Montaz via Findenegg Couloir
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| velkavrh16. 08. 2012 18:55:12 |
Urbanček, I believe you enjoyed it. This wonderful area and mountains above Planina Pekol started attracting me last year and I'll try to go to some Špik this year too. Our group didn't go to the bivak, but turned into the glacier. I see you spiced up Montaż a bit - nice.
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| Keko10. 09. 2012 17:48:14 |
Yesterday my better half and I, as part of a group of 15 hikers, went on a very interesting tour over Findenegg Glacier to Montaż and descent via Pipan Ladder and Ferrata Leva back to Pecol. To make sure the group wasn't pure Upper Carniolan, three Styrians joined it somehow. The tour was a continuation of last year's, which went via Ceria Merlone path and it was already agreed then that we'd continue this year. Soon after start we were already in the land of countless ibex, as they accompanied and watched us along the whole path. When we entered the rocks we quickly found ourselves in quite a steep world and there was no talk of any anchors. When we turned right before Bivak Suringar, the rock became our only friend, which we clung to more and more desperately, as the wall became steeper and the views back deeper. The difficulty through the glacier was somewhat harder than expected, as comments mention only first and partly second grade climbing. There were several members in the group who had already climbed Slovenska via north face of Triglav and all agreed that they are completely comparable in difficulty and that there's even more climbing on this one. Since Slovenska is known for second and third grade climbing, probably this one is somewhat underestimated in comments, or so it seems to me. Otherwise the rock is quite good and climbing is real pleasure and didn't pose special problems to anyone. At the top of Montaż huge crowds, mainly Kekci and blaring Slovenian songs, so we already felt we missed the mountain and country. Path to Pipan Ladder already icy in places, so need to be really careful. On the ladder one-way traffic down with queue. Ferrata Leva nice ledges, passages, very well protected and extremely nice path, to which we dedicated another hour of martinčkanje under scree on grass and warm sun that accompanied us yesterday on the whole path. Really nice tour, varied and composed of unprotected climbing to very well protected Ferrata Leva, medium difficulty.
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| Boštjan MK10. 09. 2012 18:17:08 |
Nice, Keko! I'm missing only Leva, but time will come... Oh, did you perhaps see four fast Zasavci? They had the same tour, but skipped martinčkanje and rather stopped at Brazza for a beer.
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| klm10. 09. 2012 18:56:28 |
In recent years the same applies to Montaz as to Triglav: in the Western Julians it has practically the same status, but due to Slovenian "daytripper" pilgrims it's worth visiting only from October onwards.
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| Keko10. 09. 2012 19:29:13 |
"Boštjan MK" we met a lot of Slovenians, maybe those four were among them. We stopped for beer on the Slovenian side in a traditional inn.
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| nadap10. 09. 2012 20:11:15 |
Interesting, crowd on Montaž ..... 3.7, when the two of us went to Montaž we spent the whole day with ibexes that just wouldn't leave us, we met no hikers. Maybe due to the forecast of bad weather, but it held and the view was good too. On the Pipan ladder real enjoyment as no one chased us  I somehow can't imagine today's crowds 
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| janez.novak10. 09. 2012 21:26:45 |
I would have one question: how would you compare by difficulty the Findenegg glacier with the path to Mrzla gora from Mrzli dol? Thanks for the answer.
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| viharnik10. 09. 2012 21:48:18 |
Findenegg glacier is certainly more demanding due to the loaded cluttered intermediate sections between the ledges which follow each other. There's also some falling stones, NW shady side which dries slower when wet. Approach to Mrzla gora is also quite exposed, however rock fragmentation here is much greater, rock is compact, solid. At Montaž occasionally something remains in hands.
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| IgorZlodej3. 07. 2015 08:12:11 |
Path to entry and further through glacier without peculiarities. Likewise no peculiarities on descent via Pipan ladder, except somewhere the already mentioned twisted steps on the ladder
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| Irina27. 09. 2015 22:19:31 |
Congratulations to both teams (tinky + Todi) climbers for the ascent and thanks for sharing the ascent with photos with us. Good luck! Today we stayed much, much lower and discovered hidden paths and waterfalls in the area of Sočerge, Sokoličev, Oliki ... etc. Wild and untouched! Instead of ibexes, wild boars, a fox and tits crossed our path.
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| tinky28. 09. 2015 09:36:38 |
Vesna, thanks for the congrats. The team is the same
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| Todi23. 10. 2018 22:22:41 |
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| malimiha24. 10. 2018 09:12:38 |
Nice . Congrats to everyone
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