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| DarjaZaplotnik28. 06. 2012 22:38:37 |
Eastern, Captain's Ridge on Brana, interesting tour within II. degree (on the ridge also III. possible) today provided wonderful and in places breathtaking views. Especially at places where I wasn't quite sure about the continuous continuation of the ridge.
You leave the path to Kamniško sedlo at Studenec and head towards Bosova grapa, in which you climb the first two jumps, further you keep to the ridgelet left above it. You can get here also via the right entry of Bosova (cairn). The ridgelet/gully then via shorter rocky jumps leads you to the grassy saddle, where you turn right and through introductory scrub climb to the ridge, you climb from tower to tower, only the last one you bypass left through quite friable terrain. Descent from it is a bit awkward, further awaits easier but very crumbly terrain, which then over summit grassy plateaus brings you to the top.
You descend via the normal route to Kamniško sedlo.
Rock on the ridge is mostly OK, in places the tour is quite exposed, also "hairy". Experienced eye will find also some small path.
Nice tour, suitable for experienced mountaineers.
lp d
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| ljubitelj gora19. 07. 2015 17:41:14 |
Today from Kamniška Bistrica and over Captain's Ridge to Brana, almost no cairns. More or less after climbing the gully I stick to the ridge, from the top of Brana I descend to Kamniško sedlo, where I take about 2 hours for rest, then slowly back to the valley.
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| mlubej22. 07. 2015 11:05:06 |
Hi! Can you tell me a bit more precisely where to enter Bosova grapa? Before, after Pastirci and approximately how many (hundred) meters? Thanks, Lp
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| Mali Gobar22. 07. 2015 12:40:32 |
From the classic path the path to Bosova grapa starts where the path turns right upwards towards Pastirci. There you cross Studenec and continue straight up over scree. Watch not to stray too far right into the obvious gully but more left among the pines to the first jump. Then the gully continues very logically to the second jump - there Bosova grapa goes right over the jump, left continues the branch towards Captain's Ridge. The jump can be bypassed on the left variant and return above it to Bosova grapa via scrub (the passage is visible because it's trodden).
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| Guest22. 07. 2015 21:33:06 |
Hello, Mali Gobar gave a very good description. Above the studenec we cross left upwards over the scree towards the gully closed by the first jump. After climbing the jump we follow the gully in nice easy climbing, but only to the next jump, where the gully splits. Left towards the notch in the Captain's ridge and along the ridge to the top of Kaptana, or straight towards Bosova gully. If we want to climb the jump closing the entry to Bosova, just note that it is fairly demanding climbing - recommended belay.
Unfortunately I have only winter photos of Bosova gully, so I am attaching some archive photos from Captain's ridge. Good luck
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| DarjaZaplotnik22. 07. 2015 22:13:55 |
We were at Kaptan in early July. Compared to three years ago, with the exception of the rocky part, it is possible to notice a nicely traceable pathlet (for those who can see it).
But this right entry option, if one is used to easier climbing around. It can just be a bit damp. The crossing back into the gully itself is also not exceptionally difficult... and traces of predecessors over the bush are visible.
best d 
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| ljubitelj gora22. 07. 2015 22:43:32 |
Just about this Teja writes: http://www.tejaoman.info/brezpotje_kaptan.htm, "After initial two jumps modest path leads us left to gully edge, from where through bush we descend into left gully." This is not at the easiest ascent, as we follow only faintly visible steps and during ascent we move left to saddle, then to ridge and try to stay on it all the time. If you make a detour somewhere then as soon as possible back to ridge.
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| alyas24. 07. 2015 06:25:03 |
Well, if even such a sketch/picture helps someone to orient easier at the start ... then boldly on, further the approach is quite traceable
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| JusAvgustin24. 07. 2015 06:58:41 |
give gps track up there...
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| Dr.ejči24. 07. 2015 15:47:35 |
yeaaaaaaa!!!!...that would be totally cool!...so no one accidentally gets lost in gully or on ridge?????
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| korl24. 07. 2015 19:18:05 |
f*ck, could turn to Planjava, what then?
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| Janez Seliškar27. 07. 2015 11:23:54 |
Where else after gully exit, if not right. Right nice friable stuff towards Brana there.
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| mlubej27. 07. 2015 11:39:03 |
Not from the notch onwards, there it's clear. Before you reach Kaptan, from the gully to the top of the ridge, there we had to gnaw branches...
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| Guest27. 07. 2015 12:38:04 |
I agree with Janez. If you go up Bosova gully you reach the notch below Kaptan (notch behind Butar), the demanding Bobnarjev couloir also leads there via the south slope. From the notch left up to Kaptan, but if you turn right, then via easier scree up towards the south ridge of Brana (behind Blek). On the Kaptanski ridge itself we meet bushes only in the lower part before climbing into the ridge and a little before the summit of Kaptana, otherwise we stick to the ridge. Good luck.
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| mlubej27. 07. 2015 13:16:54 |
OK, so we got a bit messed up* Thanks and best
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| Guest27. 07. 2015 13:54:06 |
Well, nothing bad if you got a bit lost. You conquered the peak, explored something new and above all returned safely and soundly to the valley. So the mountain gave you the opportunity in some way to return to its slopes.
Mountains have stood for thousands of years and will certainly stand for at least some more time, so nothing is lost.
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| ljubitelj gora27. 07. 2015 19:01:48 |
Did you reach the saddle and at the saddle turn right on the little path that disappears higher up? Did you go horizontally along the steep slope there?
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