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Vaganski vrh / Sveto brdo

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Guest9. 06. 2008 12:28:17
The shortest approach to the highest Velebit peaks:
Starting point: RADUČ

From Raduč to the gentle meadows of Bunovac /Kraški Ponor there are 11 km of macadam passable even for passenger cars /a problem could only arise if there is mud and large forestry works.
At 8 km there is a junction where you go left.
Always follow the oldest forest road.
Here on the clearing we leave the car..
From Bunovac there is renewed marking and a demined trail 10 m wide through Cesarova valley/before the war shepherd's path.
Along the trail on both sides, a few meters away, visible deminer marks/so no wandering. Good marking, visible trail. Problem only in the lower part as it is locally a bit harder to follow the trail due to fallen beeches. After 1:30 hours of ascent walking you exit onto the ridge on the longitudinal Velebit trail next to the small Malovan lake and then RIGHT another about 1:30 to the highest peak of Velebit..
LEFT about 3 hours to Holy Mountain. Traditional ascent from Bunovac through juniper belt and exit to junction /Čićina valley is still questionable and not recommended.
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iva10. 06. 2008 12:40:49
Coordinates:

Vaganski vrh , 1757 m,
N44 22 04.0 E15 30 16.5

Sveto brdo , 1751 m,
N44 19 43.0 E15 34 11.0

Vlaški Grad , 1383 m,
N44 19 29.9 E15 33 02.2
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iva17. 06. 2008 10:19:49
Holy Mountain via Ivinih vodica 6 h.

Behind the hut immediately uphill s. 10' to hamlet Ramići - Parići. In a semi-circle above the village there are two ancient abandoned residential buildings, interesting for their shape and location. From Parići d. steeper and steeper, above the Paklenica streambed, across saddle terrain into the forest. After 30' across the stream and on the other side very steep for another about 1 h to Martinovo mirilo (914 m), pass between V. and M. Paklenica. Mirilo is a place where during the funeral procession in memory of the deceased two vertical stones are planted in the ground, one above the head, the other above the feet. Here our path meets the trail coming from the right from Seline and V. Močila. By it l. uphill forested ridge another 45' to mountain shelter on small clearing at Ivinih vodica.
MOUNTAIN SHELTER AT IVINIH VODICA (about 1250 m) is a ground-floor masonry building with one room, always open. Its location by water, forest and open high plain serves as a very necessary rest spot for ascent to the highest Velebit peaks, as ascent and return in one day is too much effort. Shelter equipped with 12 bunks and cooking gear. Bring sleeping bag. Water from spring near house (dries up in late summer). Renovated and roofed in 1983 and last year more thoroughly arranged.
Path continues along l. edge of forest steeply uphill, in numerous switchbacks, through scree another almost 1 h. At forest exit nice view from small saddle to Holy Mountain. Here junction where not to go r. better path, but further uphill to Čičina valley where our transverse path crosses longitudinal high path. By it r. another about 1:30-2 h to top of Holy Mountain.
Ascent from Paklenica, though overcoming 1000 m height, ranks among easiest ascents to Velebit from coastal side. Mostly through forest shade and past sufficient drinking water sources.



Seline - Small Paklenica - Holy Mountain about 10 h

At church in Seline turn from Adriatic highway to s. towards Velebit on footpath across karst plain 30' (2.5 km) to entrance of M. Paklenica. Through M. Paklenica canyon no trodden path, but among huge blocks of detached stones follow markings of Paklenica mountain path. Rocks here not such dimensions as in V. Paklenica, but progress much harder due to impassability and wilderness. Duration impossible to determine exactly, depends on traveler's resourcefulness. In upper part of canyon, at height about 470 m, valley forks: Small Paklenica continues l., r. separates Orljače torrent, through which also possible to Holy Mountain via Libinje, but hard to find way without guide due to rocky jump called Vir. About 1 km s. of fork rises from M. Paklenica l. uphill trail 30' steep ascent to Lekina njiva, from there r. branch 30' to Veliko Močilo well-trodden path along slope of bare Borovnik.
Path then steeply climbs r. to Klanac od Jablanuše and descends other side to Martinovo mirilo. Further to Holy Mountain as from hut in Paklenica. This approach to Holy Mountain undoubtedly hardest and hard to do in one day.

Modrići - Malo Libinje, Kneževići - Vlaški grad - Holy Mountain, 1753 m

Difficulty: hard Time: 7 h Height difference: 1375 m
Length: 14 km
Attractions on trail: Orljača breakthrough, village cluster, karst of Malo Libinje, karst flora, layered rock position - Komić, panoramic views, high meadows.
Access to start:

Approach: From Zagreb-Split highway at Maslenica. Head towards Starigrad - Paklenica. Pass Rovanjsku and at first big bend before Modrići (in deep valley) junction where turn right narrow asphalt road that winds above Modrići (follow Sv. Ivan sign). Follow asphalt that steeply winds above Modrići where asphalt ends and macadam begins. Drive straight until plateau where 1st junction go left. Hundred meters further 2nd junction turn left again. That is new macadam road to Libinje. Drive straight on it and at elevation ca. 900 m above sea junction. Left to Malo Libinje / right to Veliko Libinje


From hamlet Modrići follow trail to Malo Libinje (1 h 45') to houses Kneževići (water), from there 30' to plateau of Malo Libinje, to area Polje (karst meadows). Ascent slopes of Debelo brdo (stony meadows) to Veliki Štirovac from where to pass below Vlaški grad (2 h 30'). To top Vlaški grad (1375 m) 25' ascent. Ascent slopes of Sijaset to pass above Dolci bay (1 h), from there meadows to Holy Mountain, to memorial cross. Possible descent to Velika Paklenica (to Hut in Paklenica) via Čičina valley and Ivinih vodica (mountain shelter) about 4 h
Markings worse and in fog orientation difficult.
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iva17. 06. 2008 11:11:21
VAGANSKI PEAK / HIGHEST PEAK OF VELEBIT
Accessible:
1. Classic approach from Hut in Paklenica via Ivinih vodica - Čićina valley along VPP / VELEBIT MOUNTAIN TRAIL.
2. Via Buljme - Struga and Marasovac / PERMANENT SOURCE OF GOOD WATER again to VPP trail.
and two attractive trails:
BUKOVA TRAIL via Babin dolac along Babino lake again to VPP trail and for me best and hardest dizzying LIPA TRAIL / only for experienced hikers. Markings are good especially VPP trail.
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geppo13. 05. 2022 06:22:04
Vaganski peak 10.5.2022
From Povljana early morning we drive to Paklenica. A few minutes before seven we start hiking. Morning is fresh, wet (daily afternoon thunderstorms on Velebit). In about 2 hours and 45 minutes we are at Paklenica Mountain Hut. 15 min break before continuing. Steepness now begins. When a bit higher junctions with signposts appear, we are a bit in a dilemma. We decide to ascend Bukova trail and descend Lipa trail. When we reach the big rock (inscriptions on the rock) with split Bukova left, Lipa right, we take time for a snack.
After short snack we turn to Bukova, which soon almost completely disappears in the forest. We do not experiment and return to the rock and continue on Lipa trail. The path is steep all the way. To the scree it is in the shade of trees. The scree is strenuous and in the scorching sun tough. I can hardly wait for the grassy ridge that I see above me. On the ridge it is pleasantly windy and scenic. Soon we encounter remnants of snow that refresh us. After 6 hours of hiking we step on the indistinct summit with a cross.
We have no long rest because dark clouds threaten us. Soon the first raindrops fall.
From the summit we descend for a while and then continue along the ridge forward. It continues with thunder and small hail pounding our heated bodies. When the path branches left, we take that variant (otherwise it continues further along the ridge). We suspect that we are now on Bukova, which is confirmed later. In the storm we hurry down from the ridge.
The path in the upper part is easy. But when we reach the forest edge it descends very steeply downward. The storm calms, stuffiness strikes. The path is increasingly demanding and requires caution. The rock is full of scree, cracks, razor-sharp ridges.
I would rather go up here and down Lipa, but now as it is. When we reach the junctions and direction signs we realize where we should have gone left to reach Bukova trail (703). Back at the hut I am already quite tired. We treat ourselves to refreshments and chat with the friendly girl who serves. Soon it thunders higher up again.
When we look at each other, she laughs: "žurite ili ne žurite, u svakom slučaju bičete mokri". That is how it was. Thunder, hail, rain, to the starting point, where we are after 11 hours and 40 min of hiking.
Ascent for those in good condition. The path is technically not demanding but not easy. For me it was quite strenuous and I was surprisingly tired at the end. Partly a consequence of having done about 17 "hot" kilometers the previous day. I recommend up Bukova and down Lipa.
lp
Fresh morning in the shade of tree crowns1
Mountaineers' hut. Up to here the path doesn't rise too steeply. From here it starts.2
Here we should go left to 7033
At this rock we get confused and then go right along Lipoj4
Interesting marking :))5
The forest thins out.6
Scree7
Scree8
View from the ridge9
On the ridge10
View along the ridge. At the end Sveto brdo11
Summit is already visible12
Vaganski vrh13
14
15
Descent along the ridge.16
Hail17
We hurry in the rain18
Steep descent begins19
20
21
22
23
It's still far24
Natural window in the rock25
Relaxation after strenuous hiking26
27
Stanko's masterful photograph28
Just as she said: you will get wet29
route covered30
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zokipoki13. 05. 2022 11:06:07
Really nice tour through beautiful landscape!
Stanko really caught the lizard well!nasmeh
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ejti13. 05. 2022 17:05:05
Nicer descent is past Marasovac fountain and Struge bivouac to Buljma pass and back to canyon. Path longer but knee-friendlier and also nicer.
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geppo13. 05. 2022 17:37:10
We were looking for shortest. Time-limited and weather forecast quite uncertain.
Thanks
will study and check that descent - on map?
lp
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ejti13. 05. 2022 20:52:42
Of course, it's marked path. For Lipa and Bukova trail you turned right a bit after Ramića dvorov. If continued straight, direction Stražbenica, higher up branch for Buljmo and Struge. But true, this path much longer.
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geppo13. 05. 2022 22:35:47
So, if during descent along ridge not turned left to Bukova, would go that one? That's how I imagine now. But that one much longer.
Thanks
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ejti13. 05. 2022 23:24:03
Yes, exactly.
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garmont14. 05. 2022 09:27:45
Zlatko, in Marasovac there is always water... even in the greatest heat.nasmeh
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geppo14. 05. 2022 10:00:38
Interesting!
We had pretty good conditions. Morning freshness after the night thunderstorm, higher up then refreshing wind. So no excessive heat/thirst during ascent, on the way back hail hit us twice.
We studied it later when looking at GPS tracks.
That Bukova path with the arrow on the rock seems abandoned, if we had followed it we would have joined the "right" one. Thanks Dolf and ejti for information
best regards
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bumslpepe15. 05. 2022 10:26:11
Quite a few GPS tracks for Velebit are at:
https://info.hps.hr/putovi/putovi

Best
Igor
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geppo15. 05. 2022 12:36:09
Thanks!
best regards
Now I'm just curious "ejti", where did you meet the bear with cubs?velik nasmehvelik nasmeh Now I know Velebit better!
best regards
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ejti15. 05. 2022 15:07:08
Uh, that was on North Velebit, on the path to Krajačev kuk from Vel. Lubenovac.
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karibu23. 05. 2022 22:47:53
We treated ourselves to a weekend package on Velebit.
On Friday first to Anića kuk and then up-down-up to the shelter at Vlaški grad. At the shelter we met a group of young Croats with whom we shared our beer, they their dry meat products (prosciutto and kulen). Of course we couldn't miss watching the sunset from nearby Vlaški grad (10 min). There's a spring at the shelter, but currently not very plentiful. 5 min below the shelter (marked) there's another spring that's noticeably more abundant.
After overnight in the new shelter solid breakfast, then to Holy Mountain and later Vaganski peak. Overnight at Struge shelter, where we meet our new friends again and some foreigners. Shelter was full, 2 foreigners slept outside in a tent.
After morning formalities descent to the valley via Buljma, stop at the mountain hut for ice-cold Karlovačko, refreshing swim in Paklenica and then home.
Velebit always impresses me with its wilderness and this time was no different. Only surprised by the large crowd and congestion in both shelters velik nasmeh
Weather served well, mid-May we spent 3 wonderful, very hot days under Velebit sun.
Best wishes and good luck!
morning in Paklenica (it's not very pleasant in the shade)1
we'll have to go up there!2
Aniča kuk3
view into Paklenica4
Aniča kuk5
new signs at the junctions, we usually added at least 30 min to the indicated times :)6
Along the path7
viewpoint along the trail8
junction with old signs9
break along the trail, the backpacks are heavy10
Ivine Vodice11
sunset at Vlaški grad12
spring near the bivouac, need to wait a little for it to fill13
Velebit beetle14
Vlaški grad15
Vlaški grad16
Vlaški grad17
Slovenian-Croatian duo18
ascent to Sveto brdo19
Sveto brdo20
Sveto brdo21
long traverse towards Vaganski vrh22
Along the path23
junction (signposts are hard to reach)24
Vaganski vrh, highest peak of Velebit25
Along the path26
camaraderie at bivouac27
by the fire28
team at Struge bivouac29
descent into Paklenica30
view along the path31
New direction signs32
refreshment in Paklenica33
last snapshot before the end of an excellent tour34
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geppo24. 05. 2022 06:45:38
Congratulations
How long did it take from Holy Mountain to Vaganski?
Was the girl on duty at the hut the one from my photo above 27?
best regards
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bos24. 05. 2022 07:46:29
Nice enjoyment on Velebit, which always invites again.nasmeh
Holy Mountain - Vaganski peak about 3-4h or no hurry, because it's so nice up there.mežikanje
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karibu24. 05. 2022 14:37:14
Geppo about the girl who served at the mountain hut, I can say she's Czech living in Croatia and speaks good Croatian. And she has a whole bunch of tattoos...didn't want to reveal what they mean cool
Holy Mountain - Vaganski peak I'd say same as bos, we took longer because we went slowly and took several breaks. And true, it's nice up there, we lay in the grass several times admiring the sea view velik nasmeh
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geppo24. 05. 2022 15:00:35
Ha ha next time she'll tell when we pass by. She treated us to slivovitz (house treats). Then several rounds of beer were drunk before we staggered to the parking in Paklenica.velik nasmeh
We got quite warmed up for Holy Mountain and Zir, if "God wills"cool we'll do that sometime too.
Seems very far between Vaganski and Holy M. that's why I'm curious.
Thanks to both for the reply.
best regards
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