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Breithorn

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jan712. 07. 2014 14:13:41
I have a quiet wish to head to Zermatt during my summer vacation (presumably second half of August) and first wander a bit on trekking paths around Zermatt, do some ascents on nearby easier accessible three-thousanders, and finally Breithorn tempts me. I have some experience with winter ascents in our mountains, of course not with glaciers.

I'm wondering if it's safe to attempt a solo "ascent" on Breithorn?

I already browsed the net a bit and the price for a guide, for one participant, if you're in a group (random) of 3-6 people, is around 150 Chf. Price isn't low, but that could somehow work, however it bothers me to ascend in a group. If e.g. we found three friends, then it's somehow acceptable to me, otherwise not. The vast majority of ascents in our mountains I did solo, also I don't have some mountain companion who would go with me to the mountains, somehow I'm used to always going alone.

That the starting point for the ascent is the upper station of the gondola "Klein Matterhorn" (for "modest" 99 Chf), I'm somehow digesting, but it seems to me that I'm capable of doing such an ascent solo, as long as there aren't too many objective dangers (glacier crevasses). Otherwise, it's like you can always turn back anytime if you judge you're not up to it, true though that once you're so far from home and so close to the goal, it might be hard to stay objective.

On the net I find various reports and accounts of ascents on Breithorn, from solo ones where they openly mock the guiding and clients on the rope, to those accounts that you simply can't go there alone, without protection.
So, if any of you has been there, your opinion: is it suitable to go solo on Breithorn or is walking on the glacier under Breithorn simply too dangerous and is a rope team necessary?
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urarrr2. 07. 2014 14:53:51
From the gondola to the summit is one to two hours' walk. Depends on acclimatization. Ascent to Breithorn from gondola is pointless. You'll be at the summit before you warm up....

I recommend going to the summit, descending, and then to Pollux, then sleeping in the Ayas hut. You can also traverse Breithorn towards Ayas.

If you go to Ayas, go to Castor the next day.
because it's about 4 hours to Castor summit...

Of course everyone will want you to go with a guide. It's safer.. I myself would never go to Breithorn with a guide..

In case you go to Pollux and Castor, due to the terrain or crevasses a rope team is highly desirable... or I highly recommend it to you...

In case you go alone... mandatory use GPS with return option. In case of clouds the path without it....IMPOSSIBLE

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sla2. 07. 2014 14:56:15
I quickly looked at the photos on: http://www.tejaoman.info/svica_breithorn.htm

Crossing a glacier is always risky, because you can fall into a crevasse. If you've walked on glaciers before, I'd advise you to go solo. If not, better not to overthink it. From the snow structure alone you can somehow guess where a crevasse is, but you can also easily be wrong.
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Janez Seliškar2. 07. 2014 15:58:02
The ascent from Klein Matterhorn to the summit of Breithorn is walking on a glacier, without any technical problems. Due to the danger of glacier crevasses, a rope team of at least 2 (two) hikers is MANDATORY.
The problem is also the extreme crowds, because the first gondola in the morning is packed. A better option is to overnight e.g. in the hut Rifugio Guide de Cervino and ascend to the summit in the morning. Before the first gondola arrives at the upper station, you'll already be far back on the descent.
View to the east, Monte Rosa group1
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jan712. 07. 2014 16:31:30
Thanks for your answers! More heads more knowledge, surely it'll be easier for me to decide.

@Janez: I think I have to agree with your statement that a rope team of at least two hikers is mandatory. The question is whether just hikers without prior knowledge of glacier travel, or should at least one have experience?

I might have a like-minded enthusiast who would go with me, but he has no more knowledge or experience than me. How sensible is such a rope team then? Probably smarter to find a partner with experience-alpinist?

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Flora12. 07. 2014 17:41:01
I haven't walked on this glacier myself, but two years ago I witnessed a fatal accident in Switzerland because someone fell into a glacier crevasse. Then it's quickly clear to you that you'd rather give 300 of your salaries and all your savings for a guide/guides, just to secure your life. And you're still not 100% safe in the mountains. Personally, it doesn't even cross my mind to go unroped on a glacier, everyone does as they like. And one more thing, what's the use if you're just roped, but your buddy rope team doesn't know how to use the gear and act appropriately if it really comes to a slip into the crevasse. You're just creating an illusion of safety in that case. Good luck to you.
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jan712. 07. 2014 18:20:39
After thinking it over, I have to admit you're right!
There's still plenty of time until the planned departure, I'll prepare accordingly.
Thanks again everyone for the answers!
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strelec19542. 07. 2014 19:45:11
Photo taken last August. There were many rope teams, in between also solos....how you will decide...zmeden
I'm having trouble uploading photos, hope it works for me.
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Janez Seliškar2. 07. 2014 21:02:42
To complete my thought. A rope team alone is nothing yet. Without proper knowledge the whole rope team can end up in a glacier crevasse. You need to know rope technique for rescuing the fallen into a crevasse, as well as self-rescue technique from a crevasse.

I don't want to be offensive, but just the desire to be over 4000m is too little, EXCEPT if you hire a mountain guide!
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tol2. 07. 2014 21:16:16
Never go unroped on a glacier.
Guide is the best but also most expensive solution.

The technique itself isn't some hard science and can be learned quickly. Important is that in case of fall into crevasse the pair knows how to react. I suggest arranging a "dry" training with some guide at home, and practice it on some Slovenian snow.

But you know that glacier walking requires both knowledge and gear? You need harness, some karabiners, prusiks and of course rope (length depending on the team)
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felix3. 07. 2014 06:52:23
From the photos you can see the ascent on Breithorn, we went roped, the last ascent is a bit steeper, but very narrow ridge, if you traverse the summit and descend again on the other side (from cable car looking right) from the top. Nice greetings and lots of enjoyment around Zermatt!
Breithorn and Little Matterhorn1
First part of the approach on flat terrain, last part ascent2
Columns towards the summit3
Last steep ascent4
On the ridge5
View from the valley6
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sla3. 07. 2014 08:06:54
The problem is that we Slovenians are mostly too proud to hire a mountain guide. I talked to people who went on the tour with a GV, all confirmed that the guiding is worth its price. GV in their at least 3-year training acquires knowledge to safely accompany their guest on the tour at a high professional level.
Jan - so, if you haven't walked on glaciers yet, boldly take the phone and call one of our GVs :-)
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urarrr3. 07. 2014 13:29:56
@sla

Hi !!!

I agree it's always best to go with a GV, as he's properly trained for it.

But us Slovenians who are mostly too proud also look at the price list. And when we see that a GV can charge us even a month's salary for one day of guiding we start looking for alternatives...

I think there wouldn't be any problems if prices were adjusted to our wallets, but they are adjusted to European ones.

For example a long-time leader of GVs in Slovenia quoted me 600€ plus expenses (gondola plus hut costs are at least another 150€) for a trip to Breithorn and Pollux...

So the guide would cost me 750€....(Breithorn and Pollux) Don't get me wrong, personally I asked him if he has a cleaned attic....

Personally I rate the ascent of Triglav in winter much more demanding than this.

That's why there are so many SLOVENE customers as there are. But I believe their price and service is appropriate for European guides and foreign clients too.

But I don't meddle in their prices, everyone has their own calculations.

It is true that not all GVs are the same... and I hope I didn't offend anyone. Just thinking out loud...

best regards
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Janez Seliškar3. 07. 2014 13:40:25
Last year the Breithorn trip in self-organized mode cost participants exactly 155 EUR.
Guiding is a profession for GVs, not entertainment, just like for their clients.
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urarrr3. 07. 2014 14:20:00
I'll try briefly once...

yes it's always better and especially safer... with mr. guide

but there are normal prices like you wrote Janez and there is exaggeration... believe me few would mess around alone if prices were always like you wrote.


everyone is the blacksmith of their own luck. and everyone decides according to their abilities.

and so there's no mistake, if possible go with GV. so no one thinks I'm against.

from my side that's it and I won't comment anymore.



thanks for understanding
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jan713. 07. 2014 17:08:51
Thanks again to everyone for your opinions. With your help I decided more easily and I'll probably turn directly to local guides, if I manage to pull it off and really get to Zermattnasmeh!
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rezist21. 09. 2014 19:01:48
A few days ago first time above 4000m. Got to the top in a t-shirt. Really crazy good conditions. nasmeh Attaching some photos... The rest you can see at the link: http://matevzlavric.blogspot.com/2014/09/breithorn-4164-m.html

Best, Matevž
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JusAvgustin21. 09. 2014 20:03:38
Congratulations!
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urbancek22. 09. 2014 09:12:58
Great, my praises too!
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ms_primoz22. 09. 2014 09:35:08
Excellent!
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Bojan_A22. 09. 2014 10:38:27
Awesome!

BTW. How much does the gondola cost?
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