Normal Route | Cimon del Froppa

Type: Interesting

Description:
Very satisfying route to the highest summit of Marmarole. From Forcella Froppa descend the scree slope to Forcella Marmarole until finding a track on the left traversing towards a hidden gully. Up steep but well-stepped rocks (cairns), reach the gully head and soon Forcella Kugy. Here starts the normal route with the hardest passage immediately: a 5m III-grade crack on overhanging rock, followed by a 5m easier chimney (piton at end). Short move left then up another short II-grade chimney. Following essential cairns overcome another easier chimney to graze a crest saddle. Traverse right on tracks to gain the bottom of a wide gully that via well-stepped rock leads to the summit ridge in sight of the cross (1 hour from Forcella Kugy). On the hardest pitch we found a well-anchored sling that helps a lot. For descent we didn't rappel. In that case take great care on the chimney before the sling.

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Video length: 09:14