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Kopinšek's Path to Ojstrica

voluhar14. 09. 2016 09:01:51

https://tomazsarc.blogspot.si/2016/09/ojstrica-po-kopinskovi-poti-1092016.html

(+3)

redbull1. 04. 2017 07:30:02

31.03.17 From Ojstrica to Turska. From the saddle, precisely from 1850 m onwards due to the south exposure, quite a sinking walk, but only up to the traverse. From there to the summit of Ojstrica, great conditions. To Planjava without issues, if you're not too late there won't be too much sinking. The winter route to Planjava is already bare. In ten days a huge amount of snow has melted. The traverse under Brana is now great for walking. Over the kotliči following my tracks from a week ago. A little snow has melted around the bottomless sinkhole, but the passage over it will take several more weeks, especially now with more minus temperatures forecast in the high mountains. Descent via the gully to the valley.
Report:
http://deyangrm.blogspot.si/2017/03/od-ojstrice-do-turske-310317.html

from the summit of Ojstrica towards Škarje saddle

good conditions from Kamniško sedlo direction to Planjava

snow bridge still well packed (path over the basins)

(+6)

skymark1. 04. 2017 09:49:47

Bravo, Deyko!!
Hats off to the king!

redbull14. 04. 2018 19:36:25

Ojstrica-Planjava (14.04.18)

Kopinšek path has unique base, but it is so iced over that I've never seen such before. No need to make the traverse path, as I climbed straight to the summit via a great gully. Planjava has quite a few threatening seracs. I reached the summit completely on the left side, so it was not dangerous. I descended to Sukalnik, the base was super so I went to the saddle. I descended to Okrešelj (path iced and hard).
The base under my feet was great.

Avalanches block the path to the roof of Planjava, on the left side where it is not visible on the picture is the solution

summit of Planjava, view to the other summit of Planjava

(+17)

skalaš7014. 04. 2018 20:56:41

Nice, what nice.... unique tour and of course pics! nasmeh

Safe steps ahead!

(+3)

garmont15. 04. 2018 12:03:10

Nice, Dejan. If I could, I'd give you two likes. velik nasmeh

(+2)

UROS115. 04. 2018 12:52:11

No hero like YOU. Bravo Dejan! velik nasmeh

lino15. 04. 2018 15:40:07

Bravo, Dejan! You are a demonstrator and instructor of winter ascents. Likes flew to the sky. We all greet you and wish safe and considered step ahead.

MarkoS18. 04. 2018 13:57:06

Nice. As always, redbull's photos are a wonderful glimpse into our mountains in such conditions that aren't feasible for me and many of us.

I know there've been comments on redbull already. At the same time, quite a few people, amid the enthusiasm, also advise safe and thoughtful steps. Despite the undisputed skills, confirmed by all sorts of published ascents, I think at least the rule "not alone in the mountains" isn't without reason, if you handle snowy mountains so well that you ended up where you were at that hour with level 3 avalanche danger. For some things, it's enough they happen just once. I join the others in calling for safe and thoughtful steps.

(+2)

redbull31. 10. 2018 17:59:49

Ojstrica-Planjava (31.10.18)

Overnight from 1800m up it snowed nicely. Crampons needed for Kopinšek these days (north traverse). I was early, topped out at 6.45. Heavenly. Snowy base to Planjava no obstacles, descent to Kamniško sedlo no winter gear needed. Descent to Okrešelj and back to Dom Planincev.

good luck

(+11)

redbull14. 01. 2019 09:06:10

Ojstrica (13.01.19)

Up to the Kopinškova-Škarje junction, the path was quite icy. There may have been footprints, but the wind drifting snow has erased them. From the saddle onwards, there were no tracks at all. I stuck to the line that I know well, as daylight only reached above the notch or before the north traverse. The base was good, just occasional postholing here and there. The traverse without issues, or rather it needs more snow for easier passage. On the other side it was much warmer heading towards Škarje. No tracks, maybe the wind did its work here too. The first part of the descent from Škarje is not so innocent, as there are still plenty of rocks exposed. The morning visitor must have turned back somewhere in the middle, as his tracks ran out. It was a great morning, but there was no time for more.
Good luck

(+5)

redbull4. 04. 2021 10:16:38

Ojstrica-Rjavčki vrh (03.04.21)

Above Klemenča hut the white base starts. It was still fairly stable compared to what waited higher up. Towards the saddle there was quite a bit of sinking in, and only here did the wind pick up a little. Lots of snow, I could say it almost levels with the gully. The sinking was at the limit where I considered turning back. Higher up it was better, especially the north sides were super. The night snowfall blew all the snow to the south sides (read: wind). Nicely filled gully to the summit, I descend via summit-secured Škarje, visiting Rjavčki vrh en route. Snow slabs accompanied me to the valley.

(+11)

garmont13. 07. 2022 18:09:07

Today up Kopinškova, down via Škarje. The fixed protections on Kopinškova are perfect, on the traverse to Škarje via the upper path, one cable is about to give up. velik nasmeh

On return, checked the bivouac under Ojstrica, beer at Jama and down to the valley. nasmeh

Cheers