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Montaz via Findenegg Couloir

Filip_Culjak3. 01. 2020 09:35:57

On Monday, 30.12.2019, we set out on the ascent to Montaž through the Findenegg glacier. Pictures and description at the link: Winter Montaž through Findenegg glacier

Best wishes to both of you nasmeh

On Sunday, 29.12.2019 at 22:00 we arrive in the winter room of Koča Brazza where we will overnight

Start shortly before 6 o'clock, we greet the dawn a few hundred meters below Škrbina Vrh Strmali

Zigzagging on ski tracks towards the notch

We are heading there towards the Stolp at Vrh Strmali

Short descent at the place where there is a rope in summer due to drift

The gully that leads to the start of Velika polica

Flat section at the beginning of Velika polica

In winter Velika polica is one big traverse with a nice slope

We do not go to the Suringar bivouac, we head a little earlier directly upwards towards Findenegg

The winter variant goes into the right gully

Narrow right fork of the Findenegg ozebnik

The steepness increases, but the snow is ideal for making steps

At the exit there is some breakable crust snow, so very carefully

On the northern side of the ridge there are huge cornices, so do not walk close to the edge

The two of us at the summit of Montaž. No cross or Deffarjeva bells, there is really a huge amount of snow

The ridge towards Pipanova lestev is currently very dangerous

A little more and we reach the end of Velika polica.

Small footbridge where there is a rope in summer.

We are at Škrbina Vrh Strmali with a view of the wonderful western colors. The descent to Sella Nevea follows.

(+14)

redbull3. 01. 2020 10:49:02

Filip, Tomi, outstanding tour.
Good luck

(+3)

Filip_Culjak3. 01. 2020 10:59:43

Thanks Deyan nasmeh

same to you!

haridautovic27. 06. 2022 14:22:19

26.6.2022 I learned that the normal route to Montaž is closed right below the saddle under Montaž. Oh well, I thought, too late for a plan change, as there are also less normal routes, I pick the only possible one via Findenegg glacier. On the way I peek into Suringar bivouac and 300m almost on all fours crawl to the summit. On arrival, classic: summit immediately fogs over and stays that way for quite a while. Normal route via Pipan ladder closed until 15.7.2022, curiosity didn't let me rest and I went to check what was happening. Nice surprise: new ropes installed all the way to Pipan ladder, old Pipan already cleared to scrap metal, new one being installed. At ladder exit route slightly changed: not over scree but direct over rocks secured with new rope and pegs. Since can't go down Pipan, I go along ridge towards top of hill and on steep grasses and multitude of ibex descend to Pecol.

Where there is nutella there is also the master to wrap it

Since my little roses weren't there, I admired the mountain ones

Suringar bivouac at 2430 m, Strma peč in the background

The weather is magical all the way to the summit

The sun will shine on the other side too

This one has rested here too long already

(+7)

trdi27. 06. 2022 15:01:07

Did they maybe secure something else along the way on this path to the top of the hill, at least that notch a bit further from the ladder, where you have to kinda jump and there's a drop on both sides? Because many go up Pipanova then down past the top of the hill...

haridautovic27. 06. 2022 17:32:00

Nothing is secured yet, this jump bugs me too, I always think the rock below on the path won't hold my clumsiness velik nasmeh

(+1)

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Montaz via Findenegg Couloir