towards the western walls; first a slight descent, then soon up again on path no. 357 leading to Forcela Segnata saddle (and further to Padova hut). About 100 meters below the saddle I leave the marked path and turn into the left gully. The several tens of meters long gully ends with a short chimney on the right (5 m, II). After climbing it I find myself on a small saddle from which I descend about 10 meters. Here I spot the first cairn confirming I'm on the right path. Then I don't turn right, but traverse the scree (snowfield) and continue about 100 meters up to the next saddle. Meanwhile on the right I already see the long ledge circling the summit structure of the mountain. From the saddle I turn left and climb over an exposed passage to the long ledge (after walking about 50 meters along the ledge, I notice a narrow and dark gully down which I'll descend with rope help). Continuing on the exposed long ledge is a unique experience, the beauty of rock structures is exceptional. Among them stands out the three-towered Punta Pia, appearing around the corner. Towards it I walk another 150-200 m, then leave the ledge and climb an exposed wall (10 m, II; at the end anchor of dubious quality). Exposure eases a bit but is still great; I find myself on narrow ledges; careful with cairns and logical passages. Follows the hardest 5 meters ascent, done on an indistinct chimney (II+/III; below the chimney small terrace with cairn). Thus I reach the broken summit part of the mountain. I climb a bit right to a small saddle; summit is another 12 m exposed wall away (II, at top anchor for descent). At the summit after good three and a half hours. Proud and happy I sit a bit and enjoy the views. From the summit descend with rope (12 m). At the mentioned saddle, right below summit wall, enter the gravelly gully (left, towards valley with "bell tower"); soon reach first drop, second rope descent follows (20 m, anchor somewhat uncomfortable position; watch falling rocks). Continue descent through increasingly narrow gully and soon spot next anchor (25 m, narrow chimney); exit to the long ledge walked in the morning. From there descend ascent path and finish with cold beer at Pordenone hut. Conclusion: I'll return to this wild world
Warning: Ascent suitable only for experienced and properly equipped mountaineers. Recommend belaying.