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| tol15. 02. 2015 20:06:49 |
In principle any rope is suitable for short and multi-pitch routes.
The one you're looking at is 70 m, which is sometimes good, but you carry more weight.
For multi-pitch twin is better. So 2x60 m thinner ropes. Useful especially for rappels where you do 60 m drop in one go. With 60/70 m rope only half.
Check also singles there 9.2 thickness
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| Busterman15. 02. 2015 21:01:42 |
wanted to write something but tol directly said all I had in mind 
maybe I'd just add that if you really want only one rope that does both, definitely recommend single rope, cuz multi-pitch with single goes great (just watch out no mandatory long rappels). On the other hand friction with twin is more for extreme conditions 
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| Zebdi16. 02. 2015 08:29:48 |
I'd take 70m in your place, thickness somewhere between 9.4 and 9.8 - best compromise. Ultra thin singles shine on really hard sport climbs in long routes where every gram counts, minus is they wear out much faster. We trashed Mammut Serenity (8.9) in Paklenica in one afternoon - true rock is sharp there. Over 9.8 can thicken a bit during use and jam when feeding - even with gri-gri. 70m cuz rope ends wear fastest. Cut few meters each side and use longer, still enough for 30m routes (border for single-pitch sport).
Of course if talking friction and multi-pitch *sport* routes. For alpine definitely twin...
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| Zebdi16. 02. 2015 09:12:47 |
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| palček plezalček16. 02. 2015 23:08:16 |
I agree single rope for sport routes is the law. If on other end of rope not too heavy or strong girl, suggest as thin as possible, cuz with thicker can be backache if leading and pitch long. Pull and pull and barely wait for belay. I use Joker myself, but mentioned Mammut supposed tougher. Mine even held in Paklenica without major damage. Thin rope great, esp for multi-pitch without parking near route start (easier carry ;-). Plenty such in not too far Carnic... and damn nice they are.
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| Zebdi17. 02. 2015 09:13:15 |
Well, Serenity is many things, but definitely not durable Gotta be honest, we were working a 7b in the canyon, for which it's not really intended. But still, those 10-15 falls shouldn't destroy it so...
Anyway, every rope has its own purpose and it's smart to know that when buying. If mostly long sport routes with long approaches and not many falls expected, pick the thinnest. If crags too where lots of falls, thicker (unless maybe no climber over 50kg )
Weight diff not that big - Joker (9.1) and say Classic above (9.8) at 70m just 600g diff. Not noticeable at crags, esp easy routes. I'd say friction felt more when pulling than weight  Price diff not negligible (162 and 97 eur).
So Anže, what routes are you targeting?
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| AnzeKozjek17. 02. 2015 11:06:37 |
First, thanks to everyone for all this useful information!
Targeting longer, multi-pitch, not too hard routes... Enjoyable climbing in the mountains, which feels more like home to me than gym climbing.
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| palček plezalček17. 02. 2015 12:29:10 |
@ Anže; you can't really go wrong whichever you buy. If you go very thin and use GriGri on single-pitch, better the one that's been on sale for years, because suitable from 8.9. I have previous version for 10mm and wouldn't trust it to everyone.
@ Zebdi; but some of us weigh under 50kg
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| Žiga2217. 02. 2015 13:03:35 |
For mountains I use Edelrid Kastrel, 60m, 8.5mm, for crag Edelweiss 9.4mm (can't remember the model unfortunately). Very satisfied with both, they don't fuzz too much. Regarding weight; if you're a mountaineer, a few extra grams won't be a problem, if you're more of a weight freak...
Regarding Reverso I'd warn that I know quite a few cases where Reverso started eating the rope and cutting the sheath due to sharp edges! So better ATC Guide or something similar.
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| Zebdi17. 02. 2015 13:12:55 |
Yes, the Reverso 3 had those problems, on new ones it should be fixed. I have the 2, and won't change it If we're on the topic, the new Grigri also gets those sharp edges. On the old one after 8 years of use I didn't notice them. Damn anodizing...
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| Žiga2217. 02. 2015 13:14:36 |
No, even on the 4 there are these issues. Colleague used it intensively for less than a year and it started chewing the sheath.
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| Zebdi17. 02. 2015 13:35:18 |
Well, doesn't surprise me. I wrote to them about Grigri wear, and they said it's normal wear, if I want I should send it and they'll file the edges.. if I could buy a new 1 somewhere, I'd take it immediately...
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| Žiga2217. 02. 2015 13:39:20 |
Even better than what they told the colleague (above) in the store to take sandpaper himself and sand the edges on the Reverso.
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| Zebdi17. 02. 2015 13:41:53 |
"As an option you can use some fine grit sand paper to smooth down the edges. This is one alternative. A second option is for you to send the GriGri 2 to your local Petzl distributor, You have contacted Petzl America in the USA.
Once received the product will go through a thorough inspection. Our first recourse is repair. So potentially we would file down the edges and send it back. Or if it is a manufacturing defect we will replace it for you."
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| palček plezalček17. 02. 2015 14:32:22 |
@Zebdi: ...yeah gravity....yeah... that's the weird thing that pulls your butt to the ground, if I remember right from school. I've whippered on the rope so many times that I realized it works on me too :P Btw, you still have a fairly new Gri
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| Zebdi17. 02. 2015 15:22:35 |
Hmm, three and a half years. According to Petzl's notion of "normal wear" it should obviously be changed after two years..
Ah yes, gravity.. always provides unforgettable moments
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| Zebdi18. 02. 2015 08:33:28 |
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| Zebdi19. 02. 2015 08:19:51 |
primoza, here you have some more reading on this topic if you're interested:
http://www.saleskiao.com/node/213
Personally I haven't noticed yet that a sharp edge on the GriGri actually destroys the rope faster - I only noticed that an edge formed and that it's sharp For Reverso on the other hand they didn't find very nice words..
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| Macesna19. 09. 2016 23:22:40 |
Hi,
question for those who climb: which belay device do you use in sport routes? My figure 8 is already worn out, but above I read that reverso damages the rope over time. Does anyone have experiences with other tube devices - ATC guide, Mammut wall alpine belay etc.?
Thanks for the advice.
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