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| SamoK20. 09. 2016 05:48:56 |
All belay devices are perfectly fine, including figure 8, with slight differences in this and that. All this exaggerated emphasis on rope wear etc. is mostly propaganda of manufacturers and equipment sellers.
Use what suits you best.
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| biba20. 09. 2016 08:11:12 |
As SamoK wrote. I just mention that Edelrid has a belay device with auto-block system too. Regards.
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| Zebdi20. 09. 2016 09:20:09 |
I exclusively use GriGri for sport routes. Not that there's anything wrong with the others, but as far as I'm concerned, it's by far the most comfortable to use - from quick rope feeding to when the climber is resting on the route. True, you need to get used to it a bit for dynamic belaying. Some buddies highly praise ClickUp too, which also has the self-locking function.
Figure 8 has the disadvantage that it fuzzes the rope quite a bit, but they used it not long ago even in World Cup competitions.
Regarding excessive rope wear - only one series of reverso was problematic in that regard, which actually destroyed the sheath. That issue was fixed later  But it's true that there have been fatal cases where a worn quickdraw in a fixed system cut the rope on a fall, so it makes sense to check the gear every now and then.
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| Žiga2220. 09. 2016 09:22:14 |
I can confirm this with reverso. After some time a sharp edge formed on the bottom side that was shaving the sheath. I think it was a problem with reverso 4.
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| Smetar20. 09. 2016 12:02:15 |
@Macesna:
If you sport climb then the best are Grigri or CT's ClickUp. I didn't have the chance to test the latter much, because I had to return it to the owner
For multi-pitch routes I use Reverso or ATC Guide (slightly less wear when rescuing the fallen, raise/lower).
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| SamoK20. 09. 2016 16:45:15 |
Smetar, in what sense is Macesni useful info, what do you use?
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| Macesna20. 09. 2016 17:35:15 |
Thanks everyone for precise answers. Yes, I'm asking for short and for multi-pitch (sport) routes. In the mountains I've used Munter hitch so far.
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| Zebdi20. 09. 2016 20:22:16 |
Erm, GriGri is a bit impractical for rappelling. In emergency it works ok, but for multi-pitch routes I would look at other belay devices.
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