Labot / Lavamünd - via ferrata / Austria
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| geppo26. 06. 2010 13:04:10 |
Lavamünd - via ferrata / Austria
On Friday, 25.6.2010, I used the free day to visit the ferrata in Austria.
I've had it eyed for a while, but domestic mountains had priority so far.
I took advantage of the national holiday and didn't expect crowds in the crag, which opened in 2007.
We parked at the start of Lavamünd (first crossing over the tracks to the right) in a spacious parking lot.
A narrow asphalt road led us under the hill and after a steep path we were under the wall in ten minutes.
The right side is for climbers, left is the ferrata rated C/D.
We didn't expect anyone, but activities under the wall surprised us. They were preparing for a party and setting up "fire brigade tables and benches".
We prepared gear and assessed the wall. The wall is about 60 to 70m high (by eye). Lower part easy, upper expects some adrenaline.
No clipping until the vertical. The vertical has pegs for the longer-legged (even I with my long legs can't reach). No panic, it's nicely doable...
Vertical followed by a traverse a bit to the right (not hard), then more serious. Left traverse without footholds and tight (nicely doable).
Then the key part - small overhang D and quite adrenalized. When photographing and looking down at the audience, I feel the adrenaline flowing through the body. Before this wall part, it's good to gather some strength in the arms (you'll need it..).
But it goes! That peg sticking alone from the wall plays its role.
Then small traverse right and vertical to the wall end (nothing special - pegs).
Last 20m don't even clip. With buddy return via "Stations of the Cross" back under wall (ca. 15 min).
Repeat the route immediately once more and now almost no adrenaline - classic!
When back under the wall again... we notice!
Guys set up beer dispenser and we treat ourselves to frosty mugs of beer (mmmnnn..).
Wipe foam from lips and up the wall again. Going a bit too fast (no photos) and left hand slips a bit clipping the slings at the hardest part. Later from pics realize I did the wall in 13 minutes.
Enough for today. Guys announce "Oberkrainer music", we pack gear.
Return home via Pliberk and enjoy a bit of Carinthia.
- nice ferrata for training
- if a bit longer, would be very nice
- not crumbly
- in wet, earth in wall can cause some trouble
- spacious parking
try it!! Regards
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| mikk1. 08. 2010 22:37:34 |
Here. Today climbed the wall :-) 3x
First ascent no problem 11 minutes, and I wasn't even rushing, because I was learning clipping...
Second ascent long, because I took pics around. Third ascent I tried minimal rope grabs, more on rocks...
It seemed very easy - almost too easy, except two overhangs, which were real, but short...
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| s51kq7. 08. 2010 21:11:04 |
For a serious test of abilities climb this school via ferrata without pegs and brackets, only on friction! Up and then down the same way. That is, "allowed" is grabbing the cable and rock, feet exclusively on rock friction. Even in overhanging wall parts.
This climbing simulates a higher difficulty level (D, D/E) than now in the ferrata, which is stuffed with brackets. Whoever can manage such a test without major difficulties can think about D/E vias in the high mountains. Of course, similar difficulty awaits there (lack of brackets and overhanging or slab wall), but on a much larger scale.
Lots of fun gaining experience!
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| wolphgang29. 01. 2011 09:06:38 |
could also use Slovenian name "LABOT"
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| Keko10. 04. 2012 00:13:05 |
Since high mountains looked bad due to new snow yesterday, two grandpas and three women went to Austrian Lavamünd for fitness training on local via ferrata rated D. Since four have harder ferratas from last season behind us, we tackled it quite relaxed.
After easier start, first harder part vertical up already first selection, as we saw today: a couple behind struggled long till woman quit and returned back. Clear despite partner help, no arm strength. Her right decision.
After vertical, bit easier on smooth slabs mainly friction. Then second harder: climb vertical over slight overhang where cable turns right, hardest ends. Easier to top, rewarded with nice view on snowy Austrian hills background. Short break, descend same way - good to train descent. Ended quick so in nearby crag climbed two routes 4c and 5a on top rope, since except two, others have no major climbing experience.
Still quite strong, end drove to Vinska gora, climbed Gonžarjeva peč and fitness training done for today.
This ferrata really nice training ground for various skills and gaining experience for harder secured and also less secured paths in high mountains.
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| robter10. 04. 2012 10:28:42 |
I was in this route last week. At that part you marked on the picture as the hardest, ca. 5m below the top before the last vertical, my daughter and I had to turn back because she's too small to safely reach the peg.
regards
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| aonuk122. 04. 2012 09:05:19 |
So on Saturday at what time?
Regards Vinko
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| geppo24. 04. 2012 12:31:13 |
I sent it to you on PM
regards
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| LidijaJesih24. 04. 2012 19:48:41 |
10 pics are upside down!! You must have been lying down!
It reminded me of our guide's anecdote on Ortler. He said he never showed his alpine pics to mom because she was scared for him. But one where he was climbing vertical wall he was so proud he showed it anyway. Mom turned it left and right, then asked: well, why are you lying on the ground here? 
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| geppo24. 04. 2012 19:56:37 |
Lidija, it doesn't look that bad as shown in the photo. But that part and then the overhang is a bit tricky for many on first encounter with this ferrata.
Regards
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| Kita25. 04. 2012 00:57:38 |
Geppo, those are tough pics, the thing looks pretty demanding, good that there are pegs here and there to rest arms a bit... Gotta try it...
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| geppo25. 04. 2012 05:20:46 |
I take anyone who starts getting interested in ferratas to this one. So this morning before the course I took a married couple. Due to rain and wet rock I first thought only to the first vertical, they were enthusiastic and we then climbed the whole wall.
Photo of transition from harder to easier wall part.
Regards
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| Kita25. 04. 2012 16:22:35 |
Real deal for this, you gotta be in good shape, but to go up without using pegs you must be real ferratist with lots of mileage? Bravo...
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| neph25. 04. 2012 17:31:39 |
Without using the pegs the difficulty increases a bit, especially downhill. 
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| geppo25. 04. 2012 17:46:40 |
I tried going down once. To be honest, I used that single piton in the wall and grabbed one peg. Probably, it would go without it too, if it weren't in the wall...
Regards
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| Kita25. 04. 2012 18:03:55 |
Well done... What about experiences on other ferratas, have you climbed anything harder yet?
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| geppo25. 04. 2012 20:37:32 |
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| IgorZlodej25. 04. 2012 22:17:19 |
I suggest Torre Clampil, 50 towers, Torrione Comici for ferrata Cassiopea, Säuleck etc. These are the real things.
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| Hribovc8826. 04. 2012 08:55:23 |
I've also climbed Torre Ciampil already
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