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Brana from Bosova grapa via Kaptan

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Peter.B.11. 06. 2018 19:23:43
On Sunday, 10.06., a group of somewhat older hikers from Prekmurje carried out a real small feat. After 10 years, we are 10 years older, we climbed Bosova grapa and ascended to Brana via Kaptan. The path is very difficult, beautiful, but it must be emphasized that it is suitable only for the brave and experienced.
Pictures are available at
http://www.pdmaticams-drustvo.si/
(+7)like
alyas2. 08. 2022 15:06:30
Brana via Kaptana

We start at Jermanci, accessible by gravel road from Kam. Bistrica - currently in pretty good condition. At the first larger sandy meadow below Pastirci, we look for access and entrance to Bosova gully.
Its first rock step is quite demanding and especially in the morning, if wet and damp, dangerous for slipping. Further on, Bosova gully offers enjoyable climbing over a series of short steps up to II difficulty and causes no orientation issues, except own choice - between left and right climbing direction upwards, from the right side usually helped by some dwarf pine branches.

At the exit from the gully, before reaching the edge of the Kaptana ridge, first follows a right traverse across a belt of dense dwarf pines and conifers, where the path is less traceable, but occasionally sawn branches show the right direction, although not as evidently sawn as e.g. on the path over Može.

Once on the rock ridge, follows occasionally harder climbing on exposed slabs bordering on II-III (average I-II), while searching for easier passages we can still use help of some bushy sections here and there. The ridge slab is not extremely narrow and ascends stepwise and turns slightly from straight direction a few times. At two key points of the ridge, soon after start and once more in the second half, when it seems straight too hard, we can choose easier right bypass variants, which also require caution mainly due to exposure and steep drop below us. The last climbing part below the characteristic small cylindrical spire pillar is also somewhat harder, here we climb up the rock gully to the left and continue more gently through scree and bushes towards the summit of Kaptana. To the indistinct summit of Kaptana then - as someone already said: with hands in pockets escorts a narrow track. Kaptana summit has only a large cairn and no other markers or logbook box.

Direct descent from Kaptana to the col below it – to the top of Bosova gully is short but relatively demanding, yet not too hard, as a natural crack in the wall with good holds and footholds helps us, a bit similar (but easier and shorter) to that from Staničev vrh descent to Zeleniške špice.
Further follows a short ascent upwards through fairly crumbly terrain, heading more or less straight up the middle and through bowl-shaped cirque and steep grass to the lower green edge of the vast plateau of Brana. Here is ideal spot for snack and rest and enjoying peace and views. It takes good three hours to here, to the cross – summit on Brana, then another less than half hour of enjoyable walk.
view from parking above pl. Jermanca to the ridge towards Kaptan1
below the entry into Bosova grapa2
path is partly visible, ... old cable from cableway on ground shows right direction3
already over first entry threshold need to exert oneself4
such sections continue in the gully further on5
at some places bushes also help6
... some smoother sections7
... and some more scree sections8
at the saddle which is followed by a strip of bushes to the ridge9
through thicket where ticks can be found in summer10
finally to rocky part and ridge11
terrain soon stands more upright12
the first possible tower on the ridge, which is a bit too smooth and too vertical ...13
... and we preferably bypass it14
back on the main traverse15
... in between gentians, as many as you want16
even on the ridge there is some scrub for help, sawn-off branches show the right direction17
view down to the parking and into the Kam.Bistrica valley18
the ridge is narrower in places, comfortably wide in others19
second unpleasant bypass from the main ridge, the direct route is harder20
view of the continuation in the second half of the route21
last harder climbing section below Kaptan - below the small ku.....22
view back on this section23
below Kaptan the terrain then turns green and flattens24
summit of Kaptan25
view of the continuation to Brana across crumbly scree right down the middle26
the direct descent from Kaptan is relatively difficult27
on the descent a natural crack in the wall helps us28
view back to Kaptan and the saddle below it29
and view ahead ... to the continuation30
when we reach the lower slabs of Brana31
the walk to the top of Brana rather drags on32
also here the path is adorned by gentians33
no, it's not quite flat either34
Brana and its famous cross on the top35
descent to Kamniško sedlo via normal route, on the north side36
the road from Kam.Bistrica to Jermanca is currently in very good condition37
(+13)like
j.3. 08. 2022 23:33:37
Nice one, Alyas!
(+3)like
suhy11. 08. 2022 02:28:12
The Bosova gully is talked about so much and enthusiastically that even a complete alpinistic illiterate finally got convinced to bite into it once. Courage alone of course is not enough for brilliant climbing achievements, you also need some basic knowledge of the three points for safe movement upwards on indispensable support points, if the climber doesn't want a hard landing at the bottom of the abyss, plus stout mental resilience and heaped measure of physical strength, skill and toughness. And of course helmet, that must not be missing from climbing gear, because an honest soul never knows when some useless boulder might roll down from above. The man reads all the writings generously provided by many experts of these areas under Brana and available in the internet, from aerial photos he draws the route he will take up the gully and threads it into a handy satellite compass, so cosmic mechanics orbiting high in the sky around mother Earth will surely find him, if he strays somewhere unknown and save the mountain rescuers a lot of topographical trouble to track down the misguided unfortunate.

Having done all that the man from Jermanci, where the road for dual-track vehicles is nicely leveled, in light trot early morning heads towards Pastirci and a few minutes before them tightens the strap, drifts left and puffs up the scree to the first jump in Bosova gully. Climbing in the gully is really easy, as if watching champion Janja G. on an artificial wall. The altitude meter without pause records stunning results. Somewhere in the middle of the ravine the man bumps into - freely after dementia - Andrej, Marjeta and Andraž, who have the same inclinations, to conquer Kaptana and Brana. Only they have measured the ravine multiple times, the man despite his unenviable EMS is a pioneer in it. They continue together, because unity is strength. That of course means all orientation puzzles that tormented the man the day before while sifting through various descriptions by many authors, where, when, where, how much, why, how, why, with what, ..., when facing the cliffs of Kaptana, have evaporated irretrievably.

Proud that he has asked the gully and conquered Kaptana, the man parts from the friendly trio, trots to Brana and at Kamniško sedlo in pleasant sunshine in front of the hut ties his soul with hop juice. When osmosis has ensured that the spirits from the beer permeates the bloodstream, suddenly on the left opposite Brana appears a colossal rock mass towering high into the sky. OMG, WTF is that now? Quickly rummages in his terabyte memory and discovers 128-bit cuneiform that it can't be anything else but ancient Planjava. The freshly infused spirits just permeated into the blood, which slightly fogs the mind, adds to the lower trunk extremities despite global energy crisis some modest GWh energy and the torso of the newbie alpinist already in the next moment launches with incredible speed along the marked path into the rock spire. And not much time passes when he triumphantly stands on the summit. Yes, he says proudly peering into endless distances, Kamnik Alps are really a wonderful piece of native soil, treasure trove of natural wonders, heavenly views, example of pristine untouched fauna and flora. Is it the same in Repov kot, the man poses a philosophical question. While struggling and staggering under Srebrno sedlo on sparse scree on steep rocks, he contentedly concludes that Repov kot is also a jewel of KSA. And may it remain so forever and ever.mežikanje

https://www.gpsvisualizer.com/display/20220810174039-28228-map.html
morning with Jermanca1
Brana ridge2
on Kaptana ridge3
view from Kaptana4
Kalški greben5
saddle between Kaptana and Brana6
Skuta, Rinke7
Towards the summit of Brana8
9
eye socket10
on Brana11
Mrzla g.12
13
Turska g.14
KS and Planjava15
16
invigorating dose17
Dam18
Kaptan19
Planjava20
21
Towards Ojstrica22
23
Korošica24
Repov kot25
Pool in Repov kot26
End of the tour - Planjava with Jermance27
28
(+15)like
redbull11. 08. 2022 03:47:28
Interesting reportmežikanje
Great tour, good luck
(+1)like
Trobec11. 08. 2022 16:34:20
This report really made me laugh velik nasmeh
The tour is super, I think Kaptana has gained popularity lately.
(+2)like
palček plezalček11. 08. 2022 18:17:43
Suhy, nice tour and interesting description, to which archaisms and, let's call them, ultra-modernist abbreviations give an aesthetically intriguing touch. nasmeh
(+4)like
suhy11. 08. 2022 21:15:56
The trip was really nice, towards the end also strenuous, since in Repov kot, which I've traversed uphill countless times, it got a bit tricky finding the most comfortable variant over the jump, where the cairns misled me, which perhaps indicate the best option for ascent, but not for descent. And if the written nonsense in these enigmatic times of fires, inflation, drought, energy crisis, wars, disputes with western neighbors about the use of balsamic vinegar name etc. made someone smile a bit more, that's not wrong either. At least I hope not. To the others, used to serious, dry and scientifically objective descriptions of conditions, I sincerely apologize. Maybe the impression deceives, but Bosova grapa, as well as other tours regarding safety, shouldn't be taken lightly. nasmeh
(+9)like
mukica12. 08. 2022 05:44:54
Bravoooo Suhy, reading your report with a smilenasmeh
The trip is nice and worth repeatingmežikanje
(+1)like
redbull11. 03. 2023 21:58:59
Brana via Kaptan (11.03.23)

After work I drive straight to Jermanca, because time was already chasing me a bit, so surprisingly I don't start from KB. Snow starts just a few meters lower, when I turned left towards the gully. The three jumps are there and dry, otherwise the snow is soft enough that no crampons were needed. On the ridge it's always great. Before descending from Kaptanska glava, crampons obligatory. No wind, a mix of sun with some fog. At the top a real work of art of nature. Descent via winter classic. Good base, good conditions, but beware it's real winter that doesn't forgive mistakes. Hut open from Friday to Sunday.
1
doesn't look bad2
3
4
the jumps are dry5
6
7
Kalška kuka8
9
Kaptanska glava10
11
12
13
14
nice artwork15
16
17
winter classic18
19
20
21
22
23
(+12)like
UROS112. 03. 2023 11:24:13
Great and Bravo! Very nice. Keep it up and thanks also for the info on current conditions on Brana.
(+4)like
lijaneja30. 10. 2024 10:32:49
Yesterday it happened to me too, as Drago and I did this wonderful path. Hats off to Dejan of course for managing it after work, and in winter conditions too. Well, time definitely wasn't chasing us. At Jermanci our car had no company, we first got company only at the top of Brana. Weather almost kitschy, temperature just right, no wind. In Bosova grapa holds dry and solid, if those ran out, scree helped. Drago follows the apparent path well, orientation perfect, although I noticed only two or three cairns. Good II becomes apparent maybe only on two jumps, but in ideal weather you don't even notice it. At least at three points we lingered longer and enjoyed the views. Classic descent to the hut, which is closed, I extend towards Planjava to the scree and with descent on gravel feel the gratitude of the left knee.
Štruca and Skuta shine in the morning sun.1
Before entering Bosovo grapo2
Mokrica and Kompotela3
The hut on Kamniškem sedlu is already in the sun.4
Under the crumbling summit (from the left) we reach the col where we veer right onto the ridge.5
The scree and good steps provide great assistance in the ascent.6
Already in vaser vago with Kamniškim sedlom.7
View towards Brana from Kaptana8
Grinta and Kogel9
Kalški greben and K. gora (with Cojzovo kočo)10
Mokrica, Kompotela, Vrh Korena and greben Ježa.11
Kordeževa glava and Babe12
Rdeči kup in Planjavi13
Jermanca parking lot right in the middle14
Altitude check15
Grinta with a section of Dolgih sten.16
Where does this path lead?17
Towards the southeast18
From Mokrica to Grinta.19
View back at Kaptana.20
From Grinte to Štajerska Rinka.21
Already on soft dry grasses...22
...which offer a soft approach...23
...to the summit of Brana.24
The summit of Kaptana is at the entrance to Mokrice.25
Planjava with Rdeči kup and Sukavnik.26
The two highest already in the company of mists.27
High-alpine sinkholes in the area named 'Blek'.28
On the other side, a steeply precipitous world.29
The last slope to the summit of Brana.30
Grassy oasis Pri pastirjih, upper left Kamrca.31
Poker Rink, in front Turska gora from the top of Brana.32
Obir and Mrzla gora.33
Mists already above us too.34
Ojstrica and Planjava35
Construction of Noah's ark.36
Most are ringed.37
Brrrrr with Obir.38
The hut is basking in the sun, children on vacation, doors locked.39
Vel'ka.40
In front of foggy Raduha, Krofička and Rjavčki vrh, right...41
...Ojstrica.42
'Mrzlaka' from Kamniško sedlo.43
Peca and Olševa44
Jermanova vrata45
Closed!46
Our today's hill is covered by mists.47
Down by scree express.48
Already more than five years ago it was supposed to be put in the annual repair plan, but when will it be realized??49
Kogel from Jermance.50
Our hill...51
...in front of the inn (Kaptan is the left one, in the shade)52
(+7)like
bos30. 10. 2024 19:16:24
Wonderful youngstersnasmeh, if you invited me, I'd go with you.jezik
(+3)like
lino30. 10. 2024 20:13:11
Tone, with Drago you did a really wonderful path in dream conditions and also took wonderful photos.
Comment to picture 46 is also funny: "Ich verstehe". nasmeh
like
lijaneja30. 10. 2024 21:58:47
If I invited you, you'd ruin our average.nasmeh
We had a really nice day, no one above us in the gully to endanger us and I didn't have the chance to show my new helmetjezik, a bit tight thinking about our poor infrastructure (36, 46, 49), otherwise the day and tour for the gods.
(+2)like
dprapr31. 10. 2024 06:37:56
And did you have a new helmet? I had the old one on this occasion, which is more for decoration. Over 40 years old. nasmeh
(+2)like
lijaneja31. 10. 2024 07:36:38
I think helmet design and age aren't important, but after replacing the backpack that accompanied me for 30 years, I also put the old helmet to rest.
(+2)like
Tomco10. 11. 2025 17:38:05
Brana over Kaptanski ridge, 9.11.2025

Attaching a report on conditions from yesterday's tour, which my colleague and I did.

First off, let me say the tour is a fantasy. De facto realization of dreams for an ambitious mountaineer drawn to some orientation and free climbing.

Bosova graba is dry, even the pitches in shady parts are completely dry. The first pitch is among the harder ones. It's tricky, lacking holds. Another similar one follows, bushes help. Then it's mostly enjoyable. You can always see where it's trodden, and if you know the initial entry to the gully, no major orientation issues ahead. Here I must especially thank Saša for written instructions on orientation in the gully and also the GPX track, which would be backup in case of uncertainty. Without this preparation and plenty of other read material, I wouldn't have ventured on such a tour. Transitions on the ridge are logical. If in doubt anywhere, as previously said, direction is indicated by sawn bushes. We noticed almost no cairns. Climbing isn't too hard, it's enjoyable.

Now to the bad part. All southern approaches and ridges of the mountains have been completely dry for days, without snow remnants. Terrain from below showed no signs of trouble either. Well, towards the top of the ridge, snow started appearing on shady ledges, otherwise non-problematic, but partly frozen. We had winter gear of course, but still didn't smell trouble.

Everything OK until descent from Kaptan to the saddle. There, around the corner in the shade, winter surprise awaited – snowy and frozen. For descent to the saddle we originally planned the eastern bypass, but in these conditions without belay not feasible. So we were forced to downclimb that direct steep gully, which in these conditions wasn't something we wanted to do. "Saved" us crampons and the fact that despite steep descent there are very good holds. Actually one single (though long) move down is trickier there. Below you descend to an overhang, so at least no deep fall towards the valley threatens. Anyway, the whole passage-finding situation wasn't pleasant, that's when dark thoughts of floating alternative crept in... Let me add we weren't first up after last snowfall. There were shoe tracks in snow and predecessor likely used rope on descent at same spot (we saw anchor). So in current conditions, rope with you, no problems.

Further to Brana summit of course no snow trace again. Ironically, for descent from Brana, for which we had winter gear, it wasn't needed. Some icy bits up among rocks, later loose snow. Good boots and slowly, done. Brana summit had some visits.

So yeah, experience with slightly mixed feelings and lesson for future. If not 100.00% sure what can surprise you, tour should have safe bailout option (…bravo, Einstein!… zavijanje z očmi ). Happens to everyone sometimes, maybe overcriticizing myself, dunno. We're all human, luckily my lesson was free.
Gully.1
Snapshot at the exit onto the ridge.2
Another one.3
On the ridge.4
Kaptanska glava summit5
Behind the corner an unpleasant surprise. We both tried to find a safe passage from the east side, but it didn't work.6
Out of trouble. From below we then saw on which ledges (far left?) the passage should go. Descending and looking from above is a different story. In the middle there is a gully up top, down which we descended.7
It gave us wind. From afar it doesn't look bad, but the frozen parts in the rocks can't be seen from afar...8
Beautiful views from the ridge...9
...and also from the top.10
Conditions during descent.11
No crisis.12
O.o13
Picking up crumbs from the table.14
Calm descent.15
(+12)like
lynx10. 11. 2025 22:48:12
Descent is also possible down the ridge towards Jermanci.
(+3)like
Trobec11. 11. 2025 11:36:26
One of my favorite tours in those parts for me, since I "discovered" it it's regularly on schedule, 2-3x yearly. velik nasmeh

First pitch, if you tackle it directly in the middle, I think it's a solid III. But there's a much easier variant just slightly right, where bushes help a lot.

From Kaptanska glava down I almost always go along the ridge. Given the conditions you had, I fully believe that descent wasn't the most pleasant thing.
(+1)like
Tomco11. 11. 2025 18:05:37
lynx, thanks for info, noted.

Trobec, of course we went that first pitch slightly right velik nasmeh

I think we'll return next summer to settle scores with that descent from Kaptan to saddle nasmeh.
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