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Hochalmspitze 3360 m

triglavski15. 08. 2009 19:44:36

Last year a sudden thunderstorm chased us off it; today Marjan and I are going alone. We drive to Malta, then to Gössgraben; the parking lot below the dam is quite full, fog above us. With quick steps we stride along the supply road and higher on marked shortcuts to Giessener Hütte. Already below the hut a flawless blue sky opens for us. A short break follows, then onwards on the right path to Tripkees glacier; this year snowfields extend deep below the glacier but are passable, so we gear up with crampons and ice axes much higher, around 2900 meters. Then ascent over the glacier on the already trodden track; snow and ice reach quite high, to rocks and first fixed rope we need to overcome around 5 meters of firm snowfield, below it a deep crevasse of course. Quickly over the rocky section, a wide view opens to the vast Hochalmkees glacier reaching right to the rocks. For a while we walk on the trodden track just under the rocks, then turn to the SE ridge and along it to the forepeak Snežni vrh (Schneeige Spitze). To here some easier climbing, some part secured with fixed rope. Then short somewhat exposed ridge passage to main peak Kopna špica (Apere Spitze) and we stand on the queen of Hohe Tauern. View to northern Hohe Tauern with Ankogel in foreground superb, somewhat distant Großglockner visible, southern mountains in haze. We take about an hour on top, unusually empty for holiday, only 8 up there, quite a few ascending from various routes. Then descent on secured path over Detmolder Grat; midway put crampons back on for glacier part and use ice axe, then dry to Lasssacher Winklscharte notch and back to hut, valley and home. Nice, nice, as two years ago.

Hochalmspitze 3360 m when we step above the fog, the blue sky opens up

Hochalmspitze 3360 m to the glacier and the summit is still far

Hochalmspitze 3360 m this little lake is not polluted at all, but the water is quite cold

Hochalmspitze 3360 m Tripkess glacier is now more of a snowfield

Hochalmspitze 3360 m below the rocky section

Hochalmspitze 3360 m to the rocks one has to climb a short steep snowfield

Hochalmspitze 3360 m at the notch, behind the famous Steinerne Männln towers

Hochalmspitze 3360 m part of glacier Hochalmkees

Hochalmspitze 3360 m descent along Detmolder Grat

Hochalmspitze 3360 m back on solid ground

Hochalmspitze 3360 m at Lassacher Winkscharte incidentally as future Alpenverein member fix fallen direction sign

Hochalmspitze 3360 m then across vast expanses to...

Hochalmspitze 3360 m ...friendly hut Giessener Hütte and....

Hochalmspitze 3360 m glass of refreshing liquid...

Hochalmspitze 3360 m down to artificial lake and home.

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keber115. 08. 2009 22:55:23

Great trip. I myself wish one day to stand on the top of that mountain (which is excellently visible from our Julijci), but the path is very demanding. What can it be compared to from our mountains in terms of difficulty? Austrian three-thousanders are not complete strangers to me (I've been on two), hope this year I visit some Ankogel or something else in the area.

triglavski16. 08. 2009 19:57:56

Yes, it was really nice. Comparison is almost impossible because they are different altitudes, a glacier-rock tour requiring certain gear and of course experience; dimensions are different there, otherwise whoever hikes in high mountains in winter here shouldn't have any special problems. Rope belay is of course highly recommended, which again depends on glacier conditions. But this is just one route to the top; there are others that I don't know yet.

bridnk16. 08. 2009 20:32:57

nice pics

gotta go once

čemšeničan19. 08. 2009 11:30:37

Once you go to that mountain it stays consciously in your memory. I was there on 25.8.2007 with a buddy; nice weather, not many visitors. There were also two from Styria; we met when we were descending from the summit. Hey Triglavski, nice pics; when I look at them it pulls me back up. Beer suited me too then, though I drove home that same day. Last year I saw that mountain from Mojstrovka; on Saturday I'm going on a bus trip through Austria, hope for nice weather despite bad forecast. Nice greetings and luck.

GITA7. 04. 2011 19:45:25

Total failure all the way mrk pogled

... We knew Hohe Tauern were more stepmotherly endowed with snow this year, that we had to carry skis for about 1 hour at the start too, but what is that compared to the whole tour, we thought, and three of us drove yesterday early afternoon to Malta valley to the start for Villacher Hütte (2194 m). After a good hour of walking on dry ground we finally reached the "federal" snow cover and put on skis. Initially it went nicely on the gentle forest road, we advanced quickly, then suddenly the joy ended... abnormal sinking and sinking and deeper sinking began... jezen

. When we were still about an hour from the hut it became almost unbearable... when our buddy started sinking too (the one we tease weighs 50 kg with the bed mežikanje

), only stubbornness and the approaching night drove us on. To our joy the hut was warm, as two Italians and two Austrians inside had already lit the stove... thanks nasmeh

. Soon we went to rest; the decision on what and how next we left for this morning... which was quite miserable... cloudy, strong wind howled around the hut corners all night as before, yet it was quite warm and it felt like the hut stood in the middle of a swamp zavijanje z očmi

... With heavy hearts we unanimously decided not to go to the summit. About an hour later, watching our "mates" from in front of the hut who decided to continue, how they struggled and dug themselves out of the snow because it sank so much for them, we knew we had decided right. Even more than the question of tiring ascent, it was about the quality and especially safety of skiing (if you sink with the front part of the skis instead of the tails, injury can happen quickly)... and we knew it would only get worse hour by hour... We skied down to the valley "like on eggshells"; every slightly greater load meant sinking and digging out of snow, falls were inevitable, so where possible we took long traverses with as little zigzagging as possible... In the end we congratulated each other on the "lucky" return. Midway we got "drunk", but still had to admit that the turnaround decision was right...

We can already see the hut...it's still far up there....

čemšeničan10. 04. 2011 20:15:05

Gita, triglavski once wrote on forum that success is knowing when and where to turn around, next time more luck.
Nice greeting and good luck!

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GITA10. 04. 2011 21:39:02

Thanks, čemšeničan... the queen will wait... mežikanje

matjaz8411. 09. 2011 20:31:47

Yesterday on top of "Queen of Hohe Tauern". Ascent from Giessener Hütte via Steinerne Mandln and east ridge to summit, descent via Detmolder Grat back to hut and dam. Glacier below wall (seasonally) quite low from entry gully in wall and very icy, no way without full glacier gear. Plus falling rocks threatening all time. Descent Detmolder Grat no child's play esp glacier crossing roped. Most surprised that hike marked max ten hours ascent descent took full thirteen. Otherwise great weather, few people all experienced, shown best on descent needing patience as only one climber per 20m rope. My highest toughest noblest ascent so far.

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IgorZlodej22. 11. 2011 19:46:43

Bivouac overnight super comfy, all 10 beds mine, wood stove too hot, water flows over bivouac. Morning 6am start. Sky full stars. Path nice, first long part slabby rocks. At junction left to Schwarzenburger Weg on purpose, from there sunrise and summit via Detmolder Grat. Yes arriving flat after Winkelscharte sun peeks. Everyday phenomenon always majestic esp high mountains. Stand motionless admire new day birth, then to col short break crampons on. Continue easy at first then serious, snow traverse just above glacier showing majestic crevasses. Hit rope higher fixed rope. Ascent needs power, some pull hard over dry rock, snowed much easier but rope under snow so ice axe works. Recommend self-belay. Soon summit. Nice feeling third ascent queen Hohe Tauern hard describe. Warm sun calm wide views one sits looks. But down, east see tracks snow ease descent though no help. Initially nice, below fixed rope exposed snow traverse, then easier to Steinerne Mandln passage. There off crampons rock dry. Down fixed rope to glacier crampons on, steep snowfield below crampons off descent bivouac. While snow fast nice, trail slower. Pack bivouac take gear valley deep far.

until it finally overcomes the night and day breaks

I continue towards the summit, below glacier with crevices

The first part of the traverse is too much for me

follows the snowy-rocky section of the ascent

the mountain expanses are best seen from the summit

and still the shadow of those two on the northern glacier

at the transition from rock to snow-glacier, still an abyss

towards the valley, which is still far away

(+17)

CarpeDiem24723. 11. 2011 12:47:37

Super pics, pity that tower probably won't stay like that long. cool

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voluhar10. 09. 2012 15:09:54

http://tomazsarc.blogspot.com/2012/09/hochalmspitze-892012.html

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viharnik10. 09. 2012 15:40:13

Great ascent Tomaž and company. This will be a tough ascent for those lads from local PD Rašica. mežikanje

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Bojan_A15. 09. 2013 09:07:48

Yesterday from Goßgrabna towards Hochalmspitze. Due to lots of new snow or avalanche danger turned back at the start of Trippkees glacier.

Still a very picturesque tour: http://bojanambrozic.wordpress.com/2013/09/15/hochalmspitze/

On the way back we met two Slovenians who only planned to walk to the glacier. Further on it's currently too dangerous.

(+4)

IgorZlodej6. 05. 2014 20:19:31

In excellent snow conditions past Beljaška hut to the summit and skiing back.

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Bojan_A7. 05. 2014 22:29:01

Great tour! How long would it take to go on foot? Isn't it at all dangerous now to walk over the glacier when snow is covering and you don't know where the crevasses are?

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viharnik8. 05. 2014 06:20:48

Start is in Malta at the bridge at 1200m, then calculate according to time.

IgorZlodej24. 09. 2014 21:17:24

Again excellent conditions on the queen of Visoke Ture.

Towards the summit, of course still untrodden.

(+8)

redbull13. 10. 2014 20:47:52

Saturday's queen of high tours welcomed us warmly. At our place it certainly wasn't as nice weather-wise as in this part of the Alps.

Tripkees glacier has huge amount of snow which was in excellent condition to cross. On the ridge to the summit snow was only on the flat part, compared to Igor's ascent two weeks ago when it was necessary to have crampons. With us they stayed in the backpack.
Essential to say that winter season has started and all who head up will walk from 1150m.

Report:

http://deyangrm.blogspot.com/2014/10/kraljica-visokih-tur-in.html

Winterleitnkopf - in the background the conquered queen

(+3)

čeček727. 06. 2015 14:23:29

On Thursday afternoon my mate and I head to Austria more precisely Hochalmspitze. We park below the artificial lake and cycle up to Giessener Hütte. The hut was supposed to open officially on 1 Jul but it's already open nasmeh

We get up at 3am and start walking at 3:30. We did a nice loop - up past the famous Steinerne Männln towers to the summit and descent via Detmolder Grat to the hut where we drink well-deserved beer nasmeh

nice descent to the car awaited us!
You can watch the video at the link below_
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJfmbML41_c