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| geppo20. 08. 2008 08:05:09 |
Panda!
Check the attached photo. Where the arrow is there were ibex. At least 15 min walk higher there is preduh (barrel) - it's very high! In this broken world and quite steep slopes I wouldn't look for a shortcut there (if it exists??)
LP
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| panda20. 08. 2008 08:40:05 |
Thanks geppo. I don't plan to look for shortcuts at any cost either. Anyway, I plan to go along the marked path from K. saddle over Kotliči to T. gora and down through the gully. The only thing is, I'm thinking if it's possible to go up the scree slope descending from Kotliči to the top without issues or even turn up right earlier to shorten the path a bit. I'm not an avid shortcut seeker off paths. I'm a safe guy used to both pegs and cables. Behind me is also Mrzla gora, where there's quite some free climbing.
Thanks anyway for everything.
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| geppo20. 08. 2008 08:53:25 |
Panda!
Ascent over scree is - you know how!!
Once a buddy on ascent in Turski gully (afraid of pegs and cables) soon joined us and quickly left the scree!
Lp
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| panda25. 08. 2008 13:11:31 |
Yesterday did the mentioned tour. Before entering the climbing part at K. saddle, after thorough consideration, I decided not to risk "my" route over Kotliči via shortcut to Sod without bottom. At the junction I just continued under Brana to the descent into the passage over Kotliči. The passage is quite adrenaline-pumping. Under the towers I checked possible access via gully and found that it could work a bit via shortcut with some climbing (in my assessment nothing more than poor 2). But the path to the top of the gully isn't negligible time-wise - how much time I'd save, I don't know. Maybe nothing. Also on the grassy terrace before ascent to Sod without bottom one could climb midway up the gully here, but for that feat you need quite some "balls" and experience, as there's quite a bit of scree on all these ledges and quite some rocky jumps, and steep too (here probably could gain about 1.5 good hours). In short, ascent through Sod without bottom excellently secured, onward path to T. gora top is a walk. After snack and 1.5 hour break descent through Turski gully. Damaged cables replaced, still quite some snow and probably will remain. Descent via Fischauf and well-deserved Zelenec and mushroom soup (they have good). Descent to car under Rinka just formality. For the whole tour used about 10.5 hours.
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| geppo25. 08. 2008 13:28:26 |
You decided correctly - already on the main path there are quite some pegs and cables (so no need to look for additional difficulties..) We even detoured to Brana in between and I was quite tired after finishing the path!!
Lp
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| IvoŠ25. 08. 2008 20:19:40 |
Thanks "panda" for the welcome news about replaced cables in the gully!
The old ones gave me quite some adrenaline when I did this tour in reverse.
The path over Kotliče is phenomenal, unforgettable!
At Okrešelj all food is excellent, especially the vamps were good!!
Full praise and thanks to Jure, Bele, Rok, Mirjam and others for the unforgettable week I spent at Okrešelj!
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| IvoŠ25. 08. 2008 20:27:48 |
I forgot to mention my friend "Tonči" who didn't let me sleep hahaha
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| marea26. 08. 2008 06:41:31 |
My dear will take me on Saturday, if the weather is nice, for the first time properly into the high mountains. I've only been to Kamniško sedlo from Okrešelj. The first time I was quite scared. We'll go from Okrešelj up the Turski žleb, to Turska gora, then via Kotliči to Kamniško sedlo. I bought a helmet, via ferrata set and happily to the mountains.... I still can't sleep at night from excitement and when I have time I browse here on the site and examine the routes in detail..
..whether I'll be a mountaineer or not time will tell...
...the mountains have tempted me all my life and with awe and respect I'm heading among those beautiful walls... keep your fingers crossed for me and when I return I'll surely write something.. I certainly won't be indifferent..
..that's how it is when a Primorje woman of middle years goes for the first time somewhere where before by my standards only the chosen went.. and thanks to my dear one who describes with such passion the feelings he experiences up there under the clouds... I wouldn't miss that for any money..
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| panda26. 08. 2008 07:52:50 |
A bit (too) bold decision for first high mountains. Some questions arise:
-do you know how to use the via ferrata set properly;
-do you have enough fitness,
-do you have enough experience.
Not that I'd underestimate your experience, since I see you have plenty of will. But still the tour is quite demanding for a beginner (even Kotliči and Sod brez dna are no child's play). I'd rather advise Brana over the saddle or maybe Ledinski vrh from Okrešelj. Also Ojstrica from Podveža isn't bad. Anyway, you've decided yourselves. I can only say: GOOD LUCK!
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| Sam.volk26. 08. 2008 11:43:05 |
Dear Marea, congrats on being enthusiastic for your first high mountain tour. Just your dear doesn't know how to choose a beginner's tour. But I wish you safe steps. Regards Franc
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| geppo26. 08. 2008 12:51:01 |
Marea!
We did this path (excluding ascent to Brana) 4 experienced and fit hikers, cca. 6h. We didn't use self-belaying and were quite fast (start cca. 5:45 - Okrešelj - gully - Turska - Kamniško sedlo cca. 11:00). In the description above I wrote - well secured and maybe quite demanding! I don't want to spoil your enthusiasm which you described so nicely.
If you were >quite< scared on the path to Kamniško sedlo - here it will probably be much more. And I'd warn you both about TIME!! - if you clip in for the first time (which is right, that you will!) you'll take much more time than us..
There are no huts from Okrešelj to Kamniško sedlo - weather must be sure, so no afternoon thunderstorm catches you!
I'd also suggest a shorter variant for start (I don't know how fit you are) and train self-belaying well and then a longer and more demanding path.
I hope I didn't spoil your joy - I wrote what I think and what I gathered from your description.
Otherwise - we'll wait with interest for your report and good luck..
Regards
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| sam-zee26. 08. 2008 15:23:35 |
Well, I did the same as your dear, marea. I took my chosen one and also my sister-in-law on the mentioned tour, which was the first high mountain experience for both (after all, it was for me too a couple years before ). Without self-belaying and also without helmet. Stupid, I know, but back then I was still young (and dumb). The path is super. True, it can scare you, but only in the gully, which looks scary at first glance, but nothing to fear. The path is well described here. On PZS forum I also saw that the cables are already repaired. Start early, safe steps and no fear, it'll be fine! Survive the gully, then the "enjoyment" begins, especially Kotliči are great.
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| sam-zee26. 08. 2008 15:26:14 |
Self-belaying though for hikers with at least some experience in my opinion isn't necessary. Check out this debate too.
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| marea26. 08. 2008 17:31:48 |
Big thanks to all for the detailed replies and trip reports.. it helps a lot.. now I'm even more scared.. hehe.. luckily I'm more cheeky by nature and like to laugh.. at myself.. especially at my little fear...
..but I realize the seriousness of all this and take responsibility for my decisions.. nobody's forcing me.. but I want it already..
..my fitness? ...hm ..not exactly brilliant.. every third Sunday I hop to Slavnik .. twice a week a bit of cycling... some day I run a kilometer or three... some pilates.. and that's it.. oh.. some Sunday you catch me in some wall at Črni Kal, where I struggle with a 4 or 5... I'm louder than the birds around.. but more because that's me.. sharing feelings with the world... whether needed or not.. to the mountains we go like this.. the day before in the afternoon to Okrešelj.. sleep there. and from there the next day do the planned tour.. mainly because of work weekends and such that prevent going more often..
I'll give what was written to my guide to read.. and see what he says.. interests me.. he's an experienced hiker with good fitness.. at least that..
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| geppo26. 08. 2008 18:59:41 |
Marea!
If you struggle with 4 or 5 in rock then you torment us also with this - BUY A SELF-BELAYING SET FOR THIS TOUR AND AWAIT IT WITH AWE AND RESPECT!!
Cheekiness and witty mockery save for your dear one who will take you to the mountains...
Regards
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| Griha26. 08. 2008 20:15:50 |
Don't exaggerate. I did this path with my parents when I was 12 years old. Without helmet, self-belaying, softshell, trekking poles and energy preparations. Back then hiking habits were different than now but still... For a young woman in her best years, who recreationally does sports, even sport climbing, fully equipped (with helmet and via ferrata set), who often browses the forum and advice and lessons from up-to-date forumers and accompanied by a fellow mountaineer, reeeally no reason to dissuade from this path, which is simply wonderful! But choose a really nice day or best divide the tour into two days, e.g. first day (afternoon) to Okrešelj, next day the mentioned tour with early start. Carefully and boldly, and it'll be fine!
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| marea26. 08. 2008 20:18:17 |
Thanks, Griha, and I really apologize to everyone I've tortured in any way... nice regards
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| Sam.volk26. 08. 2008 21:12:15 |
Hey Marea, I'm disappointed in you. Lp Franc
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| panda27. 08. 2008 07:53:37 |
Marea: You fooled us well! It's understandable that someone asking how and what about a route they want to hike/climb takes the questions seriously. Not making fun of us and asking "what are the apples like", the price is right above them. Still, enjoy the tour.
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| sam-zee27. 08. 2008 12:12:53 |
This one is really good, yeah. I just collect advice, but apparently I have 3x less fitness and climbing experience. My only advantage (over marea) is that I've done this tour 2x. Marea, leave the self-belay kit at home, it will only hinder you.
Griha, I partly agree with you, but you never know who's reading and asking, so better to warn extra. Obviously you don't know fear, me neither (talking about the gully and similar paths), but I've seen it many times with my companions and you don't root it out just like that. Our comments were also encouraging and no one discouraged this path. Of course you can do all paths without a helmet too (I'll ignore other things...), but once is enough for a rock to hit your head. I too hid from rockfall during one of my two traversals of Turski žleb, which two guys above me were happily dislodging. No helmet then. Not anymore today.
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