Adrenalin E, Dopamin E/F, near Lienz (Gries)
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| coffee9. 05. 2018 13:02:36 |
I guess the difference is pretty obvious.
Just like if you fixed a rope at the top of a 6a and then progressed from below using your legs and pulling on the rope. Climbing-wise such an ascent doesn't mean much.
Also about soloing in ferratas. Isn't it equally pointless, like saying you soloed Plemenice or Hanz's/Kopiščar's on Prisank or the secured one on Šmarna?
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| coffee9. 05. 2018 13:47:45 |
Ummm, I don't know if I understood you correctly.
Does that mean that in terms of difficulty/technique/strength it's comparable to pull yourself up a grade 6 (or any other) route on a fixed rope or to climb it normally?
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| coffee9. 05. 2018 14:42:52 |
So fixing a cable/rope in the route lowers the grade. From there my opinion that the difference is obvious.
Just as a curiosity about grades, Mašera compares the above-mentioned secured paths on his scale to C/D-D on the Austrian ferrata scale. But that's a matter of taste.
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| dprapr9. 05. 2018 15:46:08 |
In Dachstein there's no "uninteresting jump or isolated rock", but a nice wall.
And in many other places. I hope they don't go higher here with us.
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| SamoK14. 07. 2019 19:43:29 |
True, picture 5 is a typical free climber's pose.
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| exwannabe15. 07. 2019 09:03:11 |
Come on, don't make me laugh. Hanging on cables with boots, yeah, really similar. SamoK wrote it nicely to you. But we know that we know nothing and someone knows everything.
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| don kihott15. 07. 2019 11:44:06 |
When an alpinist or sport climbing egocentric bites into a ferrata or (more professionally hanging on cables)
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| don kihott15. 07. 2019 11:51:24 |
I think there are plenty of walls for everyone where we can hang on cables or pull on bolts or hammer pitons etc...etc and we won't meet in that activity ...Primož knows what he's talking about and I completely agree with him...The fact is that we are different and we usually see and perceive the same thing differently..
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| janezs7321. 10. 2019 11:01:14 |
Yesterday my colleague and I visited the ferratas around the Galitzenbach gorge near Lienz.
We started with Dopamin (official E, 150 m) and Masohist variant (official E/F, 80 m), went back down the upper part of Dopamin to the start of Masohist and up it again and back down to the parking lot.
In the second round we first did the Galitzenklamm klettersteig ferrata along the water (official C, approx 50 m), from the viewpoint above the waterfall we went back to Endorphine ferrata (official C, approx 120m) and finally from it back to the waterfall viewpoint, from where we approached Adrenalin ferrata via Luna variant (official E, 250 m).
The reason for such a complicated combination is that after Dopamin and Adrenalin ferratas we return to the parking lot outside the fence, so we need a new entry ticket if we want to get back to the start of any other ferrata.
All ferratas are exemplarily equipped, the parts by the water are clearly (!) wet, slippery, slimy and whatever other impossible adjectives. The other higher parts are dry (if you're lucky with the weather).
But there are obviously issues with the grades. My colleague and I agree that the hardest ferrata is not Masohist at all, none of whose parts exceed E, but the Luna part in Adrenalin, which I'd give E/F, as it has exactly the same moves as the hardest part in Kitzlohklamm or Geiler Hengst ferrata. Adrenalin is also the hardest due to length, many parts on the bergsteigen.com map are graded at least half a grade too low - e.g. C/D is pure D, and almost all Cs are actually C/Ds. The same applies to the other two "family" ferratas, which are by no means just C, but C/D, as there are places where the body is already quite obviously hanging on the arms and moves require foot smearing. If I imagine people in these ferratas who aren't used to such moves, the difficulties can be big.
Overall the combination makes 550 vertical meters of ferrata (so I won't start the climbing debate again, which is fruitless and leads nowhere). More than half of these meters are C/D or higher, about 100 m D/E or higher. For those who can manage it, pure pleasure.
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| janezs7322. 10. 2019 13:35:45 |
Thanks Primož! Following your footsteps (one of your posts gave me the idea to familiarize myself a bit better with the options here)...
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